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Nitrous/Alcohol/Water Injection Nitrous, alcohol, and water injection tech discussions.

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Old 04-29-2008, 04:05 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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nitrous to make up for turbo lag?

i have a fully built auto and have experimented with a few turbos. i ran a fp 18g and could brake boost about 14psi at the line and only cracked about a 2.2 60' but with the 14 on it now it rips out of the whole wiht about 20 psi at the line. my ? is if i get about a say 20g can i shoot some n20 on the bottom to make up for the turbo lag that is going to come with the 20g? and also how big of a shot can i do and how would i got about tuning it? i would mainly just be using it until the turbo spooled not while its running at the set boost level, probably run a 50 - 75 shot until turbo spools? then tune for about 20-22 psi no n2o? any sugestions?
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Yes you can use N2o to spool the turbo, only use it over 2500 RPM and at full throttle (basic rules for all n2o setups)

Just go with the jets the nitrous company recomends for a wet kit and you'll be fine as long as you're only using a 35-50 shot.

You need to either trigger it by hand (say a thumb button on the shifter or wheel) so that you can just blast it for spool up. If you had a good aftermarket ECU you could program it to run the nitrous only for spool, but you would need to be familiar with how to set it up to turn off at a certain boost (only possible with a EMS or some good enginuity with relays and hobbs switches)
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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I do this on the RWD. You probably won't need much nitrous on that small of a turbo though. A 40 shot is enough to spool the GT42R on my car. Just on the motor it will get up to 3500 rpm against the converter with zero boost. On the 40 shot it will do more than 5000 rpm and 12-15 psi ( I stopped at that point since it was what I was looking for for that run). In my case this little 40 shot was enough to drop the sixty foot from 2.3 to 1.49 seconds and it took 3 seconds off my ET. My point is just that I would start small in your case. 30 shot is a good starting point for a single fogger on a 4 cylinder IMO, and work it up from there as needed.

I set up my AEM to enable nitrous between 3200 and 5500 rpm and between 0 psi and 20 psi and above 75% throttle. You can use DSMlink as the RPM and throttle windows, and an adjustable hobbs switch to prevent overboost conditions very easily.


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Old 05-12-2008, 11:38 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Why should you use nitrous only above 2500rpm? Reason I ask is because I need a nitrous kit to spool my holset h1e turbo. I can only get it up to 2200rpm with my built auto tranny and a 3800rpm stall. Should I get a wet or dry kit if nitrous is for spool up only? I can get a dry kit for really cheap, and I have dsmlink so I can compensate for the nitrous by adding fuel when it's on. If it's worth getting a wet kit, I'll do it, but it's just for spoolup. Thanks


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Old 05-12-2008, 03:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Unless I've missed something new, DSMlink won't add fuel for nitrous. In which case you'll need a wet kit. The reasons for waiting for a higher rpm is that you don't want a huge jump in cylinder pressure at low engine speeds. In this case where you'll likely be running a very small amount of nitrous (like a 30 shot) I wouldn't hesistate to try injecting it at 2200, just be careful with it.


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Old 05-12-2008, 08:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Well, I was just thinking that if I had my nitrous come on at 2200rpm and my foot is at wot, couldn't I add a ton more fuel in where the nitrous kicks on and take out fuel everywhere else accordingly? Or is that not a good idea and just go with a wet kit? Thanks


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Old 05-12-2008, 09:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Anyone else having problems spooling the FP 18G with a auto?

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Old 04-29-2009, 09:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I would wire this into it. eBay Motors: Boost Pressure Switch - For Turbo Water Injection hobbs (item 330325844873 end time May-04-09 08:12:38 PDT)

That way the nitrous shuts down at a designated boost level and greatly reduces the chances of detonating and blowing your motor. This is the only difference between the zex wet kit and their turbo kit.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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650+AWHP+Eagle+Talon++low+10+second+shakedown+pass

40R with a 50 shot and a 2.0L. Still working the bugs out and getting the 60's down. Best so far was a 1.50 but we are working on a 1.45ish as you can tell teh turbo hits full boost around the 60' mark. Oh on a 2300RPM stall, we might bump it up to 75 or 100 and see what it does.

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Old 06-20-2009, 02:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 420a-t View Post
Why should you use nitrous only above 2500rpm? Reason I ask is because I need a nitrous kit to spool my holset h1e turbo. I can only get it up to 2200rpm with my built auto tranny and a 3800rpm stall. Should I get a wet or dry kit if nitrous is for spool up only? I can get a dry kit for really cheap, and I have dsmlink so I can compensate for the nitrous by adding fuel when it's on. If it's worth getting a wet kit, I'll do it, but it's just for spoolup. Thanks
you don't want to bring it on under 2500 because it can put enough force against the piston on it's way up at too early of an RPM to actually bend a rod fairly easily... ON my mustang i had it set to a 2500 RPM minimum, on my eclipse i won't let it come on till right at 3500 RPM ...

there's a lot of basic do's and don'ts for N20... if you're going to be spraying, i suggest you read up on the site and get familiar with them unless you're wanting to break parts and spend money
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