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scottypimppin

10+ Year Contributor
114
0
Feb 16, 2009
essex, Maryland
I just rebuild the head it's freash still stock new heAd gasket and arp head studs, and timing belt and I'm not sure what to do next it's got an full exhaust and intake but that's it and ya it's auto tranny so anyone have any ideas
 
next step, manual conversion:hellyeah: Or complete your intake with bigger TB and ported IM to match
 
i would have put new camshafts in. udp would be next then..... the bottle 75 wet shot. but if your gonna spray then get some colder plugs

I didnt really notice much difference in the UDP upgrade. Maybe I got shitty pulleys... Recommend UDP brand thats quality, and proven, please.


***Edit*** And I have been running stock cams forever. I thought it was pointless to swap them out unless you were shooting for big numbers, like 500+.....

Wasnt our head designed by Lotus? I thought that it had pretty amazing flow stock.

Any testimonials out there?
 
lot of members such as myself have felt a huge difference with upgraded cams (stage 2 or better). As for the UDP, for the price of it, it is very worth upgrading as long as you have your crankshaft pulley off already while upgrading cams.

On a side note for cams, I have been told for the 420a that stock cams work better than a non-tubro grinded cam if you plan on going with a turbocharger. Just something to think about for the future.
 
lot of members such as myself have felt a huge difference with upgraded cams (stage 2 or better). As for the UDP, for the price of it, it is very worth upgrading as long as you have your crankshaft pulley off already while upgrading cams.

On a side note for cams, I have been told for the 420a that stock cams work better than a non-tubro grinded cam if you plan on going with a turbocharger. Just something to think about for the future.

Already running boost!

Question, kind of related.

I used a steering wheel puller and an impact to get my timing gear off both times I did my build(420a) is there an easier way? What about pressing it back on? I had a hell of a time, and eventually bought a 36mm socket to go over the snout of the Crank to help evenly beat the gear back on. That little key in the gear gave me hell man!!

I will be doing another build soon, and this was probably the hardest bunch of bullshit I have had to deal with during the process!!
 
I just rebuild the head it's freash still stock new heAd gasket and arp head studs, and timing belt and I'm not sure what to do next it's got an full exhaust and intake but that's it and ya it's auto tranny so anyone have any ideas

I'd recommend a UDP and possibly a shift kit for your A/T. There are plenty of upgrade paths both here and on 2GNT.com.
 
On a side note for cams, I have been told for the 420a that stock cams work better than a non-tubro grinded cam if you plan on going with a turbocharger. Just something to think about for the future.

The stock cams will spool the turbo faster than aftermarket cams, but aftermarket cams will flow more air. Crower makes a turbo grind cam that is apparently a decent compromise between flow and spool time.

I used a steering wheel puller and an impact to get my timing gear off both times I did my build(420a) is there an easier way? What about pressing it back on? I had a hell of a time, and eventually bought a 36mm socket to go over the snout of the Crank to help evenly beat the gear back on. That little key in the gear gave me hell man!!

I will be doing another build soon, and this was probably the hardest bunch of bullshit I have had to deal with during the process!!

If you use a UDP, they are extremely simple to install. Heat them in the oven just prior to installation and you can push it on with your hands. This method isn't recommended with the factory harmonic dampener because of the rubber ring. You could use a longer bolt of the same thread as the factory bolt, along with some large washers, to drive the factory pulley onto the crank snout.

Unorthodox Racing makes a nice two-piece aluminum 20% underdriven pulley, and AF/X makes a 30% UDP. Both are high quality, light weight, and proven.
 
for removal of the stock crank pulley, there is a crystler only harmonic balancer pulley that works best, the other harmic balancer pulleys dont fit right learned this after my 3rd trip to autozone, hope that helps some.

I use an unorthadox racing pulley on my car, wanted a howell, but didnt want to wait forever to get mine. We used a torch to heat up the UDP and it worked so nice, just slid right on. I have herd of people having problems with the 3 bolts on the unorthadox racing pulley, but I used red locktite, believe it was under locke suggestion, and have yet to lose one.
 
Thanks a bunch for the input guys!! First of all, I have the 4" gear puller for the Harmonic balancer, thats cake. What Im talking about is the Timing gear on the crank, after the harmonic balancer.

The only way I could pull it before was threading through the 3 holes you guys are talking about bolting the UDP to. Using a steering wheel puller, an impact wrench and some elbow greese was the only way I could get the timing gear off, and it was even harder to put back on. Even when I heated it up, it was still a pain in the ass and I used MAP gas to do so. I actualy cracked the side, and a little chunk came off during the "Beat it on" process. The gear sits too far down the Crank to use a bolt and washers. That works for installing the Harmonic balancer, not the timing gear...


Thanks a bunch though like I said, I appreciate the "easy" to accept advice. Some forums people are dicks:thumb:

Anyone have a trick up their sleeve for this timing gear though???
 
Putting on the crank sprocket can be a bi***. last time I did it I used a ong bolt and washers like the crank pulley, but I found a huge deep socket that fit over the crank snout and the bolt passed through it.
 
Putting on the crank sprocket can be a bi***. last time I did it I used a ong bolt and washers like the crank pulley, but I found a huge deep socket that fit over the crank snout and the bolt passed through it.

So you still used washers and a bolt? Just pressed the giant socket with the washers/bolt threaded into the crank, and that pressed on the timing gear?

Seems like a huge drive socket. 1" or bigger, dunno couldnt find one that big. Used a 36mm and a 2 lb sledge w/a map gas torch. But I damaged the gear in the process so my method is flawed!!

Could you dig in your tool box and see what size the socket is, as well as what size drive? I would go buy one if I knew the size/drive combo.

Thanx in advance!
 
Putting on the crank sprocket can be a bi***. last time I did it I used a ong bolt and washers like the crank pulley, but I found a huge deep socket that fit over the crank snout and the bolt passed through it.

X2

Had a stubborn sprocket on one of mine one time. Used this exact method. Worked great. :hellyeah:
 
So you still used washers and a bolt? Just pressed the giant socket with the washers/bolt threaded into the crank, and that pressed on the timing gear?

Seems like a huge drive socket. 1" or bigger, dunno couldnt find one that big. Used a 36mm and a 2 lb sledge w/a map gas torch. But I damaged the gear in the process so my method is flawed!!

Could you dig in your tool box and see what size the socket is, as well as what size drive? I would go buy one if I knew the size/drive combo.

Thanx in advance!

IIRC it was a 3/4" drive 1" deep socket. Unfortunately it was in the garage when that went up in smoke (thank god the car was not)

And yeah, you just slip the socket over the crank snout, stack some washers on the end and pass the long bolt through and tighten down.
 
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