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Upgraded my rotors, pads, and lines. Blead the system and still no brake pressure.

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JNZTRBO

15+ Year Contributor
33
0
Aug 23, 2003
I recently put on Brembo slotted rotors, PBR pads(I think), and stainless steel brake lines. Everything went on ok. We blead the system, and had no brake pressure. We blead the system again, and still the same thing, no brakes. I pumped the brakes 5-8 times, and got a little pressure, just enough to sop the car with the pedal down to the floor. What do you think is wrong? Thanks.
 
I would suspect that you have (A) a leak in the hydraulic system, (B) bad brake master cylinder, or (C) air in the brake system,

Did you have this problem before your brake job? If not, did the problem start right after the brake job? If yes, you may very well have a brake system leak.

Are you absolutely positive that you bled the brakes correctly and that your brake system is completely free of air?
 
Yea, started right after the install of the new parts. So I was thinking it wasnt the master cly. I checked all the lines and nothing is leaking. Can I still have a leak somewhere?
 
What technique did you use to bled the brakes? Did you use a brake bleeding contraption or did you do it manually? If you do it the old fashioned way, it's rather easy to get air trapped in the system. You might want to bleed the brakes again...starting with the passenger side rear, then driver's side rear, then passenger side front and then finally driver's side front. And when you press on the brake pedal to bled the system, make sure you do it s-l-o-w-l-y.
 
hey same thing happend to me the other day when i had to put a new caliper and breaks on so i had to

pump the brake till it was hard and hold it in dont let off at all

losen the bleader screew just a little just for bubles and air to come out

tightin it up and do the same over agine 4or 5 times on each break that you replaced

i hope that helps you

but make sure you dont let of the break till all the air and bubles are out then make sure you tighten it down good then let off and do the next break
 
And make sure you have brake fluid in the master while doing this. Running a master cylinder dry will damage it.
 
doing it manually requires two people. one on the brake and one at the wheel. Push and hold the pedal while opening the bleader valve. before letting off the pedal you must close the valve so as not to let the air suck back in. best works if the system calls go "down", open valve, let bleed, close valve,"up", "down", open valve, and so on. util you know that you have replaced the fluid in the the entire line. :rolleyes:
:dsm: mike
 
realhp=turbo said:
doing it manually requires two people.

Not necessarily. I've done it by myself by attaching suitably sized tubing to the open bleeder screw and immersing the other side of the tubing in a container already containing brake fluid.

Sure, it can be a pain in the butt because you have to keep getting out of the car to check the master cylinder level and to check that the fluid coming out of the caliper bleed screw is free of air. And yes, you waste a bit of brake fluid doing it this way, but it can be accomplished.
 
dogpoop said:
Not necessarily. I've done it by myself by attaching suitably sized tubing to the open bleeder screw and immersing the other side of the tubing in a container already containing brake fluid.

Sure, it can be a pain in the butt because you have to keep getting out of the car to check the master cylinder level and to check that the fluid coming out of the caliper bleed screw is free of air. And yes, you waste a bit of brake fluid doing it this way, but it can be accomplished.

You, my friend, are more tenatious than I. I would rather just have someone help me. But thats a good idea :thumb:
 
realhp=turbo said:
You, my friend, are more tenatious than I. I would rather just have someone help me. But thats a good idea :thumb:

Most of my friends shouldn't be allowed to own screwdrivers, much less work on brake components -- if you get my drift.
 
Noone has mentioned it, so I will.

The car should be running when you bleed the brakes. Also, the chance of a bad master cylinder is likely if you pump the pedal and have pushed it beyond the normal range of motion for the car. At it wears inside the seal seats in a small area of the cylinder. when pushed too far it can damage that seal.

Rich
Forced 4 :dsm:
 
I can't tell you why, but I can tell you that if you read the shop manual for this vehicle, it will tell you that it should be idling.

I work in a shop, and I have seen this first hand. I do not work on the cars myself but I have found this out... I did, however, replace all 4 calipers on my 95GSX and bled the brakes according to that manual and had NO problems with pressure.

Rich
Forced 4 :dsm:
 
Forced4 said:
I did, however, replace all 4 calipers on my 95GSX and bled the brakes according to that manual and had NO problems with pressure.

Rich
Forced 4 :dsm:

I've bled the brakes twice on my car without the engine running and I've had no problems with pressure either.

Perhaps if the engine is running, less brake pedal effort is required? Whatever the reason, I seriously doubt that having the engine off or idling really makes any significant difference.
 
I jsut know that Mitsubishi says it should be running. I don't care how you do it. I am just trying to let you know the "right way". Either way, it's your car, not mine. As for my car, I do it the right way to avoid problems. I feel it's easier to determine what went wrong when you know the proceedure was done correctly.

Just another 2 cents
Rich
Forced 4 :shhh: :dsm:
 
Belive it, he speaks the truth. I didnt belive it at first so I consulted the almighty Chiltons and sure enough it says to let the car idle while bleeding the brakes. Step number 3. I personally have been working on cars for the better pert of thirteen years and have never heard of it. Guess you learn something new everyday. :rolleyes:
:dsm: mike
 
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