How does this rust look?

[juntjoo]

Would you replace it or do I still have some life left? Is it repairable? looks like you'd need a lot of intricate rotary tool attachments and hrs of grinding. What are your thoughts? The last two are the sub frame and it looks like rust mostly at seams.

 

[5150DSM]

I'd probably replace the mount and clean up and repaint the subframe. Anything you find in a Florida junk yard will probably look the same but if you could snatch the pieces from a less rusty wrecked car that is another possible solution.

 

[Blue37]

Replace what you can, and grind down what rust you can't just replace (grind only rust off, not too far and put a sealer over it, a product called POR-15 works great because it actually works with rust to prevent it, just don't get any of it on your hands if you use it...It takes a long time for it to come off...

 

[combs-dsm]

I would see how deep the rust is first. And heck to see it and of the paint if bubbled becuase thats were rust might be as well. To see how bad the rust is , just take a wire brush for a drill and just do a small part to save your time. If its to bad and you question yourself if itll be ok. Then thats prob time to replace them.

 

[T is for TURBO]

It doesn't looks that bad. Media blast it, then repaint it. Don't waste your time with grinders or rust converters.

 

[Blue37]

It doesn't looks that bad. Media blast it, then repaint it. Don't waste your time with grinders or rust converters.

After seeing this post, I second just sand-blasting and repainting it.

 

[NHerron]

Pretty rusty?

*Edit
I'd try a couple different size wire wheels/cups and see how far down the rust goes. Based on the damage either replace it or media blast and follow up with POR-15. I would not simply repaint, solely based on the possiblilty of having rust peek through and having to pull that bigmamajama out again. It only takes a tiny hole for rust to start again under the paint and bubble out. Or rocks chip the paint and open up a hole for rust again. If you notice underneath there is already stuff similar to POR-15 everywhere...

 

[goodhart]

that looks like a 4 year old car up here in salty MN.

It's fine, wire wheel it, hit it with some spray paint and let er buck!

 

[T is for TURBO]

Guys, a wire wheel will not work worth a damn... There are to many tight spaces and corners, and that metal is going to be pitted like crazy. The only way to get rid of the rust completely is to media blast it.

 

[NHerron]

No that's not what I meant.

Wire wheel it to see how far down the rust goes. It's for a visual indicator. If it's not too bad THEN media blast etc.

At least that's how I go about it when I work on the big offroad trucks here in the northern oilfields. Trailers are a day to day issue.

 

[Techmonster23]

Replace what you can then media blast and repaint whatever is left. It doesn't look irreparable from the pics. Good luck!

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks a lot for the tips, sand blast, don't blast, wire brush, this chemical, that chemical, no chemical, I think I'll sand paper and wire brush beat I can since I don't have a media blaster (don't think I've ever even seen one. Most of you guys have garages? Blasters just for repainting things?), then use that coat mentioned then coat with whatever you guys suggested for rust since I don't ever want to go back there. And paint? There a special kind for auto parts right? Thanks!

 

[goodhart]

Any way you want to do it, it's not like the engine will fall out of the car. You could likely run that thing for another 20 years without any issues. Don't let all the people that live in southern states that have never seen rust scare you.

 

[juntjoo]

Hmm.. Really? I've never really taken notice of the rust factor. This car is actually from Tennessee, which I'm guessing is where most of the rust came from. And I've read that the salt also from the atmosphere(in the more northern states?) is a big part of the problem. So rusting in general down here in FL shouldn't be a regular issue(don't we have a lot of salt down here surrounded by ocean?), like rust shouldn't persist or progress too much down here? we do have our rainy season, which is coming up, so I think I'll definitely at least do that rust treatment mentioned. I'll need the paint then too tho correct? It's like the outer armor no, at least for non-cosmetic parts?

 

[goodhart]

No, we use the salt on our roads up here to melt ice and snow for our 6-7 month winters.

 

[Blue37]

Yeah up in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan we deal with rust a lot as well. Like Goodhart said, it will last for a while, but rust is always better when you take care of it as soon as it is there.

 

[NHerron]

Well if you don't have access to any blast cleaning equipment, I would wire wheel with various wheels etc maybe a dremel too then even if you don't get it all, POR 15 will take care of the rest

Also, there is a special can called self-etching primer and it's used on bare clean metal. Very good primer, a bit expensive but you'll probably only need one can. Just another option

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks. Just took some time researching sand blasters, from homemade ones on up. Looks simple enough, so next step: sandblast... then I'll look into primers

 

[juntjoo]

Hey, hopefully someone can help; I've been shopping air compressors and I'm trying to figure out the purpose of twin stack ones. I'm hoping they allow you to charge one tank while using the other. Is that right? If not, would that be useful or is there another solution to having wait each time you need more air?

Edit: or do I have it all wrong assuming you can't recharge an air compressor while you're using it? In which case, so as long as you're near electrical socket you're good right?