Oil lines off of Oil filter

[Mrbeast]

Hey guys, I'm lost like sh1t and could use a little help .... The two lines that come off of the oil filter, where are they suppose to connect too? Heres a pic of it (the two hoses that arent connected to anything). Sorry for the noob question, I did do a search though and couldnt find out the answer to this. Thanks for your time.

 

[matt1g]

They go to the oil cooler

 

[Fehrion_sit]

those are coolant lines, not oil lines. you have a 2g style oil cooler.

 

[1Gina2G]

The water lines that used to run there were probably purposley deleted / capped off or re-run to feed something else. It's actually best to remove the 2 lines that feed the water-to-oil cooler for 2 reasons:

1. In my OPINION as well as others, the water-to-oil cooler, is a flawed design. On a cold startup, and initially warming up, the water is alot colder then the oil naturally, so initially does really help with cooling the oil. The oil gets warm first which in turn also helps with getting to normal operating tempature quicker. Durring heavy/long driving though, your coolant can get alot hotter then your oil, and the hot oil puts a huge heat load on the coolant system. it's known that the air-to-oil coolers are much more effective, to where you are required to have an OIL THERMOSTAT so you don't start up with really cold oil!


2. reliability / failure prevention. If the cooler ever fails, you can very easily mix your oil with your coolant, without knowing it possibly. Best to eliminate this possibilty.

I have my water cooler still attaced to the cooler for spacing, but I put ruber plugs at the ends and zip tied them.

 

[spadepro22]

The water lines that used to run there were probably purposley deleted / capped off or re-run to feed something else. It's actually best to remove the 2 lines that feed the water-to-oil cooler for 2 reasons:

1. In my OPINION as well as others, the water-to-oil cooler, is a flawed design. On a cold startup, and initially warming up, the water is alot colder then the oil naturally, so initially does really help with cooling the oil. The oil gets warm first which in turn also helps with getting to normal operating tempature quicker. Durring heavy/long driving though, your coolant can get alot hotter then your oil, and the hot oil puts a huge heat load on the coolant system. it's known that the air-to-oil coolers are much more effective, to where you are required to have an OIL THERMOSTAT so you don't start up with really cold oil!


2. reliability / failure prevention. If the cooler ever fails, you can very easily mix your oil with your coolant, without knowing it possibly. Best to eliminate this possibilty.

I have my water cooler still attaced to the cooler for spacing, but I put ruber plugs at the ends and zip tied them.

What about a 1g? Does this apply?

 

[Mrbeast]

So then these two lines should go to the radiator? And thanks again for the replies

 

[19Eclipse90]

So then these two lines should go to the radiator? And thanks again for the replies

No.

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those are coolant lines, not oil lines. you have a 2g style oil cooler.

It's the exact same cooler as a 1G water cooled oil cooler.

The water lines that used to run there were probably purposley deleted / capped off or re-run to feed something else. It's actually best to remove the 2 lines that feed the water-to-oil cooler for 2 reasons:

1. In my OPINION as well as others, the water-to-oil cooler, is a flawed design. On a cold startup, and initially warming up, the water is alot colder then the oil naturally, so initially does really help with cooling the oil. The oil gets warm first which in turn also helps with getting to normal operating tempature quicker. Durring heavy/long driving though, your coolant can get alot hotter then your oil, and the hot oil puts a huge heat load on the coolant system. it's known that the air-to-oil coolers are much more effective, to where you are required to have an OIL THERMOSTAT so you don't start up with really cold oil!

On cold starts, the oil and water are going to be the exact same temperature. Engine oil has a lower thermal conductivity than water/coolant meaning the water will get warm before the oil. Normal operating temperature for ECU control is based on the water temperature; there are no measures of oil temperatures anywhere in these cars. During heavy driving (high loads), sure, your coolant will warm up. There is more energy being created during combustion in the form of heat that will be lost through heat transfer to the coolant (it does not come from the oil). That's why an efficient radiator is a necessity for road racing and the like. During long drives (low loads, long distances), your coolant temperature should remain fairly constant, depending on ambient temperatures. The air-cooled units have a bypass valve (not an oil thermostat) which helps the engine oil get up to operating temperature quicker by skipping the cooler altogether; it does not magically change the cold start temperature of the oil.

2. reliability / failure prevention. If the cooler ever fails, you can very easily mix your oil with your coolant, without knowing it possibly. Best to eliminate this possibilty.

If you mix oil and coolant, you're going to find out fairly quickly because it will only be a matter of time before something else fails. The cooler isn't a wear and tear item; if it is going to fail, it is most likely to fail because it was not properly secured when installed and cracked internally.

 

[Mrbeast]

DSM Wiseman, is there another pic to go with that diagram to say what numbers the parts are? Or perhaps you could provide a link to it? Sorry, im a bit confused. The pipe or part number "12" seems to be where both coolant lines end up going, but the only pipe I have that even looks like that is the one that goes from my radiator to (brain fart...) the part #6 on that diagram.

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Heres a pic of the top side to see what im talking about?

 

[Kalub]

I know on my 2.3l six bolt that I capped mine off. Not only did I not have the provisions on my water neck/pipe, but I did not care for the water cooled one. If my oil temperature is too hot, then I'll invest in a reputable Air cooled oil cooler.

 

[serviceguy]

DSM Wiseman, is there another pic to go with that diagram to say what numbers the parts are? Or perhaps you could provide a link to it? Sorry, im a bit confused. The pipe or part number "12" seems to be where both coolant lines end up going, but the only pipe I have that even looks like that is the one that goes from my radiator to (brain fart...) the part #6 on that diagram.

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Heres a pic of the top side to see what im talking about?

Part #12 is not visible in your pick because it runs under the exhaust manifold between the water pump and the thermostat housing (part #6). Only one of the hoses goes to part #12, the other one goes to part #8 (also running under the exhaust manifold) that connects to the thermostat neck of the thermostat housing.

 

[Mrbeast]

So if I just cap these oil cooler lines off then, would I need to do anything to where they would connect (the spots under the manifold)?

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes the water ports that they connect to.

Why do you want to dissconnect the oil cooler?

 

[Mrbeast]

Personally, I dont. I was just thinking that with a few of you saying its not worth having, I began to wonder if I should even go to Checkers and buy the hoses so that I could connect them... .

 

[19Eclipse90]

DSM Wiseman, is there another pic to go with that diagram to say what numbers the parts are? Or perhaps you could provide a link to it? Sorry, im a bit confused.

Like this?

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Please be sure to post if you are still confused. You may want to download the FSM as that is where these diagrams are coming from. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/324090-download-2g-service-manual.html

Personally, I dont. I was just thinking that with a few of you saying its not worth having, I began to wonder if I should even go to Checkers and buy the hoses so that I could connect them... .

If you don't want to get rid of it, then hook it back up. It isn't hurting anything. If you want to keep it blocked off, you'll still have to find or buy parts/components to block or loop the opposing ports for the cooler off at the thermostat housing and water pipe.

 

[Mrbeast]

Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated . And yes, something exactly like that would be great ^_^