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cracked fin on the transmission

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
Hey everyone, I was wondering if I could get some tips on sealing up my rebuilt transmission. It came back with the smallest chip ever on one of the fins right next to the passenger wheel. Not saying this transmission wasn't already chipped when I got it, but needless to say - it drips.

This is my concerns, I want to jb weld patch this since it's really small, and I don't have access to any welding equipment / people who do have it. The chip is so small, you couldn't get a q-tip or anything to wipe the inside dry of oil, so part of me wants to make the hole the tiniest bigger so I can properly prepare the surface..at the same time it sounds like a horrible idea.

does anyone know if the lucas stop leak works? to clog the leak? any info is apreciated..thanks
 
I'll get a picture on here tomorow when it's light outside. Basically on the transmissions, all around there are these "fins". One of the fins toward the bottom of the my transmission, behind the oil drain plug, and right next to the passenger wheel. It's the smallest chip ever.

It's actually so small, I would have to use a syringe needle to dispense the epoxy sealent to fill the crack, but still not sure how I would wipe the inside.

Was just reading about the stop leak, apprarently it's just thicker oil. For the manual trans. they say to just use the oil additive formula instead, might actually help in a way. Deffinatley isn't going to clog the leak though, even one this small.
 
I don't think the fins are hollow, I have one by the drain plug completely broken off and there are no leaks, I don't see how it could leak from a small chip, it would have to go all the way through the case. are you sure its not leaking from somewhere else?
 
Intresting. I know it's deffinatley coming from the very tip of the fin. I actually thought it was coming from the different peices of the transmission that meet together, since it would drip from the side and roll and collect at the bottom before it drips.

Spent alot of time watching and wiping the leaks and I know it has to be this small chip.

what's actually suprising out of everything, is the fact that I'm still getting drips from the transmission, even though I completey drained everything 5 days ago, with the drain plug still removed. Like there's some small puddle of oil inside that's not draining right because of the angle, so today I jacked up the car from the rear differntial in hopes of getting a better draining angle but it appears to actually slowed up.

I'll probably have to jack it up high from the front and keep it there for a few days to keep any oil from dripping, but yet again, how do I wipe off the oil from inside? I wish I could just weld/ braze it and I don't just want to have weld on the very exterior it might not hold long..

if you didn't install the trans then bring it to a place where they can weld it .

The transmission is fully installed, in the car. Everythings hooked up..
 
there are other ways to find leaks one is a smoke machine and another is air pressure with soapy water . i don't think you have a smoke machine but maybe yo have an air compressor . you don't want to use high pressure all you need is a little with a air blower with a rubber tip .there is is also another way that i forgot is with oil dye with an ultraviolet light and yellow safety glasses .
 
Leaking from the fin doesn't sound right to me either. The way I see it is your going to have to live with it or the tranny is coming out and pulled apart. Or you can try some "Mighty Puddy".
 
Just to clarify, I don't need to do anymore re-checking of where the leak was coming from, I rechecked around the entire area of the cracked fin and there is nothing else cracked, scuffed, or damaged other then the noted cracked fin. It may seem unlikely, but I know for a fact that gear oil is coming out of this cracked fin, I've watched it multiple times after wiping and wiping the oil off.

Here are the pictures, I took the wheel off and jaked up the car, won't be able to get better pics without taking the transmission out.

This is as close as I can get to the cracked fin without being too blurry. You may be able to see the yellowish oil draining down along the fin.

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The next fin up, at the top is uncracked, the cracked one is below. Even though it's alot harder to see in the pictures, there's a clear oil path from the crack that runs and drips at the bottom.

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The same pic but without the editing for more detail:

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You can remove that part of the case without taking the transmission out of the car. I would drain the trans, remove that part of the case and clean it up and check the inside to see if you can see if the crack goes all the way through. If the crack goes all the way through you can take it and have it welded and put the side cover back on with some gray RTV and it should be fine.
 
It would be a MIRACLE if I was given the chance to take this peice off the transmission itself, I would deffinatley be able to fix the leak that way.

So nothing inside would come apart if I ONLY took that 1 piece off? I have no experience or knowledge of anything inside the actual transmission, and this is is fully rebuilt so I wouldn't want to mess anything up.

thanks for the reply
 
If you take that piece off you will have the end case and intermediate case loose. Be careful not to break the seal on the intermediate bearing plate. Just the end case is all you want to remove. The only piece that will come off would be the reverse synchro and wavy washer which fit on the cone in the end case. If you do end up buying an end case they are NOT all the same. The oil guide fits into a groove in the end of the case and it's an attached metal piece. If you buy another case make sure this end piece is the same. It's a piece of cake. Do NOT put a bunch of rtv on it when you reassemble. A bead is not necessary. A thin smear works well. Think putting on chapstick kinda thick.
 
If you take that piece off you will have the end case and intermediate case loose. Be careful not to break the seal on the intermediate bearing plate. Just the end case is all you want to remove. The only piece that will come off would be the reverse synchro and wavy washer which fit on the cone in the end case. If you do end up buying an end case they are NOT all the same. The oil guide fits into a groove in the end of the case and it's an attached metal piece. If you buy another case make sure this end piece is the same. It's a piece of cake. Do NOT put a bunch of rtv on it when you reassemble. A bead is not necessary. A thin smear works well. Think putting on chapstick kinda thick.

Do you happen to have any pictures or links to show what I'll be seeing? Are the peices specially put in or wound up? Or do they just push-in?
 
They just sit there. Look in the factory service manual. It's not a big deal.

Usually the transmission is bellhousing down when it's assembled. The is nothing to hold the synchro in place. The wavy washer will stay on it's own on the cone. Will be self explanatory when you see it. If the synchro must be held in place a little dab of grease would do it.
 
Okay everyone, this morning I was able to take off all the bolts holding that part of the case in, and removed the outer peice I needed to fix from the inside out.


This is the only thing now, Since the peice was nice and sealed tight on the transmisson, it didn't come off right away. But when I did manage to bump it off with the rubber mallet, I accidently bumped off one of the gears, and it fell off before I had any chance to see how it was installed. I tried to figure it out but the gear really fits in both ways, so not postive which way it goes in.

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I just took out the case on my trans and that gear goes in like you pointed on the first picture. The three large outer notches correspond with the three that are on the trans.

Thanks so much for the clarification, it feels so relieveing to read a post like that from someone who's worked on the transmissions recently. :D :thumb:

much appreciated :thumb:
 
I guess I wasn't clear enough. THe only loose pieces are the synchro and the wavy washer as stated above. The synchro will only fit one way and it should be obvious but for brevity it is like your first picture. You'll notice the notches will fit where the keys are. The wavy washer can stay on the case and you'll notice the two pins keep it from spinning. If the synchro doesn't stay in place hold it there with a few dabs of grease. The grease wont' hurt anything.
 
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