The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G stock N/T talon electrical problem?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

thedragon632

Probationary Member
3
0
Apr 30, 2004
Barberton, Ohio
Ok I'll attempt to explain this as simply as possible. When I first start my car and drive it short distances it runs perfectly fine. As soon as the engine reaches normal temp. the car starts stuttering and jumping and just running terribly in general. A lot of times it will stop accelerating as well. I can put the gas to the floor and I get no response whatsoever. After it starts running like this, when i slow down to stop or make a turn the car will usually always stall. It continues to run like this until the car sits for a while and then it is fine again once the engine is cool. I have a buddy who is a mercedes mechanic and he does work on every type of car you can imagine for my friends, including numerous dsm's. He looked at it, had it for a few days, changed the plugs, wires, switched it ECU (I think) and the coil (I think) from another 95 2G N/T and none of that made a difference. The check engine light was on until he switched all of this stuff and since then it has been off, but the car still runs the same. I need an oil change, but other than that I dont know of any basic maintenance that has been missed. My friend says it has to be an electrical problem since the car runs so well when it's cold. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Kris
 
I am still yet to figure this problem out. Granted, I haven't taken it anywhere else, I've been trying to fix it myself, and not being the most experienced mechanic in the world, I haven't been able to figure much out. But, I can tell you what I've replaced so far: ignition coil, throttle positioning sensor, idle air control motor, spark plugs, oil change, air filter, fuel filter, one of the O2 sensors, can't remember if it's considered upstream or downstream, and I cleaned the hell out of the throttle body. At one point I was throwing 3 or 4 check engine codes, and now I am down to just Code #11 (when you use the Check Engine light flash after turning the key 3 times) which is, according to my Haynes Manual, "Intermittent loss of crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor signals to PCM, complete loss of crankshaft position sensor signal to PCM, or timing belt skipped one or more teeth". I've attempted to replace the crankshaft sensor, but was unable to remove the old one on my first attempt. I was going to replace the camshaft sensor as well, but in order to do that I have to cut off the old connector and solder the wires of a new one on since the new sensor has an entirely different connector. I personally am not the greatest with a soldering gun, so I haven't done that yet. And last but not least, my car hasn't even hit 90,000 miles and the timing belt looks perfectly fine, so I don't think that's the problem. I plan to try a few more things or perhaps take it to a nearby shop that actually works on DSMs pretty soon, so if I find anything out I'll post it. Also, if you get any advice from anyone, let me know because this is beginning to bother the crap out of me. Thanks, Kris
 
I think it would either be the ECU or the Camshaft Positioning Sensor as I have read similar problems with both situations. Caps would break down on the ECU and the CPS wouldnt work at all. Both of those would cause the same problem....although I dont understand why it would only do it only after the car warms up. I can drive mine for about a mile before it starts taking a crap....then I have to let it cool back down for a couple hours before trying again. Hit me back when you get more info. I am going to be calling three mitsubishi/chrysler dealerships tomorrow. :confused:
 
If you think its electrical start with the basics. Try to run a new ground from the battery. Having a bad ground can cause wierd results. Otherwise you must think what changes when the car warms up. Do you have the wrong temp spark plugs ? It is most likely a simple problem.
 
Ok, The three dealers I called said that it could be:

1st dealer:
Computer

2nd Dealer
EGR
Computer
Throttle Body

3rd Dealer Wanted me to bring the car in, said its definatly electrical though.
 
I think I have found my problem. I believe its clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel injectors. Cant get a fuel filter till tomorrow. Everyone is closed atm. I will be sure to get back with you all tomorrow afternoon.
 
I've changed the fuel filter, and it didn't fix anything, but I am thinking it may be injectors... I reset my ECU, ran the car for a while until the check engine light came back on and now the code says "Misfire in one or more cylinders detected. Spark plug, injector, cylinder compression or air intake problem; primary circuit problem in one or both ignition coils." Still haven't put the Camshaft sensor on, but if I do I'll be sure to post the results.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1991 tsi AWD auto engine harness
    Looking for a engine harness for my 1991 eagle talon AWD tsi auto trans If anyone has one hit...
    • sanmantsi72
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1997 eagle talon tsi
    I have a 1997 eagle talon tsi fwd auto for sale. It has 108k miles and in good condition.Recent...
    • El_marto
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 PARTS
    Cleaning out my shop closet, Buyer covers shipping & fee.Parts:.20 Over Turbo 6-Bolt Block...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 4G63 800cc injectors
    Im looking for a set of injectors that are at least 800cc. Thanks!
    • DSM_Thorpe
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2g rear brace arms
    2g rear subframe brace arms. Missing one of the bushing spacers. No rust. Had someone looking...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top