Timing Question.

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-06-2004, 07:52 PM

Is there anyway to adjust timing on a 2g without removing the timing belt and all?? i know on a 1g u just adjust the CAS. but on a 2g?? is there a way??

Boosted4 · 05-06-2004, 08:06 PM

ok, the CAS and the timing belt are two different kinds of timing. crank/cam timing, and ignition timing. I guess the first thing someone would need to know to answer your question is which you are talking about. If its crank/cam timing no ... if its ignition timing yeah ... base ignition timing is adjustable.

Brandon

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-06-2004, 08:09 PM

would it be bad if when i did my timing belt, my exhaust timing mark was half a tooth or a tooth above the intake one?? Will i have to pull the timing belt and all and align those? Will it fix it if i adjust my ignition timing? I am new to the timing aspect. Sorry.

forcedfedgsx · 05-07-2004, 02:51 AM

no ignition timing wont fix you crank/cam timing. basically no matter when the plug fires if the valve isnt in the right place with the piston it isnt going to run right. You really want to get that timing exactly right. It might run a tooth off but it wont be good.

flipnotize · 05-07-2004, 05:51 AM

how do u retard your ignition timing a bit?

realhp=turbo · 05-07-2004, 10:51 AM

I just changed my t-belt. I ended up taking it off and putting it on like 5 times till I knew it was exactly right. Yes you are supposed to align those marks with a staight edge. Its usually easier to start at the cam gears (when installing t-belt) with the exaust gear first then you literally have to pull that over ( and its not easy by yourself ) so it rotates and aligns with the intake gear. Then you go passed the idler pulley, down around the oil pump, crank, balance shaft, and then the tensioner. Very important that you do it in that order. If not, then all the slack on the belt is on the wong side and you risk skipping some teeth. Also, once you get the t-belt on, but you still have everything else unhooked then you want to start the engine. You dont need the alternator or anything else on just the t-belt. Start it for a couple of seconds so that you can check to make sure that you have it on the right way , before you go and put all that crap back on and in the way. It took me four tries to figure this out. Even with a Chiltons. The camed tensioner pulley is a little biotch aswell. Ive rambled long enough

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-07-2004, 12:32 PM

damn it!! i'm not gonna ### with it until i get enough time to do it in a day. And when my dad isn't around to make fun of me.

realhp=turbo · 05-07-2004, 08:43 PM

Please make sure that you check other sources aswell. Dont just take my word for what you need to do. This was just my experience. Starting the motor without a properly tensioned t-belt. Will cause damage. Ask some more people. I promise you though, your gonna come through this alot smarter!

mike

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-07-2004, 10:00 PM

the belt has plenty of tension its plenty tight. Those marks are just like half a tooth off. I put spark plugs in today and that helped too. I guess they were just old and needed new ones.

realhp=turbo · 05-08-2004, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LifIsPeachy02

the belt has plenty of tension its plenty tight. Those marks are just like half a tooth off. I put spark plugs in today and that helped too. I guess they were just old and needed new ones.

That half a tooth off is gonna effect how your car runs. If you can get that extra tooth over youll get #1 better compression tests on all cylinders, #2 better performance. When I did mine, my first comp test with the cams a half tooth off came out like this,
#1-150, #2-127, #3-125, #4-145
and after i got the extra tooth,
#1-142, #2-140, #3-130, #4-145
Now Im not sure why 1 and 4 stayed vertually the same but it did make a difference in how it ran. Thats cool that new plugs helped but I would still do a comp test. Im still thinking that Im gonna tear my motor down and do some head work aswell as pistons and rings. I hope this helped some. I know that mine is not the best example but this is what i encountered

mike

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-08-2004, 10:03 PM

yea when i get another car to drive i wanna do some head work along with some pistons and rings. All in a 6 bolt block tho. Not this POS 7bolt with almost 130,000 miles.

realhp=turbo · 05-08-2004, 10:07 PM

dude my motor, to the best of my knowledge has never been dug into. Right now shes sitting at 202,429. Still runs real strong with no internal noises.

LifIsPeachy02 · 05-08-2004, 10:12 PM

well i'm gonna get either a 6bolt or a 2.4 litre block from a N/T spyder and strap a 4g63 head onto it. i'm gonna build it too.

92awddsm · 05-08-2004, 10:13 PM

My exhaust cam was off 1 tooth and copression before and after were: 152-1,3,4 155-2 170-1,3,4 174-2. Performance was better all around, idles smoother, no misfires at higher rpm's now.

forcedfedgsx · 05-09-2004, 11:03 PM

i got real bad numers on compression, good in #1 then they drop off ALOT. I did my own t-belt andd now that i think of it, it might be off cause i dont have the best performance and it had a rebuild at one point i just thaought it wasnt done properly