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Wacked Gauges???????

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wannyGSX

15+ Year Contributor
82
1
May 6, 2004
Avondale, Arizona
:dsm: I just bought a 91 GSX. It has had an enine swap done. By the last owner after he blew the orignial one. Besides the point. The check engine light came on when i was driving it home. It seems to come on and off when im driving it. While i'm driving it the Tach and boost gauges are all over the place yet it seems to drive alright, the speedodometer works fine. every once in a while it will like cut out not die just like hesate then continue to build boost. I don't have a scan tool and can't really afford to pay someone to fix it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. :dsm:
 
wannyGSX said:
:dsm: I just bought a 91 GSX. It has had an enine swap done. By the last owner after he blew the orignial one. Besides the point. The check engine light came on when i was driving it home. It seems to come on and off when im driving it. While i'm driving it the Tach and boost gauges are all over the place yet it seems to drive alright, the speedodometer works fine. every once in a while it will like cut out not die just like hesate then continue to build boost. I don't have a scan tool and can't really afford to pay someone to fix it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. :dsm:

Take it to autozone and get it scanned for free. If you get a code I could help you find the problem.
 
No auto zone close to me i live in the boonies? any ways to retrieve codes like turn igintion on and off a certain number of times??? I know some OBD1 cars have a code retriaval sequence with out the scan tool. any ideas?
 
wannyGSX said:
No auto zone close to me i live in the boonies? any ways to retrieve codes like turn igintion on and off a certain number of times??? I know some OBD1 cars have a code retriaval sequence with out the scan tool. any ideas?

I know you can get codes by turning the ignition on-off-on-off-on within 5 seconds. Then you count the number of times the CEL flashes. The number of flashes is the code. I THINK when there is a pause between the flashes it means the first and second digits of that code. When there is a longer pause like 3 seconds maybe 4 seconds seperate the individual codes.

I tried this once and it hasnt worked for me, but Im OBD11 so that could be why. I have a list of what these codes represent and how to understand them.

Where abouts are you in WI? Im actaully in Kenosha right now for college.

Get back to me when you test this out.
 
Here is how to pull codes on a 1G:

There will be a diagnostic code inside the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) if and only if the 'Check Engine' light on the lower left portion of the dash is illuminated. To get the code that the ECU is reporting follow these steps:

1. Locate the engine diagnostic test terminal located at the top of the drivers side kick panel (next to the fuse box).
2. You will want to count the pulses that are produced from the MPI terminal. The easiest way I found was to buy a 12v electric buzzer (Radio Shack #273-055 $2.49) and attach its leads to the terminal connector, then just listen for the pulses. You can also use an analog voltmeter and count the pulses displayed.
3. There are two types of pulses we are looking for "long" and "short". We are looking for a pattern where we have a series of long pulses (1 or more) and a series of short pulses (1 or more), then more long pulses. The codes always start with a long pulse and will finish with a short pulse. So start counting with the first long pulse after a short one. Count until you hear a long pulse after a short one again. NOTE: If you hear a constant "buzz", then your ECU is reporting that there is a problem with the ECU itself, if you hear only short pulses, there is no error code to report (i.e. normal state).
4. Lets say we write down: S-S-L-L-S-S-S-L-L. We know that we start and stop with a long pulse after a short one. So that happens at two places in our example. At the 2nd/3rd pulse set, and at the 7th/8th pulse set. The pulses between those two are what we want: L-L-S-S-S.
5. Now that you have the code, we need a code number. For every long pulse count it as a 10, and every short pulse counts as 1. So in our example, it is 10-10-1-1-1. Add them up and that is your code number, in our example 23.

Then tell me the code and ill look it up. The site with all the codes doesnt work but I printed it out. The ignition on-off-on-off thing only works on non-turbo 2Gs. And autozone cant pull codes on a 1G because its not OBDII.
 
I was told by doing that probing it and listening for pulse can and will probably fry the ECU??? I'm thinkin the easiest way is to just take it in thanks anyways for all the help guys any more suggestions on upgrades i can do when it is fixed would be awesome, i'm kinda new to these 2.0L.
 
I've never heard that it would fry the ECU, that came from a reputable site (myzero.com which no longer works). If I was doing it tho, I would use the multimeter instead, not the buzzer. Im afraid that if you take it into the dealer they will replace a shitload of parts most of which arent the problem, just because they dont know whats up with the swap. BTW I was thinking maybe the caps (capacitors) on your ECU are fried, open up the ECU and take a look (see if there is stuff oozing on the board and see if it smells bad, if it does you need to go huntin' for an ECU at a scrapyard). BTW from experience (not all from DSMs, just in general with cars), it will help you out ALOT in the longrun if you know how to fix small problems like these, dont give up yet! Half the "fun" ;) of owning a DSM is fixing the bi***! Good luck with it!
 
Thanks for all the help i will definitly be checkin the ecu in the mornin. Heres another thing that happened tonite when i was driving it the check engine light was on and while it was on going from 1st to 2nd it like JERKED really hard then continued to drive ok it seems like when i'm on it really hard is when its havin' the problems.
 
I have a feeling that the code will tell us why its jerking, maybe its a misfire, which means u need new plugs? Good luck!
 
Some new things evolved overnite today!!! Not GOOD... I checked the ecu no signs of smell or melted stuff like a guy earlier told me to check. I drove the car fine today then i got home and shut it off. I proceeded to go back out to my car like 15min later and the car would barly start!!!!! It will start but wants do die right away. It sounds like it is misfiring hella. Most of these symptoms seam to show there face when the car is warm. Or is under heavy load. I checked the plugs and wires they seem to be fine!!! Need help fast otherwise i am just gonna get it towed and look at by a pro. Any final suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Before you spend the money on a pro, spend the $3 on the buzzer thing and find the codes! Also how old are your plugs, even if they look good maybe their bad. Replace em with NGK BPR6ES and see what happens.
 
wannyGSX said:
Some new things evolved overnite today!!! Not GOOD... I checked the ecu no signs of smell or melted stuff like a guy earlier told me to check. I drove the car fine today then i got home and shut it off. I proceeded to go back out to my car like 15min later and the car would barly start!!!!! It will start but wants do die right away. It sounds like it is misfiring hella. Most of these symptoms seam to show there face when the car is warm. Or is under heavy load. I checked the plugs and wires they seem to be fine!!! Need help fast otherwise i am just gonna get it towed and look at by a pro. Any final suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Seems like your ECU has fried. Take it out and check it and see how the caps are. Sounds like its time for a new one.
 
I tried the pressure test today. It will not let me put any air in???? can't hear maybe my valve stem seal on the pressure tester isn't seeling. Cant seem to tell where the air is coming out??? any ideas?
 
wannyGSX said:
Thanks for all the help i will definitly be checkin the ecu in the mornin. Heres another thing that happened tonite when i was driving it the check engine light was on and while it was on going from 1st to 2nd it like JERKED really hard then continued to drive ok it seems like when i'm on it really hard is when its havin' the problems.


check the positive terminal on the battery, make sure the red bood is on it so it doesnt arc off the hood. the same thing was happening to my car, and that was the problem
 
New to this boost leak test. I cant get any air it seems past the turbo. I made the homemade one perfectly like the pictures showed me.Conected it to the turbos intake then put a bike tire foot pump on it air seems like it is coming out right after the turbo intake somewhere.... Does this mean the turbo is bad or did i do something wrong with the boost leak test.? :dsm: :(
 
Problem fixed!!!!!!!!!! Ended up being a bad TPS and Coil Packs. CAR RUNS GREAT NOW!!! Thanx for everyones help.!!!!
 
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