first start has low oil pressure need some help.

3kgt2nv · 08-22-2012, 06:42 PM

Here is some background info

fresh build with new everything. all clearances were mic'ed at the shop and plastigauged to verify.

no oil leaks anywhere

I just took the pan off to inspect the bse bearings and they are installed properly.

I do not have the oil squirters installed and there are no plugs in the holes.

oil filter housing was ported

cranked the car for about 15 to 30 seconds before i activated fuel pump and started the car. got to 15 psi of oil pressure and after 30 seconds of running thats where it stopped.

Now since this is a first start on a cold motor i expected to see 40-60 psi at cold idle.

my question is by not plugging the oil squirter holes could that be causing the low oil pressure or is it possible i just need to reprime the oil pump after i get the car back together from checking the bse bearings tonight.

to check the oil pressure i am using a prosport evo gauge off the oil filter housing in place of the stock gauge sending unit.

only have tomorrow morning to put car back together and test things out so any input is helpful.

thanks
Matt

3kgt2nv · 08-22-2012, 11:50 PM

bump. looking for help im reassembling the block today and need some help

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 12:59 AM

Quote:

I do not have the oil squirters installed and there are no plugs in the holes

my question is by not plugging the oil squirter holes could that be causing the low oil pressure or is it possible i just need to reprime the oil pump after i get the car back together from checking the bse bearings tonight.

Looks like you're in some deep shiz. You needed to plug those, I would not start the car again in fear of spinning a rod bearing.

Thread size is M12 x 1.25 pitch x roughly 12MM in length. Clean the threads with brake cleaner and use LocTite. Also use a copper crush washer under the bolt head and torque to specs (22-25 FT-LBS)

This is the oil circuit. The jets/squirters are threaded directly into the main galley so if there is nothing to stop the oil, oil never makes it past the main galley.

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 01:03 AM

I was thinking thats where my issue was going to be. When i first started it i figured i misaligned the balance shaft blocking bearings or the machine shop realigned them. i just pulled the pan and looked at them with a mirror last night and verified they were installed correctly. since i have the oil pan off i do have a set of oil squirters i could put in but im thinking about just blocking them off.

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 01:11 AM

I think MAYBE you can get them installed with the engine still in the car but I can't remember for sure. You would have to rotate the crank around a few times and also make sure the squirters dowel pin goes in the alignment hole. The squirters use two aluminum crush washers.

Are you on cast pistons or forged?

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 01:33 AM

its a built motor with all forged components. the head was soaked in bg assembly lube but seeing the diagram makes sense now why i was having trouble seeing oil in the head.

i could get the oil squirters in with the crank in the block but i am still leaning towards just plugging the holes

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 01:43 AM

Technically you don't need squirters on forged components, you can see that with a search, and Wiseco will say they aren't 100% required either. But a little extra cooling for reliability will never hurt. I kept mine.

Another thing, which I have yet to start a thread on, is how the oil filter works. Oil filters bypass oil when the filter gets plugged, OR when pressure is high enough such as during cold starts. So we block off balance shafts bearings and plug up the squirters to get increased oil pressure. With this in mind, it's possible our filters only work now rarely.

I really need to start a thread to get other peoples thoughts on this.

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 02:05 AM

ok i might put the squirters in, but if high pressure bypasses the filter anyway then i dont see much point as this is a track / infrequent street car. ill let it warm up fully before driving and i change the oil after every track day or about 250 miles of street driving the same as I did with my 3000gt vr4.

If i do plug the holes and i see stupid high oil pressures i could always swap out the plugs for squirters.

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 02:11 AM

Oh okay yeah I wouldn't worry about the oil filter thing then if it's a track car. I'll try to get that thread moving here sometime soon if you're interested.

Good luck with install, and hopefully oil doesn't drip on ya too much being under there

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 02:15 AM

ok thanks for the help.

last night i got a golden shower to the face from looking at the bse bearings.

at least this will hopefully solve all the issues im having and the car will be ready to drive now.

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 02:21 AM

Oh man I would not be happy under there.

Everything sounds good to me from your first post, I wouldn't worry about the whole priming thing if you got everything with assembly lube. Besides, pressure will kick up within a couple seconds running no matter what.

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 02:25 AM

all right sounds promising. now just to plug the holes and clean the rtv off the block and pan and reseal everything and put it all back together and running in one day

NHerron · 08-23-2012, 02:31 AM

Good luck, hope that clears up the issues. And watch those two shorter bolts near the timing belt

3kgt2nv · 08-23-2012, 02:34 AM

yeah im buying a new set of bolts as soon as the fastener store opens so i can start the process of getting it back together.

figures this happened after just getting the car all back together and running. oh well if thats the last suprise the car is going to give me ill be ok with this.