No Vacum need opinion

[uniqbboy]

About six months ago I had a shop redo my head, Porting put the cams in (hks 264/272) bigger valves etc... So when everything was put back together i had no vacum it was like 7hgm. When i talked to them they said that i had boost leak or something i checked no boost leak. Well i discovered something interesting the other day. I was getting ready to do my timing bealt and i had everything lined up than when i looked at exahust valves the valves on the cylinder 3 were slighly open. Mine understaning is that when all the timing marks are aligned all hte valves are supposed to be closed. Could this be the source of why i have no vacum and base idle sucks. And how would i go about setting this right? I already tried the shop first of all they were uncooperative and they said it will at least be a month before they can take a look at it. And to tell hte truth i don't want them messing with my car any more anyways.
Any inputs will be appreciated.

 

[Iceman]

compression test, leak down test, boost leak test with gas pedal down all the way .

 

[uniqbboy]

Right now i am more concerned that all valves are not closed when timing marks on cam gears are aligned. I need a fix for that.

 

[SpoOLxExO]

When installing cams, especially with head work and bigger valves, you do lose some vaccum, inherently. This is why people who only have a VPC as their fuel controller combined with cams get a butt idle. The lower vaccum signal is telling the VPC to dump fuel= poor idle.

But in your case of the exhaust valves not closing all the way, do you mean one is closed and when you rotate the cam gear, that valve closes, but then the other ex valve cracks open slightly?

Or do you mean, they stick open and never close throught out the cycle?

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Moved to problem diagnosis.

 

[slowAWDTSi]

If i remember correctly that is normal for one of the set of valves to be cracked open slightly
dru

 

[SpoOLxExO]

oh well, then he's probably over-reacting alittle on the valve situation, They couldnt be bent, just had the whole thing re-done, right Uniqbboy!?

I will have to ask what type of fuel control you are running, as worked heads with cams, don't like to get along with stock ECU's...

 

[BUCK]

Mine understaning is that when all the timing marks are aligned all hte valves are supposed to be closed

Untrue - you DEFINITELY misunderstood - THINK about it - 4 Stroke - 4 Cylinder Engine.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by uniqbboy
I was getting ready to do my timing bealt and i had everything lined up than when i looked at exahust valves the valves on the cylinder 3 were slighly open. Mine understaning is that when all the timing marks are aligned all hte valves are supposed to be closed.

If your timing marks are set, the only way the cams can be off is if you've spiraled them. And you haven't.

 

[uniqbboy]

Thanks everyone for help it turns out one pair of valves is supposed to be slightly open on exhaust and one on intake side when cam gears are lined up. I wasn't sure about it because before i had a vacuum leak that i couldn't get rid off. And i thought it was escaping through open valves.(stupid i know). It turns out since i have a 2.4L hybrid in when i was putting that in i didn't put a 4g64 timming belt which goes on 2.4L engine what i did is i resued the original 2.0L 4g63 timing belt which is 2 notches shorter. That solved my problem of abnormal base idle and vacuum shortnes. I have to change all of my tunning specs now. Once again thanks for everyones input. later