Car Stall, Dead battery.. what more can happen?

[mramc3]

I am putting my car back to stock to get a smog here in Cali. I am having the same problem of having the car stall at a stop. I have all the stock components and have a working t25 that had a has a working o2 sensor with no problems stated by its previous owner.

Last night, I installed the used t25, stock pipiing, new OEM oil return and feed lines, dropped in some oil and coolant. I tried to start the car, but my battery was completely drained. I put in a gallon of gas (i tried to empty it to put in a new fuel pump, but never did) and had the car jump started. I let it idle and sit in the driveway for a good 10 mins. Heard no hissing, typical tick though and nothing else. The ECU was trying to reconfigure itself, and I noticed the car would adjust its idle as the RPMS would drop and you can see the lights dim with that. Boost was fine, but on my A/F meter, it was barely lighting up the first light in the lean side (autometer). I know these lights are just for show and you dont get a true reading, but why was it barley lighting up?

So i drive down the street. No problems, then I rev it up to about 5000rpms and the boost hits about 10-12psi, then it died. After 15 minutes of being on, it would not start. Probably due to the completely drained battery. No juice at all to even pop start it. I had to get it jumped again and drove it home keeping my foot on the gas to stop it from dying.

-ISC readings were tested using a Digital Multimeter - OK
-I have to check vaccum leaks
-Possibly check the BISS screw
-New battery?
-New Fuel filter

My car is stock, but have magncore wires, NGK BPR7ES, A/F meter and boost gauge.

After looking for "stalling, idle, etc" on the search engine, I saw problems, but no one really reporting on them being fixed. Mostly on 1gs too with cold weather. Sorry if I am posting an old problem, but I want to make sure and pin point the problem and not jump to any conclusions. Going to work on it tonight, so any help would be great.

 

[leet]

I'm not quite sure what you are wanting to know, but it (obviously) sounds like your problems are stemming from a lack of power. Charge the battery up and see if that works.

 

[mramc3]

Changed the battery, car idled fine. Timing may be a little off. I left the car on for about 20 mins. I went to back it out of the garage and reved it up a little, then it died. Is this signs of a possible intake leak or bad o2? Yes, I have read the forums and know to check for a a leak using a home made pressure tester. And I know I can change an o2 sensor, but as I have to work to pay for my car, maintenance checks are too few and far between. Any ideas to pinpoint a certain area would be useful.

 

[crankbender]

It simply sounds like you are having a charging problem.

Lights dimming at low rpm is a sign of an alternator/regulator going out.
AFR dropping lean is a sign of low base voltage. The ECU uses this to adjust injector pulse. As the base voltage drops the car starts running lean.

It really sounds like you have a bad alternator or you forgot to plug your regulator back in. Check the plug on the back of the alternator.

 

[mramc3]

I tested the voltage on the battery with the car off that was 12.6VDC. Powered it on, then checked the voltage again, 14.6VDC I sat in the car and saw an initial at at 14000rpms, then it settled to about 850rpms. Car sounded fine, but the A/F meter had 1 red light lit up on the lean side. Next I revved the car to about 6000rpms, hit about 12psi boost, and then noticed the A/F meter. The single red light on the lean side was now fading away and dissappeared. It never even moved when I revved the car up. Idle was still 850rpms. I looked at the alternator and checked for loose plugs. nothing. everything seems ok. BTW my vac pressure was a steady 15Hg.

Can this still be an alternator problem? What is the next step I should take?

 

[mramc3]

I've been searching the archives for a couple of days now. A lot of people seem to have the same problem. Anyone solve it though? Come on guys, i want to drive my dsm too!!!

 

[crankbender]

First off how are you building 12psi of boost in neutral. Any standalones/piggybacks ecetera can cause problems.

The af gauge may be bad.

The O2 sensor may be bad.

Quite simply tho the only thing that would cause the battery to be dead is a problem with the charging system and a drain when the car is off.

Your alternator may be putting out voltage but not amperage. Are you still getting dimming of the lights.

Try this: start the car and leave it at idle. Now turn on the ac, radio, dome light, leave the door open, headlights, and step on the brakes. Now check the voltage at the cigarette lighter. Also comment if the lights dim.

Then check all your grounds (2 on battery to frame, 1 on tranny, 1 on exhaust is a minimum).

Also your vacume pressure is VERY high...it should be like 21 in. If you are on stock cams you may have a cylinder that isn't firing/sealing. Do a compression check!!! This could deffinately cause the O2s to read lean.

 

[mramc3]

the 10-12psi is was achieved by putting the car in first with the clutch fully depressed, and I simply feathered the gas.

So far the lights are ok, and no dimming. I will try to open everything up and (doors, radio, etc) and will check the voltage at the lighter, What is the purpose of this test?

I will definitely do the compression test and check grounds, Where is the GND on the tranny?

Stay tuned, I will post up results ASAP

 

[mramc3]

Can this be a problem with a bad ECU?

 

[mramc3]

what kind of monitoring systems can I purchase to find out the exact problem and get data and numbers that are actually useful in helping find out the root cause of this problem? Datalogger, dsmlink? let me know. I plan on selling the car once it gets running good again, so I plan to invest on some monitoring device to help me get this puppy back on the road.

 

[crankbender]

if the battery keeps draining then you need to pull your alternator and try a new one. or get it tested with a load.

 

[mramc3]

well the battery is fine. I switched out the alternator with a known working one. That seemed to be OK. The only problem I am seeing that is consistent is the lean a/f reading on the stupid autometer it starts out lighting up just one when I first start the car, then slowly fades away within the next 5 mins of idle. That, and my vac reading of 14-15Hg. The only other vaccum leak I can think of is probably the connection to the a/f meter.

what else can I use to monitor the air/fuel voltages being read by each o2 sensor?

 

[mramc3]

i am thinking that i may have some bad o2 sensors. also, when i rev the car up, i smell gas around the injectors. is there a possible leak of fuel? can that be the reason i am running so lean?

 

[FASTSPOOLINGST]

I am having this exact same problem right now. Did you fix it yet?
What was the diagnosis?

I have bought a new battery and a new alternator, I still have the same problem though.

Will ground wires removed cause this problem?

I turn on my headlights and elect fan, on my logger the battery shoots down to like 9.4 volts, when i turn them off, it goes back up to where it should be. Whenever i use anything electrical, it kills the battery. WTF?????