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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 07-21-2012, 10:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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1995 Eclipse Gs-t oil pan gasket change


Just trying to clear this up.

The oil pan on the Gs-t is just simply removing the bolts and lowering the pan out of the car(after draining oil) correct?

Thank you.


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Old 07-21-2012, 11:04 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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No, you have to remove the support beam as well. And may have to drop the exhaust from the downpipe.

Be lucky you don't have an Automatic 1G AWD. Support beam, exhaust, driver side axle, and some other stuff needs removed.


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Old 07-21-2012, 11:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Also to properly seal the pan you don't use a gasket you will want to use a bead of grey rtv to seal it.

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Old 07-22-2012, 12:20 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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I've never had to drop the support beam. Just the exhaust, driver axle carrier bearing, and maybe some other random stuff. I second using only a bead of RTV.

Also keep track of the two shorter bolts that go into the timing cover.


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Old 07-22-2012, 12:32 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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There are two specific bolts to keep track of, which the picture attached outlines. Otherwise the correct length bolts may be mixed up with longer ones and cause damage to the timing belt in a groove like way. The picture also recommends RTV to be used as already stated. The oil drain for the turbo which attaches to pan uses crush type washers under the bolt heads.
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:57 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Thanks again guys, this will hopefully be a successful afternoon lol
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:59 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Another good RTV is made by Porsche. Pricey but has never let me down.

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Old 07-22-2012, 08:13 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourgsixthree33 View Post
No, you have to remove the support beam as well. And may have to drop the exhaust from the downpipe.

Be lucky you don't have an Automatic 1G AWD. Support beam, exhaust, driver side axle, and some other stuff needs removed.
I have a straight shot at the oil pan, which support beam are you speaking of?
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:36 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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He means the beam that the front engine mount is on, this you dont have to do but the down pipe is a must! I used the gasket jnztuning sent me which is cork and ive not had any leaks and i did that about a year ago now. Rtv is still ok to use, i just prefered a gasket as its better to get off again and seals 100% where you might miss a section on the rtv,

Either way its upto you, only the DP and gearbox inspection cover needs to be moved and NOTHING else


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Old 07-22-2012, 08:48 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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The Best RTV I have used is made by toyota and is FIPG, you want the motor stuff (Black) but they also make a trans one thats (pink) and stays a Little softer.
Dave

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Old 07-22-2012, 08:48 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ec17pse View Post
He means the beam that the front engine mount is on, this you dont have to do but the down pipe is a must! I used the gasket jnztuning sent me which is cork and ive not had any leaks and i did that about a year ago now. Rtv is still ok to use, i just prefered a gasket as its better to get off again and seals 100% where you might miss a section on the rtv,

Either way its upto you, only the DP and gearbox inspection cover needs to be moved and NOTHING else
Yep, the support beam under the car that runs from the front engine mount to the rear of the engine and attaches to the sub-frame.

I had to remove this on mine. Maybe I didn't HAVE to but it made it easier. If you remove this, the triangular support piece near the right front wheel needs removed as well.


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Old 07-22-2012, 09:55 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHerron View Post
There are two specific bolts to keep track of, which the picture attached outlines. Otherwise the correct length bolts may be mixed up with longer ones and cause damage to the timing belt in a groove like way. The picture also recommends RTV to be used as already stated. The oil drain for the turbo which attaches to pan uses crush type washers under the bolt heads.
Thank you for the diagram. I will be using it during assembly of my motor.


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Old 07-22-2012, 11:13 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourgsixthree33 View Post
Yep, the support beam under the car that runs from the front engine mount to the rear of the engine and attaches to the sub-frame.

I had to remove this on mine. Maybe I didn't HAVE to but it made it easier. If you remove this, the triangular support piece near the right front wheel needs removed as well.
no you really dont need to remove them lol it was NOT tight for me or a pain and i was on the floor aswell, im not sure i follow on this triangular piece as i never took anything off but the DP and gearbox inspection cover and i did the whole job with only them items off, maybe if you can link me a pic of what you mean just for reference,


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Old 07-22-2012, 11:40 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Can you not use the red rtv?


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Old 07-22-2012, 11:41 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSTurbo1 View Post
Can you not use the red rtv?
You could, but it is probably the worst type of rtv that you can use. Grey is a way better choice.

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