what to look for when buyin new (used) dsm

[reveal1123]

im tryin to get a 97-99 gst/x, and i just want to know what to look for when test driving them or even by just looks... im clueless as to what goes wrong or what the warning signs are by a simple test drive.. if anyone can help me, id greatly appreciate it.. thanks..

-- brett

 

[tsunari]

I'll do my best. . .

+Research
1) Get the VIN # and run it through carfax.
If there's been a wreck, flood damage, etc . . . walk away
2) Does the seller seem to be hiding anything? Nervous about questions? Avoiding questions?

+Walk around:
1)Easy- just visibly inspect the car. How's the paint? Any signs of damage (or worse . . . rust)?
2)Make sure to look under the car for any parts falling off- check the
exhaust system while you're under there
3)Fluids! Is the car leaking any? Puddles of oil, antifreeze, tranny fluid? All could be signs of future problems
4)How do those tires look? Nice even wear? Any tread left? Might give clues as to if this car has been ridden hard and put away wet, OR if it has alignment problems.
5)Windshield - cracked? May need to be replaced to get an inspection sticker.
6)Weather striping - is it in good condition or all dry-rotted? This stuff isn't cheap!

+Under the hood:
1)Does it look like it was JUST cleaned? If so- too bad. Might be covering up for leaky head gasket, etc. . .
2)Anything seem to be missing?
3)How do those accessory belts look?
4)Spark plug wires seem decent?
5)Hoses - good condition? Or are they all ready to start leaking/fall apart?
6)Check the oil- is there enough in there? If not. . .hmmm- how long has it been like that?
7)All other fluids- same thing.

+Start 'er up!
1)Any unusal grinding sounds while the engine is turning over? May need a new starter!
2)How long did it take to actually catch and turn-over? A few cycles? Sounds good to me.
3)Any ticking sounds? Do they go away once the oil pressure builds?
If so, it's probably the HLA's -- no BIG worry.
4)Any knocking? May be a rod . . . *wince*
5)How does it idle? Nice and smooth? @ what RPM? (should be around. . .800 I believe- should double check)
6)Overall, how does the engine sound? How's the exhuast sound?
7)Built up oil pressure yet?

+Electronics
1)Headlights
2)Horn
3)Windows
4)Seat
5)Wipers
6)Turn Signals
7)Running lights
8)Stereo system (think that's everything)

+Test drive
1)Does the e-brake work?
2)Does it shift smooth through all the gears? (reverse also)
3)How's the suspension?
4)Is there excessive road-noise? Might indicate the wheel bearings are going out
5)Brakes -- can you stop?
6)Acceleration . . . well- put your foot into it! You haven't bought it yet!
7)Can it hold a straight line? (i.e. let go of the wheel for a second . . .)

+Overall
1)How does it feel? Enough headroom, leg room, etc . . .?
2)If you have any 'funny feelings' about it- just walk away. There will be another one.


*whew* Sorry to be so long-winded. Hope it helps!

 

[tsunari]

You could also check for crank walk- if the owner would let you. . .

 

[zer0bot]

say i am buying from a private buyer, is a mitsubshi dealer a good place to get the crank end shaft play checked out? or where would you recomend?

 

[tsunari]

Yeah, I guess you could do that- at least they SHOULD be aware of what crank-walk is. While they're at it, might as well get a compression test

 

[KBeast666]

I have a question, how do you check for crankwalk? Do you need the car up off the ground, and take the oil pan off?

Secondly, what is the most common reasons for burning oil on start-up on DSMs- valve guides, valve seals, or piston rings? If a DSM you are looking at burns oil on start-up, should you just walk away or does it depend on how much oil it burns?

Lastly, if I do a compression test what is the normal cylinder pressure on the 1g 4g63 turbo?

Thanks

Kyle

 

[tsunari]

Crankwalk:

Well you can do it like this guy did -- http://www.angelfire.com/pa4/fwdcrankwalk/
but personally, I just:
+Put the front on stands
+Took the driver-side tire off
+Took the access panel off
1)Used a dead-blow mallet on the harmonic balancer to push
the crank all the way to the back of the engine
2)Setup a friends dial indicator w/ magnetic base to touch the balancer
3)Zero-ed the dial
4)Had the friend depress the clutch to the floor and hold it while I took readings.

Performed steps 1-4 several times and took the average (did any of this make sense?)

Oil:
Could be piston rings (might want to walk away), valve guides, valve seats, or a burned valve. Personally- my car had a burned exhaust valve when I bought it (and I bought it knowingly). So I took the head off, got the valves replaced (did a 3-angle valve job and mild port while I was at it), put it all back together and haven't had a single problem with it!

Compression:
Check this link http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

Hope that keeps you ppl going --

 

[reveal1123]

wow.. thanks for that long a$$ inspection... it brought like so many more focal points to my attention. Im definatly gonna use all the stuff you said. Gotta quick question tho... im lookin at this 98 gst with 70k dealer listed for 11 g's.. the interior seems to be really dirty.. does this give a little forseight that the car wasnt taken care of? im a little worried about that... otherwise, i started er up, and she sounded great-- idled around where u said, turbo sounded insane , nothin was hangin off, engine was a lil dirty( but thats good, right?) paint was excellent... the only thing was that the interior was dirty (thought it was weird specially since it was at a dealer) car nu supercars in west berlin NJ to be exact (for all the ppl who heard of that-- please give comments bout the dealer) gotta carfax -> clean auctioned car.. i want to jump all over it, but im still a little iffy bout the interior... im hopin a days work on it, and it'll be spotless... but anyway, u think theres any room for negotiations? maybe down to 10200? or even 10 g's.... thanks for all ur help, and i hope u can help me with this 1 last thing.. thanks tunari

 

[tsunari]

I would have to say that if the whole car looks/feels good to you and the only problem is a filthy interior- the previous owner might've just been a slob/lazy. One thing you may want to do is make an offer . . . but I'll tell you this from what I've learned- if you don't feel embarrassed about the offer you've made, you've offered too much. Also, another barganing point you may want to do is if/when you guys half-way settle on a price, make it contingent on having a compression test done and the reading being good.

If all that works out- congrats! Keep us posted . . .