What dealers are qualified to look at my car?

[TheTSiGuy]

I wanted to go and have everything looked over on my car. check the ecu to make sure no codes were being thrown, and to check out this idle problem, and this throttle issue i have.

I called mitsu up, and they told me theyd look at it, thought they lack the proper diagnostic equipment and electronic stuff to service it to its full potential.

He suggested that i call chrysler. I called chrysler up, and the service guy was like "what? an Eagle? Sure....eh...errr...we'll work on it!"

that kinda makes me skeptical. What other options do i have? or do most chrysler dealers know whats going down?

 

[steve]

The Mitsubishi dealer is more likely to have the right equipment and mechanical parts. Just tell them to treat it as if it was a eclipse of the same year.

Steve

 

[Dieselboy]

What you must realize is that 80% of the workforce at "satan" are all dumbasses, and this one in particular must not know that your car is the exact same car as a '91 Eclipse GSX. Id suggest:

1. Taking it to this dealer in person and talk to someone who knows that there is no difference.

2. Taking it to a different Mitsu dealer with more of a DSM reputation

3. Finding a local wiseman and pay less.

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Hmm...

i knew this could get a little difficult.

Worse case scenario, Automotosport is aboutr 45 minutes away from me, and they are DSM/4g63 experts. I could trust them i'd think.

Any other ideas?

 

[steve]

Depends on where in Chicagoland you live.
AMS isn't cheaper than a dealer but they pretty much know DSM's.
There are several dealers in the area that wouldn't be confused just because it says Eagle on the back.

Steve

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Steve,

Where do you usually take your car? I see you're in St Charles...im in naperville, which isnt TOO far off.

Any reccomendations?


Also, i had a question. About adjusting boost on a manual boost controller. the guy i got it from says it was set to 20 PSI. I consistently get 15 psi max now. could something be wrong, or do the screw just slip? the owner said something about taking an allen wrench and adjusting it. where can i find this to tweak?


Thanks!

 

[steve]

When I don't feel like working on my car I take it to Biggers Mitsubishi in Elgin where I bought it 12 years ago. http://biggersmitsu.com/ Keith is the Service Manager and takes good care of his customers. I've bought three cars there now and recomended them to others. It's one of the few dealerships that the local ChiDSM guys will take their cars to.

Most MBC's are a simple ball valve, the bolt presses against a spring which holds the ball against the bottom port blocking it until the boost pressure exceeds the spring pressure. To raise the boost you turn the bolt in farther compressing the spring more. It's possable that it loosened. Be careful raising the boost much higher than what's it's set to right now unless you have supporting mods like a upgraded fuel system.

You can pull any codes yourself with a analog voltmeter or by spending $5 at radio shack on a 12v piezo buzzer. You just attach the meter or leads between pin 1 (top left) and pin 12 (bottom right) on the DLC connector next to the fusebox at your feet. Pin 1 would go to the positive lead, and pin 12 is ground.
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/errorcodes.html

Describe your idle problem.

Steve

 

[TheTSiGuy]

I have a question about boost, and how it works.

When i floor it, or put my accelerator to WOT, i see the boost rise on the guage. Around 4000-4500 rpms, max boost of 15 psi is achieved. After that it stays constant till i shift to the next gear. Is it supposed to be like that? its like once it hits that 15 psi, its a brick wall. i can hear the turbo making its spooling sound, and it keeps on whirring the same pitch once it gets there. Is this normal? or should it die off? ive never owned a turbo car before, so ive got no clue.


Thanks!
Jim

 

[TheTSiGuy]

Ah, and as far as supporting fuel modifications, does that mean what i already have?

Ive got 550cc injectors, walrbro fuel pump, and an Apexi Super AFC. What else would i need?

 

[steve]

Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
I have a question about boost, and how it works.

When i floor it, or put my accelerator to WOT, i see the boost rise on the guage. Around 4000-4500 rpms, max boost of 15 psi is achieved. After that it stays constant till i shift to the next gear. Is it supposed to be like that?

That's correct. Boost is a positive feedback loop. If you didn't have some way to limit it the turbo would push more air/fuel into the cyls, burn it, and the exhaust would spin the turbo faster until something gives.

The way its controlled is by a wastegate. That's a bypass on the exhaust around the turbine. The wastegate is opened when you reach the desired boost level. If it works correctly the turbine won't spin any faster.
If the wastegate can't bypass enough air you get boost creep.

On our cars the wastegate actuator is pressure controlled. Boost pressure is sampled from the compressor outlet and once the boost pressure exceeds the spring pressure in the WGA an arm opens the wastegate on the hot side. To allow boost pressure to exceed the spring pressure the car come stock with a electronic bleeder valve and some restrictors in the hoses connecting the boost source from the WGA.
By limiting the rate air can enter the hose and by leaking off some of the air pressurized in the hose you can lower the pressure in that hose. That what the stock Boost Control Solenoid does. There are many types of MBC. The most common on a DSM is a check valve the blocks boost pressure from reaching the WGA until the valve is forced open. By changing the spring pressure holding the valve closed you can change the boost over a pretty wide range starting with where the WGA would open if there was just a hose and up to the point where your pistons melt.

On the other side, you have a device that releases pressure in your intake when you let off the gas called a Blow Off Valve. Without it you get shock waves in your intake every time you close the throttle headed back at the compressor that can damage it.

Steve

Steve

 

[steve]

Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
Ah, and as far as supporting fuel modifications, does that mean what i already have?

Ive got 550cc injectors, walrbro fuel pump, and an Apexi Super AFC. What else would i need?

Sounds llike your set, the only thing you need is a way to tune the car. A datalogger or time on the dyno with a wideband O2.

I only asked because far too many guys just crank up the boost to 20psi and them wonder why the engine quits.

Steve

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by TheTSiGuy
I have a question about boost, and how it works.

When i floor it, or put my accelerator to WOT, i see the boost rise on the guage. Around 4000-4500 rpms, max boost of 15 psi is achieved. After that it stays constant till i shift to the next gear. Is it supposed to be like that? its like once it hits that 15 psi, its a brick wall. i can hear the turbo making its spooling sound, and it keeps on whirring the same pitch once it gets there.

Your wastegate has opened and is letting exhaust pressure bypass the turbine, just like it's supposed to.

Learn more before you start dicking around with boost settings. Some mistakes aren't reversible.