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Car WONT run after doing 6 bolt swap HELP!!!!!

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Mzderrick04

Probationary Member
22
0
Aug 3, 2004
West Columbia, South Carolina
My husband just got done doing the 6 bolt swap in his 95 GSX, but now the car will not crank......It is turning over, getting fuel and fire, but it won't start.....if anyone has any ideas what it might be can you PLEASE help us out?????

Thanks
Robin
 
since it's craking, check your compression and maybe try checking your timing. while you're at it you might want to double check and make sure that EVERYTHING is hooked up. are your coils plugged in? transistor unit? injectors? yadda yadda..... make sure everything is hooked up. do that then let us know what happens. give us a little more info and we can help better! good luck for now, :thumb:
 
Everything is plugged up......the compression on the pistons is great....we going to switch the coil pack out....we are thinking that it may not be firing properly......I'll let you know what we find out...Thanks
 
WE need more info,like a checklist.Did he do the injector trigger swap ,or swap the coil wires? I just spent my whole summer doing a 6 bolt swap and everything that could have went wrong did.So im here to help. Double check everything is plugged in everywhere! Go to http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions1.htm and make sure the diagrams look like this. The first time i started my 6bolt my timing teeth jumped so after getting a new tensioner i got it to start only after doing the wire swap at the ecu and the coil wires being swapped.Also the CAS in the middle position to start out with.MAke sure CAS is installed in the right position and not 180 out.This will cause it not to start in some cases also.Let me know what you find out and if you have any more questions, Travis
 
if its definitely getting fuel, try messing with the spark plug order. cylinders 1 & 4 have to be on the same coil, and cylinders 2 & 3 have to be on the same coil. Switch them around a bit and see if it starts. If it still doesnt start, check the cas. Put the engine at TDC, The two little holes or indentations on the cas should match up.

Also, do you have dsmlink or did you do the right injector wiring switching to invert the cas signal?
 
Ok....the car started and ran for 138 miles and then started making a noise....checked the timing and everything was fine....we went to re-time it to make sure and now the crank won't turn.....can you possibly give me an idea before we pull it out and junk this motor?

Robin
 
can you tell us what the noise sounded like maybe?
and what do you mean the crank wont turn? as in the engine is locked up? or it wont turn over/crank to start?

how did you get it to start in the first place? give us some more info. :thumb:
 
When you go to turn the crank manually you can't turn it.....We finally got it to start the last time by swapping the coil pack and chaning the firing order.....the noise was a hollow noise...thought that it might be something in the head but it wasn't...the head looked fine when we took the valve cover off.....i guess we are going to pull the pan and see if it was a rod or something....we have had bad luck with the rods and bearings in this car...but thought it was fixed when we got a new motor.....if this motor has spun a bearing then i just might talk my husabnd into selling it....this is the 2nd motor and the 5th re-build....any ideas of how the 4g64 does in these cars???? That might be the next move if we keep it.....

Robin
 
Ok, its time to re-open a new post.

I have a 95 gsx that I just put a 6 bolt motor in(1g head, intake, tb, 2g coil pack and ptu).
I have the 91 CAS with the RRE wiring harness. It wouldn't start unless I put the wires in some weird order. It is usually 4-1-2-3 but, I did it some other way and it ran for like two minutes and you heard some weird misfiring. I know the CAS in not 180 degs out and checked just about everything I could think of. Please let me know if any plugs or wire need to be swapped. Oh yeah, I did a compression test - the results were 4(130), 3(130), 2(130), and 1 (120). Before I put the head back on to the block I checked and things look right. I put a MLS head gasket with arp head studs properly torqued. The timing marks line up right everytime on the cams. Please let me know what I need to do. My only other option right now is to pull the motor and spend +$2000 to rebuild this sucker. Let me know....
 
our engines use waste spark. maening cylinders 4 and 1 fire at the same time and 2 and 3 fire at the same time. try switching 4 and 1 with the 2 and 3 wires and see what that does.
you can either try that or you can swap the injector wires at the ecu....
 
u6t9 said:
our engines use waste spark. maening cylinders 4 and 1 fire at the same time and 2 and 3 fire at the same time. try switching 4 and 1 with the 2 and 3 wires and see what that does.
you can either try that or you can swap the injector wires at the ecu....

I don't understand this last part. "Swap injector wires at the ecu" Can you explain alittle bit more for me. Thanks.
 
The injector firing order is to help smooth out the operation of your car. I tried it both ways to see the difference and after the swap, my car started up easier and just overall ran better.

If you are using RRE's method 2 for your 6-bolt swap (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96M2.htm) then you should to the injector wire swap as well

From the ECU:
Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15

i copied and pasted what a wiseman on here wrote.... :thumb:
 
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