Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications
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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
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You souldn't wait for the RTV to dry, then it won't seal properly. A torque wrench isn't neccesary for the oil pan bolts. Just tighten them until they are snug, then give them an extra quarter turn. That will be sufficient. Torque spec is probably about 7 ft/lbs just off the top of my head.
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Dave
I miss my DSM :(
-I have better luck with gray RTV, instead of running even a bead like the instruction said, I apply the silicone in sections on BOTH surfaces then spread them out evenly with my finger, it's faster this way, so the RTV doesn't dry up b4 assembling. don't forget to put the shorter bolts underneath the timing belt area.
They have a torque value, but unless you have an inch-pounds torque wrench, don't try it. They just tighten up snug, and just a little tweak more. Make sure your pan surface is flat, best to test it on a piece of glass (don't let mom catch you pressing it up against the sliding glass door onto the patio). Best tool I've found for this kind of work is a palm driver, one of those ones you can wrap your fingers over and get a really good feel for how the tension is doing.
also be sure to use the lube how they specify, I belive you apply it to the threads and also to the face surface of the fastners, (the area that seats against the head and presses down) due to the fact that without the lube on that spot the toruqe value you see will be differnt due to the high amounts of friction when tighting them down. As you can tell I do not know the really technical words so if some one would like to give a actuall definition I would greatly apprecaite it.
If you are talking about the ARP head "studs", then you can safely torque them to 90 ft lbs.. That's what mine are. The studs should be hand tightened into the block. Only the nuts should be torqued.
Originally posted by forcedfedgsx it says on the in the kit 65 with lube, 70 with oil. or is my head gonna fall off? 90 lbs?
The 65-70m ft lbs is the stock torque value. If you are going to be running higher levels of boost you can safely torque the nuts to 100 ft lbs. you don't have to though. the 90 ftlbs works for me up to 20 lbs without head gasket problems.I'm using a stock style head gasket and have had no problems. Many guys here have had blown gaskets right after changimg the head. Some attribute that to improper or low head bolt torque settings. hope this helps. If in doubt, ask a DSM wiseman.
good luck.
Bell housing bolts, size and torque [Merged 2-9] bolt trans
Where should I look for them and what size are they. My tranny gets hard to shift because they were loose and I had someone tighten them for me and it cleared everything up, but now it seems they may be loose again. I'm going to try some locktite.
I bought some from the hardware store for 25 cents each. They have held up fine so far in my girls 92' talon N/T. The bolts are tens except for the one that is closest to the fire wall and comes in from the driver side which is an eight. not sure on the lengths.Mitsurapists want $6.00 each for the damn bolts
Thanks, but actually I was referring to where I can find them on the car itself. I just need to put some locktite on them and then tighten them down again.
I was wondering what the torque specs are for the pressure plate, and flywheel. I have looked around on the vfaq and chiltons and could not find it. I need to know what you torque the flywheel bolts too. And how you torque the pressure plate to the flywheel. I have an act flywheel and 2600 by the way. Thanks for the help.
thanks i did not see that. The dowel pin on the crank does not fit in my act flywheel i think the hole is a little smaller can i just drill a slightley larger hole there to make it fit or should i just tighten it on with it tight like that. And i will check the chiltons again but i dont recal what it was, it just did not seem like i was reading it right, i thought it said something like28 ft/lbs or something in that range. And is that the torque once you have the pressure plate already flush on the flywheel. Thanks for the input again.
i am looking for the torque spec's for the head bolt, i cant find it on the internet, i need some help, but i need to find it pretty quick, thanks for the help hopefully
Either one is fine. I use a air gun to put mine on with the 3rd setting till the damn bolts are nice and snug. Just make sure you don't tighten it down at that setting the first time. Personally its gonna take alot of arm strenth to get it that tight so good luck. Use a start pattern tightening each bolt down a litlle at a time.
Call ARP at 800-826-3045 or 805.339.2200 and they will be able to give you the exact torque.
and I agree with what 4wd-Eclipse did. Use a step up set of torque so there is a more even torque load. Also you should retorque the head as he did. But ARP told me that you don't have to break the car in, you can just let the car run until it has competely warmed up (fan turned on a few times), then let it cool down completely, like overnight, then you can retorque the head.