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New car. Someone elses problems!!!

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Esibnitsud

15+ Year Contributor
185
0
May 18, 2004
Spokane, Washington
Ok, I have a few problems with my new car. First...

Updated at last post.

While under motion, there is a loud ticking that varies with the speed of the car coming from the back left. I tried to make a sound recording of it but had no luck.

The belt coming of the alternator is all ripped up on the left side. I think that is the squeling noise heard in the sound clip. When I turned off the car there was a wierd hiss coming from around the intake manifold. I have no idea what it might even possibly be. The oil cap has been leaking a little, but thats no big deal.

As I start the car, the CEL light comes on for about a second, and when flooring it the CEL comes on occasionaly. Also, while flooring it, there is a slight grind going into second gear.

How hard is it to change the belt on the alternator?

Only other thing I was wondering is... is there a way to have a shop run a diagnostic on the car and find out most of the problems? If so, how much do they run?

So much angst, I guess problems are easier to spot once you get the car home. So glad I finally have a DSM though.

BTW, Compression was 147, 148, 151, 155
 
Esibnitsud said:
Only other thing I was wondering is... is there a way to have a shop run a diagnostic on the car and find out most of the problems? If so, how much do they run?


Yes, you need to go to autozone and have them pull the CEL codes, and post them here, then some of the guru's can help you out more.
 
Is it ok to drive it there with that belt squeling and such? I have a sound clip, but my FTP is down. If you msg me on AIM (Esibnitsud) I can send it to you.
 
Esibnitsud said:
Is it ok to drive it there with that belt squeling and such?

Depends on how far youre driving. Worse case scenario, the pulley chucks the belt, which also runs the water pump, and you have to drive on battery for a bit. If its only a few blocks, then youre ok, just get a new belt when you get there, since the old one is coming apart anyway. Check the old one and see if its the wrong size.
 
Well, there is no autozone here, and I called a couple places and they said the couldnt do it. Im gonna look for a local shop that can do it and I will report back. Any idea what the other thigns could be without knowing the CEL codes?
 
Ill try.

Esibnitsud said:
While under motion, there is a loud ticking that varies with the speed of the car coming from the back left. I tried to make a sound recording of it but had no luck.

Back of the car, or back of the engine bay? Ive heard of Eclipse's having rear wheel bearings go out, but thats not a ticking noise, as far as I know.

The belt coming of the alternator is all ripped up on the left side. I think that is the squeling noise heard in the sound clip. When I turned off the car there was a wierd hiss coming from around the intake manifold. I have no idea what it might even possibly be. The oil cap has been leaking a little, but thats no big deal.

Does the car have aftermarket pulleys? They have been known to make belts squeal, and if the wrong size belts are supplied, then thats even worse, leading to squeal, and belt destruction. If its the stock pulleys, Id just replace the belts. If you drive the car hard, and then turn it off, you will hear a whine. That is the ecu adjusting itself, and cooling off. Get a new oil cap now, or you will start getting oil in your #1 spark plug.

As I start the car, the CEL light comes on for about a second, and when flooring it the CEL comes on occasionaly. Also, while flooring it, there is a slight grind going into second gear.

Hard to tell this w/o the CEL codes. About the grind, push the clutch all the way to the floor on the 1-2 shift. ALL the way. Also, shift 1-2 at 5800 for the best results.

How hard is it to change the belt on the alternator?

Requires you to undo the bolt on the tensioner I believe. Not hard, just a PITA.

Your compression sounds great, welcome to the DSM community. Hope I helped.
 
Esibnitsud said:
very much, thanks for the replies.


Not a problem. About the 5800 1-2 shift point, disregard that, thats for a n/t. But still, clutch all the way in, youll get used to it.
 
Esibnitsud said:
The belt coming of the alternator is all ripped up on the left side. I think that is the squeling noise heard in the sound clip. When I turned off the car there was a wierd hiss coming from around the intake manifold. I have no idea what it might even possibly be. The oil cap has been leaking a little, but thats no big deal.

Make sure the belt hasn't jumped so that it's rubbing against the timing belt cover. Also, when you have the belt off of there, check the crank pulley to make sure it's still in one piece (if you have a 2g, I don't think that's a problem in 1g's).
 
Yea, its a 1g. Anyways, I just took it in to a local shop that will do a free diagnostic on it. They even gave me a ride home/will pick me up when its done. Ill keep the thread updated as I get more info.

Edit: Since its not worth starting a thread over.. I am really enjoying this car allready! Its fun (and easy) to drive and just feels likea good fit for me. Yea I bet that i didnt have the clutch ALL the way in while shifting into second, ill keep that in mind, thanks.
 
UPDATED. I cant really do much work on the car cause i dont have a manual yet, but i plan to get one on monday.

The diagonostic returned this... I dont know what is a rip/joke and what isnt. Looks like i need some new axels and a few small parts. Can i get a link to for how to do a leak test so i can see where the leak is?

Recomended services
-------------------------
Battery has boiled over (i think this one is wrong, cause i had used a steel brush to get the corosion off the terminals, then i but some white lightning on it), Front U-joints are bad, Left front CV axel is bad damaged, Left front bearing assembly is loose, Left rear wheel baearings are bad, power steeting rack is leaking, turbo is leaking, oil pan gasket is leaking, there is excessive blow bye in the intake manifold, valve cover gasket is leaking,
Recomend new motor and parts.


Now... help me sort through this...
Power steering rack is leaking (new power steering pump form the junkyard?)
Left front beaing assembly is loose (can is be repacked, what part is this specifically)
Turbo is leaking... im not to sure about this one, does it mean the turbo itself is bad, or could they mean that there is a leak somewhere in the turbo?
There is excessive blow-bye in the intake manifold. What does this mean/need to be fixed.
Valvle cover gasket is leaking (not sure about this either, I did do a compression check and the car had great compression all around (150 +- 5)


There is also a small problem with the altrenator. Apperantly, there is a loose wire that sometimes looses contact and arks. The belt is also in need of replacement, as i was driving to get coffee today, I noticed my radio would turn off when I hit the breaks. I figured it was prob the alternator acting up so i pulled over and got out. When i tried to start the car back wouldnt start (or turn over). So i am guessing my alreantor wire either fell off, or the altrenator is fried. With a jumpstart would i be able to drive like 3 miles to get the car back to my place? Also, what safety proceders do i need to do when reataching the wire to the alternator?
 
Easy leak down testing:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97401


Give me a minute to sort through the rest of your post, and reply to what I can.

Edit: Whoa dude. The rules say you shouldnt guess when replying to stuff like this, and Ill admit it, Im not sure how to help you on some of that. Ill have to defer to one of the 1g turbo experts on this one. Sorry I cant help you more. :(
 
A boiled battery has nothing to do with your clean terminals. The reason this happened is because your alternator is fried. The arcing is what boiles a battery. (done quite a bit of that myself) Replace both battery and alt. Fix the loose wire before you even start it again. Youve probably got tons of miles on it too huh? Youll need to replace both front drive shafts from the sound of it. They include the CV joints. All bearings will need to be replaced. Start with the fronts. You can replace the steering rack with a junkyard one over there at like Spaldings but good luck, I could never find any dsm parts over there. Try Whiteys over on east Francis. Pull n Save would be a hopeless endevor aswell, thier stuff gets straifed quik. Chances are the turbo leak refered to was a fluid leak from the fittings where the oil and coolant enter and leave. Oil pan leak is nothing, verry easy to replace. Disconnect the exaust and there it is. I know a guy who lives over there that works on cars for a living from his yard. I m sure he'd give you a good deal and help you find parts. PM me for more info
:dsm: mike
 
Ok, todays events. Car died at coffee shop (alternator went tottaly.) There was a bit of power steering fluid on the power steering pump to. So i went on a pilgramage to pull and save (local junkyard) and got get this... alternator (working) and a power steering pump) off a 90 eclipse that had a timing belt go out on it. 21 dollars.! So tongiht i took out the battery (it had indeed boiled some) then set in on removing the old alternator and steering pump. I took a little work but i got it done. Tommorow i will be putting the new ones in, along with new belts for all of it.

All the other problems still remain, but 2 almost down, alot to go.

What do u guys think about getting raxels?
 
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