:( idle control malfuction :(

[it's a T]

i was working on my car when a positive wire touched my valve cover. i used my OBD II scanner and got a PO 505 error code (idle control malfuction). please help what is the problem? dealer wants $98 to "reset the idle." now it idles at 2000rpm, then warms up and bouces @ 1500-1900rpm.

some ideas
*idle control valve
*idle control sensor
*idle control motor
*computer (still knows all operation data and comunicates fine)

one more problem the temp guage on dash cluster went out at the same time?

PLZ HELP!

 

[Insearchofatsi]

I have the SAME exact problem. When it start it up i t stays at 2 grand then when it warms up it slowly goes down to 1500-1900. My temp gauge was going bonkers before it stopped working, is there any connection?

 

[it's a T]

was there a power serge on your car before it happened? mine is doing the exact same as yours. i had a 4ga wire touch my valve cover, after then it started. Sounds very similar, dealer said it could be the idle control motor, or computer. I dont know but i need some help before i spend $98 just to get the dealer to try to "reset my idle"

 

[it's a T]

gsx tuner said this in another form:

Just buy a 1g throttle body. That would take care of those 3 things that might be wrong, well... let me take it back, it IS one of those 3 things, I bet you money.

_____________________________

-Ross

 

[mitsugsx95]

Well, I have a 2g, and have a 1g TB on, and I still get the P0505 error code. I have switched to the 2g FIAV, got a new ISC, and cleaned the TB about 5 times now, but still does it a little. My conclusion for the 2k idle on startup is a bad FIAV. When I had the 1g FIAV on, it reved at 2k untill warm, then idled at 1500. After swapping the 2g FIAV back on, it started up and idled normal.

 

[it's a T]

does this sound right i found it in one of my other threds...

You can fix your idle by adjusting the BISS screw, located ontop of your throttle body. Screwing it clockwise lowers the idle, counter-clockwise raises the idle.

Your engine temp sensor could be shot. try replacing it. It's located around the thermostat.

my_gst95

would that fix a idle it is was steddy and not surging or boucing 1500-1900rpms?

 

[floorguy724]

This is exactly what my car is doing as well. Only difference is that my engine if freshly rebuilt and I thought that it might be a vacuum leak or something. I've been going crazy trying to find some info on this.


Ivan

 

[it's a T]

me too i just buying a 1G tb and porting out my intake many. i have another thread about this somewhere else check my prfile for it

jonathan

 

[awdEAGLEtsi]

i have a 2g and my car does the same damn thing. then the deal reset my idle or did something, and now it idles at 1k but sounds like it almost is about to stall. i could use some help. someone said something about an ISC on another forum, and i guess thats located in the throttle body. is their a way to just get that replaced?

 

[awdEAGLEtsi]

Originally posted by mitsugsx95
Well, I have a 2g, and have a 1g TB on, and I still get the P0505 error code. I have switched to the 2g FIAV, got a new ISC, and cleaned the TB about 5 times now, but still does it a little. My conclusion for the 2k idle on startup is a bad FIAV. When I had the 1g FIAV on, it reved at 2k untill warm, then idled at 1500. After swapping the 2g FIAV back on, it started up and idled normal.

so whats a FIAV, and how much do the ISC cost, and how hard are they to change?

 

[it's a T]

just get a 1G throttle body and put it on your car. it has to be the three vac line tb. not the two that the 90's have. a working tb will have everything u need in it. there was a website that i saw that walks u threw the steps. i dont what site it was right now i might find the printouts and i will post the site. there will be two gaskets needed along with the 1G tb to go onto the 2G.
thanks
jonathan

 

[it's a T]

here is the answer

after much research

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm

jonathan

 

[mitsugsx95]

The FIAV is the underside of the TB, connected to 2 water lines. Its purpose is to open the throttle when the car is cold. If its worn or broke, it will idle real high on start up and sometimes during normal driving.
As for the ISC (idle speed controller), just like its name, it uses a little stepper motor to control the idle. They cost a lot new, i would sugg. a rebuilt one.

Just getting a 1g TB and swapping it is not the fix. As I said, I still have some idle problems, so its not a fix all mod. Im still looking into what the problem could be (STILL getting the P0505 code, its starting to piss me off).

 

[awdEAGLEtsi]

hmmmm, i might just need to suck it up and get new everything. ummm are the throttle bodies the same in all 2g? or do they have differen't ones for the N/A's?

 

[mitsugsx95]

I beleive NA's are different

 

[Chaser755]

I've got the same problem. I just dropped a 1990 JDM engine in my 92 GS... I put the throttle body one there with the two vacuum lines on top, and 2 on the front. I blocked off the vacuum lines, bypassed the EGR, all sortsa stuff... and it's doing the idle at about 2k, bounce from 1500 to 1800 or so thing..... but.. ONLY when the MAS is connected... when I take off the connector.. the car idles fine, but wont rev up correctly. There must be some obvious thing we're all missing since we all have the same damn problem... . And Also, I have a hole in my wastegate actuator... is that normal? Its near the lip on the edge, not a normal hole i can tell you that... i think i have engine termites... Oh ya... and... why doesnt my Tach work? The Cam Angle Sensor is responsible for the tach right? Or am I just senile? The tach bounces when i put the key into the ignition position, so it's got power, but it's just not getting a signal from whatever sends that signal... .

 

[mitsugsx95]

Well, it sounds like you got a lot more problems than just a bad TB.

I have the 4 vac line TB, not the 2. The 2 vac TB was for the early 90's.

If yours stop doing it when you unplug your MAS, then THAT is another problem all together. I would look into seeing if the harness is connected right and there are no spliced wires. As for the actuator, no there should NOT be a hole. Only the nipple.

 

[2GeNTSi]

This happened to my friends 95 NT, the previous owner removed the IAC (Idle Air Controller) it used to idle at 2k constantly, I believe the part was $125 at the dealership, might be the same problem might not be...expensive for a part that is so small.

 

[it's a T]

Originally posted by Chaser755
I've got the same problem. I just dropped a 1990 JDM engine in my 92 GS... I put the throttle body one there with the two vacuum lines on top, and 2 on the front. I blocked off the vacuum lines, bypassed the EGR, all sortsa stuff... and it's doing the idle at about 2k, bounce from 1500 to 1800 or so thing..... but.. ONLY when the MAS is connected... when I take off the connector.. the car idles fine, but wont rev up correctly. There must be some obvious thing we're all missing since we all have the same damn problem... . And Also, I have a hole in my wastegate actuator... is that normal? Its near the lip on the edge, not a normal hole i can tell you that... i think i have engine termites... Oh ya... and... why doesnt my Tach work? The Cam Angle Sensor is responsible for the tach right? Or am I just senile? The tach bounces when i put the key into the ignition position, so it's got power, but it's just not getting a signal from whatever sends that signal... .

u need a 91-94 1G tb. its doesnt really matter the yr some 90's might work, but it has to have 3 vac lines, not two.
read this http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm