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Just Bought GSX,,,CW Question:-(

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FutureGSXOwner

20+ Year Contributor
274
0
Aug 27, 2002
Philly Burbs, Pennsylvania
Ok..I just bought a 99 Gsx with 79000 miles on it two days ago for a steal of a price ($8900). The car is heavily modified and does about 310hp at the wheels according to the previous owner. The first night I had the car it drove completely fine, but last night I was driving around and everytime I was approaching a redlight and went to take the car out of gear at near or over 3500rpm, the RPMs would shoot down quickly.. well near the "0" rpm range and the lights were thrown indicating that I was about to stall..(and I did stall like three times)..If it helps at all, I have a 16G turbo and am using the S-Afc for fuel tuning. My car idles fine...I only get the problem when I'm dropping out of any given gear into neutral. I'm really hoping this isnt Crankwalk...Help Guys!
 
IS the BOV vented to atmosphere or is it recirculated?

Is the Flywheel lightened?
 
It may be dying because of the vented BOV. Try putting a recirc. HKS kit on there and see if that helps.

Also in some cases if the flywheel is lightened the ecu can not react quick enough to keep the car from dying when droping down from high rpm. But then the ecu relearns and this problem usually goes away.
Have you reset your fuel trims(ecu) lately? If so this may be what is happening.

Jon Hebbeln
 
Ok...everyone that I've talked to in the AOL chats is screaming CW at me, but I'm hoping to god that the car is having a flywheel problem or something like you said..and no I just got the car two days ago..and I have no idea how to reset my AFC or ECU...does anyone else have an opinion?? I'd like to pinpoint this without having to visit a shop..Thanks guys.
 
Do you have the stock upper IC pipe and BOV. If you do have those swap those on and make the BOV recirculate.

To reset the ecu all you need to do is take off the battery terminals for 10-20 seconds.

My 91 does the same thing that you are describing and I have a 6 bolt.
I also have a lightened flywheel and hks bov w/ recirc kit. When I put on the recirc kit it stopped dying. The car will run better overall as well with a recirced BOV.

Hope this helps,
Jon Hebbeln
 
Well its funny...I had a Tiburon which I was planning to turboing with the T-25...so basically I have a mixed "kit" of 1st and 2nd gen turbo parts sitting around..including a 1st gen BOV which is connected to the hard-pipe..I'll try reflashing too, but It seems like such an insignificant problem due to the fact that I can control the car from stalling by simply not dropping into neutral at high rpm..unfortanately, it could still be CW according to most people I've talked to so far..any other opinions are more than appreciated..Thanks
 
Here is some stuff quoted by mike at RRE about the symptoms of crank walk:

(10 Step Program

Little clutch weirdness first.
Medium clutch weirdness second. Mushy clutch after a hard left turn
Major clutch weirdness third. Clutch falls to the floor when pushed after a
hard left turn.
Quickly followed by very slight ticking when the clutch is depressed
Next is moderate ticking when the clutch is depressed
Then ticking when the clutch is depressed
Then some stalling when the clutch is depressed
Then constant stalling when the clutch is depressed
Then it wont start if the clutch is depressed
Ultimately finishes off with constant sobbing 'cause you are depressed.

If you do have crank walk, your symptoms will depend on how far along you are. up through the 2nd step it could be other stuff. After the clutch falls to the floor on any hard left turn, you are done. Park the car and look for a dealer to trade it in at or save your lunch money for a new motor.

Mike W)



So I would say that from what your symptoms are I would recirc the BOV first before you get to worried about CW.

Check this out aswell:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/walkingcrankshaft.htm

Jon Hebbeln
 
Originally posted by FutureGSXOwner
Well its funny...I had a Tiburon which I was planning to turboing with the T-25...so basically I have a mixed "kit" of 1st and 2nd gen turbo parts sitting around..including a 1st gen BOV which is connected to the hard-pipe..I'll try reflashing too, but It seems like such an insignificant problem due to the fact that I can control the car from stalling by simply not dropping into neutral at high rpm..unfortanately, it could still be CW according to most people I've talked to so far..any other opinions are more than appreciated..Thanks
That doesn't sound like c walk at all. I had c walk, and that never happend to me. Sounds like you need to re-circ your bov.
 
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