Spyder How do I test a convertible top motor?

[Naked Guy]

Under normal operation, when the top is closing or opening (with your finger still on the open/close button), the motors will stop when the top is finished moving.

A while back, my convertible top motors started acting strange - the motors would continue to run when I continued to hold the button to operate it. This happened about a year ago.

Now, the motors are not strong enough to operate the top anymore. I can open and close the roof manually, and everything is moving the way it should. The motors still try to turn when I try to open or close the top electrically. The only time the motors are strong enough to move the top is when I manually open it halfway. Since the motors are no longer trying to fight gravity, they can open or close the top from this position.

I checked the voltage to each motor, and it is as it should be. When I take the motors off the car (keeping the electrical connectors plugged in), they turn as they should.

How can I test the motors to see how much torque they turn with? I'm guessing only one of the two motors isn't doing it's share of the work, and I don't want to have to replace both if I don't have to.

Also, what would cause the motors to continue to run, when they should shut themselves off when the open/close motion is finished? Would this have anything to do with my weakened motors?

Any help you have is appreciated.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by Naked Guy
A while back, my convertible top motors started acting strange - the motors would continue to run when I continued to hold the button to operate it. This happened about a year ago.

Now, the motors are not strong enough to operate the top anymore.

So you've run them for a year with no limit switch, and now they're burned out. Hrmph.

I'd guess it's new motor time, and this time don't run them past the limits.
Judging by this strict maintenance routine, how long since you've gone through -strike that- had someone go through the top mech and lube everything?

 

[Naked Guy]

Actually, only once did I hold the button when the top was finished moving.

I have myself lubed everything up twice since I've owned the car (Almost 3 years). The car isn't driven in the winter, and I've so far lubricated everything each spring.

Thanks for the judgement.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by Naked Guy
Actually, only once did I hold the button when the top was finished moving.

Ah, the story changes.

I have myself lubed everything up twice since I've owned the car (Almost 3 years). The car isn't driven in the winter, and I've so far lubricated everything each spring.

Have you ever cleaned out the old lube, and checked the linkages? The motors are somehow getting more load on them than they can cope with. Are they even in movement, or does one side lag?


Thanks for the judgement.

All I have to work with is what you tell me.

 

[Doug99RS]

I'm guessing that since you've lubed all the components then you've also checked for fluid leaks.

I've worked on a couple of convertible tops (sebrings) and found leaking hydraulic lines. I don't know how the spyder system operates but the sebring is pretty simple. There's a two wire connector going to the pump. The pump is filled with hydraulic fluid. There's two ports on the pump, one on the top and one on the bottom, that exit the pump then "T" off. On the top T, the lines lead to the top of the hydraulic cylinders for the convertible top at the speaker area. The T on the bottom leads to the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders in the speaker area.

When you flip the switch to open the top, the current flows in one direction, the hydraulic fluid flows out of one of the T's (probably the top one pushing fluid in to the tops of the hydraulic cylinders to make the top open). When you attempt to close the top back, the current flows the opposite direction, the hydraulic fluid flows in the opposite direction and your top closes.

I don't know for sure what determines when the switch circuit is broken after the top is fully opened or closed. But I'm guessing it's probably got something to do with the hydraulic pump itself. If the pressure raises in the pump it's because the cylinders have moved to the end of their travel and the fluid can't flow anymore (causing a pressure build-up). It's possible that you have a fluid leak, air in the hydraulic lines, or a weak pump. The pump could be continuing to pump because it's not pushing enough fluid through the lines to build up enough pressure to cut the pump off and so it continues to run despite the position of the top.

If you think you have air in the lines, hit me up with a PM and I will find the TSB for the sebrings and print it off to give you instructions on how to bleed/check the fluid level.
Doug

 

[Defiant]

Spyders aren't hydraulic.

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

Originally posted by Naked Guy
I'm guessing only one of the two motors isn't doing it's share of the work, and I don't want to have to replace both if I don't have to.

replace them both... if you just put one new one in, the new one will be overworked, as the old one is just that... old... things like that you need to replace in pairs... you wouldn't only replace one worn corner of your brake system would you? or just replace one tire? just bite the bullet and replace them both.

 

[BoostedSpyder27]

on the same topic my convertable top motors are both shot so i was just wondering what they cost? i need them for summer! if anyone knowsa prices shoot back.....Late

 

[808_SpyderGST]

It might not be your convertible motors... About 16 months ago right after i bought my spyder (used) my convertible motors quit on me. I took it to the dealer and they said they dont do any work on the tops, so they sent me to a sub contractor, a convertible top shop. The guy there said it was my gear pins in the motors. See you have your electric motor and then a pin that locks the gears to the motor. In my case and he said many others those pins will break. When the break you will get that sound of the motors still winding when the top i close or open all the way. He replaced the ger pins and i had no porblems....

then 2 months later same problem, then 4 months later smae problem, once again 2 onths later same problem and it just did it again!!!!!!!! Luckly he offered a year wrranty on his work... however that year is up now. So i'm gonna get new motors however there exspensive as ####!!! so i looked into after-market vehicle warrantys. They cover the motors and for the price of 2 new motors i can get a warranty!!!!!!!!! and then i'll get my new motors though that. well that s my drama so check those gear pins