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Clutch job this weekend in Novato need help

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conquestpa

15+ Year Contributor
39
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Aug 10, 2007
novato, California
Hi I'm doing a clutch job this weekend. I'm in novato. If anyone feels like stopping by to help out it would be cool. There will be beer and possibly cash for help / gas money.

If you just want to come over and observe thats fine too.

It would be nice to have someone there cause im always worried about being under a car when im all alone.

Anyway PM me for my number and we can talk more. probably on sunday.

I have lots of tools and will help you with your car if you help me.


-Bill :dsm:
 
i think ill have the trans out tomorrow. today got everything all setup and pulled a good amount of stuff.

is axle removal a requirement on a 1g?
 
nah, just unbolt the control arm and pull the axle outa the tranny and swing the control arm
 
No need to unbolt the control arm... just take out the two 17mm strut mounting bolts. Use the steering wheel if you need help getting the axle out.
 
hahahahha,... i remember doing that,.... and then driving home,....... that was the LONGEST its EVER taken me to get from richmond to orinda. Also the most expensive trip.

anyways, when I was removing the motor out of my car, i tried this, didn't really seem like it worked, and I ended up tearing my cv boot on my passenger side. Just keep that in mind, LOL.
 
the boots look to be in condition. has anyone used those clamp style cv boots out of curiosity?

So yes the axles need removed from the transmission and you can kinda remove them from the tranny and pull them outta the way with some fanagiling.

ok and then once i get the tranny down, ill need to support the engine somehow or not necessary?

how tight are the flywheel bolts on this thing, will i need to heat with a torch?
 
i seem to have more luck with unbolting the control arm...maybe it's just me.
 
You don't need to support the engine. The flywheel bolts are tight, you'll have to jam the crank somehow. You can put a 1/2" ratchet in the hole in the crank sprocket on the other side of the engine, or jam the flywheel with a big screwdriver or something. If you have an impact, you don't have to do any of that crap. No torching necessary. Be sure to get the flywheel machined to spec.
 
actually its a 1991 laser turbo.

i like the talons and lasers better anywho :thumb: ;)

ROFL

Im not seeing the "gusset" is that not in the fwd car?

also the instructions say to remove the tie rod end. how?? i pull the cotter pin but i cant get it to seperate.

here's what im using for instructions:

http://vfaq.com/mods/clutch-1G.html
 
trans is out, flywheel is off. im done for now.

coincidentially i pulled the timing cover and the belt doesnt look good. belts a little chewed up. suppose thats the next project :mad: ROFL

thanks for all the offers for help from all. im going to try to take the flywheel in to get cut this week and put it back together probably on friday if anyone wants to lend a hand.

i also pulled the intercooler and gave it a good cleaning.

the job wasnt that bad. i supposed a novice mechainic could do it in about 8+ hours. i would prefer to take 4 hours each day and turn it into a weekend job. I think I can have it all back together now in about 4.

im not sure which one is the harder job this car or a starion... :)
 
clutch kit is here, flywheel is machined. ready to put everything back together and see how this thing goes down the road. I'll then do a compression check and see it its going to be worth while to redo the timing kit.
 
good luck mang. feel free to ask even the dumbest questions, we're here to help.
 
its a "perfection clutch" kit from partsamerica.com

$132

I wish i woulda picked a different one now but oh well.

they had 1 cheaper one and a beck arnley for 160 which im partial to.
 
Oh geez good luck with that. I hope it will hold for more then a week. I had a centerforce one time and it was good for daily driving but as soon as I launched it a couple of times it was toast. Your only FWD so maybe the tires will spin and not the clutch.
 
i love when people shit on others project with little knowledge of it or the product there using. :rolleyes:


in regards to the rear main seal:
Im ready to start putting everything back together but I didn't get the paper gasket for this backing plate. i cant seem to find the part number to order it.

i would like to button this job up and the seal does not appear to be leaking. im thinking of :

a: forget the seal and just put it back together
b: make my own gasket for the backing plate out of the do it yourself cork gasket i have here and some rtv. the cork stuff i have is a little thick, maybe ill but some of the cardboard stuff.
c: figuring out the part number and ordering the gasket. potentially have to wait another week or 2 for the part

lastly.. so I suppose i need to drain the engine oil, then remove the plate and the rm seal should just pop out the old and the put in the new one and it will go in pretty easily?
 
I say if the rear main isnt leaking dont F with it. YOu probably have more of a chance f'n it up now if its not already leaking.

Care to share why you chose to put in a stock(ish) clutch? Do you plan to mod the car at all or race it? Or is it set up for D/D right now?
 
i love when people shit on others project with little knowledge of it or the product there using. :rolleyes:

Chill man no one is shitting on your project. I speak from experiance not out of my ass. These cars like a tough clutch if you plan to beat the car a little that's all. Maybe FWD will be more forgiving then awd.
 
I I bought the car for $250. Trying to put in as little money as possible at least until i know it can go down the road correctly. I dont necessarily aggree with the fact that if somthing is more expensive then it means its a better product. it will just be a beater car and for me to learn on. I will probably get a awd dsm or evo at some point and this will be a good learning exp. i used to have a misubishi starion, a buddy had an older mirage witha 4g63t in it and I just love these mitsu turbo cars.

any other votes on the seal?? the bell housing is bone dry.
 
You REALLY should have got an ACT2100 unless you will never, ever mod this car. My stock FWD clutch committed suicide after several weeks on an MBC and an exhaust.
 
You REALLY should have got an ACT2100 unless you will never, ever mod this car. My stock FWD clutch committed suicide after several weeks on an MBC and an exhaust.

+1 i went through 3 stock clutches in 2 weeks in my gst+mbc+catback, then i got a 2100 and it lasted until i totaled the car

Since you are trying to get the car together and running, its understandable, and now that you know how to put it in, once you start modding, you will have to change the clutch again.
 
well the stocker lasted 191000 dont see why this one wont last that long. how much is the act kit? im betting around 300. if this one fails quickly i will buy the act disc and slap it in.

of course I want to turn the boost up a little bit and run some high octane but i just want to make sure the car runs to start. that and passes emissions.
 
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