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6bolt swap almost dies

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gst noob

10+ Year Contributor
100
0
Jul 11, 2012
Waterloo, Iowa
Ok I just did a 6 bolt swap on my awd spyder and I'm having one small issue when I come down off of high Rpm's the rpms drop way down to nave 200 and the car almost dies how can I fix this? Same thing happends if I'm driving let off the gas to shift and it almost dies but doesn't please help thanks!
 
Any CEL's? Check your throttle cable and see if the tb fully closes & opens correctly. One time, I had my cable tighten enough it would stay open & die when I'll let off the gas & etc.
 
The check engine light has been on ever sence I owned the car and I don't have a coad reader. I'm pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. A while back it was doing the same thing when I had a 7 bolt block and 6 bolt head it stopped after I swapped back. Could it be the vacuume sencor on top of the 7 bolt intake. What do I do with that once I 6 bolt swap iv head to plug it in and attach a vacuum line?? Thoughts?
 
You can take the car to any part store (Checker/O'Reiley's, Autozonte, etc.) and they can read the CEL for you and clear it out as well after you fix the issue causing it. Check the IAC and TPS too. If you swap the intake for a 6 bolt, leave the MDP plugged into the harness untill you get Link (link can disable it).
 
Yes iv got a 1g cas iv always had one even inmy 7 bolt but its very possible it's not exactly right. Is their any other way to time it with out a timing light? I don't have one I don't know any one with one and you can't rent them their 100+ to buy and use once.
 
Never touch my car... ROFL if only owning a dsm were that easy. Thanks guys ill check into a light.
 
Being that you posted this on the noob section - did you put an aftermarket lightened flywheel? Many noob's who install lightened flywheels make the mistake of not understanding that the rotating mass changes when doing this mod. This meaning that you can't let the revs go down when shifting gears as it will cause the revs to go very low or even have the motor die out. The whole point of the heavier oem flywheel is to keep the transition from one gear to the next as smooth as possible. In other words, you can take your time when shifting gears or can put the car on neutral without having to worry about the revs dropping too low or the motor dying out.
 
check your iac. coming off throttle while slowing down or between shifts, your iac should be open, in accordance to where your throttle was. as the rpms drop, your iac will "step" further closed, then cross to idle state, to prevent the car from bogging or dying completely. granted this all happens very fast. thats why with an osciliscope and or link you can check IAC counts.

good luck with it, get those codes checked
 
Ok I know this sounds stupid but I have to ask.... Is your blow off valve recirculated or vented. Vented will cause rich and kill the car when you let off the gas. Are you running the stock mass air flow or a gm maf
 
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