Its ALL about air temps!!!

[boost97gst]

So, all of you know this but i got my first real kick tonight.
Was trying to tune in the insane heat(110 ambient) and was getting knock, car was running at 216, 223 on the hwy etc...
I was pulling in air that was in the 115 range. Well, tonight i got some 84* air to do some runs on. Holy mother of god. Must be a 75whp kick. I was able to run on 93 oct up to almost 25psi in 3rd with little knock. I know this is so obvious but im tellin the noobs, it matters like you wouldnt believe. Next upgrade is some severe ducting to my intake. I think in 60* temps i can get close to 30psi on my turbo. Thatd be over 400whp if my estimates are correct. Its crazy fast tonight with the intaketemps at 84* WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOO, when this POS runs, GOD damn i love it!!! Its worth the 11k i have in it, rattly and all i stil love her

btw, these are obv not IAT's, theyre intaketemp measured at the 2gmaf through link. My IATs im sure where quite higher but nonetheless, colder air in, colder air(much denser) after the IC.

[H@xtGSX]

Air temp affects the MAF a lot. I have noticed the same thing. Cold air in the morning makes the car drive like a missile... Then, in the 100f air in the afternoon, its a slug in comparison.

[boost97gst]

Only problem i noticed was my closed loop trims are a bit off. Combinedft is off. I guess cause i tuned it at ridiculous high temps and now im feding it nice cold dense air. It really doesnt matter much, still runs perfect in closed and open loop. Open loop maf comps need just a slight tweak and i need to learn how to start modifying my timing DAs and compensating for spool time etc.. Im still a novice, but im learning

[ed1380]

Colder air is denser. More air=more fuel=more power. Hotter IAT will also increase chance of knock.

[BrokenTsi]

This is a perfect example of why its good to have a GOOD intercooler. You got your basic FMIC kits that will work OK at best and are very easy on the wallet, but an intercooler that utilizes a real core such as Garrett...can go a long way. Air ducting is a great way to get cold air into the turbo. Do you have any logs for us?

[boost97gst]

I will, theyre on my netbook i use in my car exclusively. I need critique, but please, dont pay too much attention to the combinedfts, they were fine before but with the denser air, things need a bit of adjustment. Also my boost is showing 32psi but gauge is at 25, i dont think i can do much about that but i dont likehow it throw off my lb/min reading. im showing around 55lbs in a good 2nd gr pull but its reading 30psi roughly.

[fourgsixthree33]

Originally Posted by boost97gst

I will, theyre on my netbook i use in my car exclusively. I need critique, but please, dont pay too much attention to the combinedfts, they were fine before but with the denser air, things need a bit of adjustment. Also my boost is showing 32psi but gauge is at 25, i dont think i can do much about that but i dont likehow it throw off my lb/min reading. im showing around 55lbs in a good 2nd gr pull but its reading 30psi roughly.

Where is your Boost Gauge tapped into?

[turboglenn]

So true, on my car (dyno'd 507 full pull before breaking at 522 pulll at 6500RPM) but if i go out on a hotter night where intake temps at the throttle body (i'm speed density) are over 100-105 then i pick up knock a bit, but if the air i in the 70's - highn 80's there's a huge difference, my FMIC will bring temps to about ambient (or within 3* of) when moving along at highway speeds (even when WIDE open i cna come cooler from heat soaking in traffic)

BUt with those temps and coolant in the 195-198* range there's a large knock difference between 75* intake and 175-180 coolant temps (i have 180-* t-stat)

everyone has explained why, but to me it's the reason spring and fall are my favorite driving seasons, there's still traction but the air is a git from god for the car's enjoyment

[boost97gst]

Originally Posted by fourgsixthree33

Where is your Boost Gauge tapped into?

Throttle body.

[BigKnick]

Totally not related to dsm's but if you ever ride a snowmobile around 32 f and then again around 0f ...it's like going from a moped to a rocket ship...pretty cool, literally!

[boost97gst]

Originally Posted by turboglenn

So true, on my car (dyno'd 507 full pull before breaking at 522 pulll at 6500RPM) but if i go out on a hotter night where intake temps at the throttle body (i'm speed density) are over 100-105 then i pick up knock a bit, but if the air i in the 70's - highn 80's there's a huge difference, my FMIC will bring temps to about ambient (or within 3* of) when moving along at highway speeds (even when WIDE open i cna come cooler from heat soaking in traffic)

BUt with those temps and coolant in the 195-198* range there's a large knock difference between 75* intake and 175-180 coolant temps (i have 180-* t-stat)

everyone has explained why, but to me it's the reason spring and fall are my favorite driving seasons, there's still traction but the air is a git from god for the car's enjoyment

Damn thats a ton of HP!
Well, i was looking through the logs. Looks like 3rd gear pulls at 25psi on pump might have to wait for some 60* air. It just doesnt like it. Even at 10.8:1 afr. It blew the spark out for one(gapped .020, might have to go lower,br7es), then showed about 3.5*knock ret. Which is waaaay to much at that HP level. I run the stant tstat 170* as well and it helps a little.
Best i could get, without ducting, on the hwy last night was 193* coolant temps.
Did see it shoot down to 186 for a little bit though so not too bad. Im still on evo8 mod1 stock DA timing. I may have to richen my spool up and perhaps pull a degree in spool. I just need some nice weather!! iTs hot again today, damn lol

[Kapok6]

Originally Posted by boost97gst

Damn thats a ton of HP!
Well, i was looking through the logs. Looks like 3rd gear pulls at 25psi on pump might have to wait for some 60* air. It just doesnt like it. Even at 10.8:1 afr. It blew the spark out for one(gapped .020, might have to go lower,br7es), then showed about 3.5*knock ret. Which is waaaay to much at that HP level. I run the stant tstat 170* as well and it helps a little.
Best i could get, without ducting, on the hwy last night was 193* coolant temps.
Did see it shoot down to 186 for a little bit though so not too bad. Im still on evo8 mod1 stock DA timing. I may have to richen my spool up and perhaps pull a degree in spool. I just need some nice weather!! iTs hot again today, damn lol

Proper operating temp is 206f. You don't want your motor in the 186-193 range. Get you temp up to 206f THEN tune.

[boost97gst]

no, im sorry but at 210 the ecu will pull timing. I think most people shoot for op temps of 185. I dont want to be that close to 210 unless i have to be. Coolant temps also effect knock, ive seen it first hand. I know not to run the engine at 150 but i think most would agree, low 180s is a sweet spot.

[1990AWD]

I thought it was higher than 210 where the ECU starts pulling timing, I mean, our cars run ~200-205 stock.

IMO, as long as you're running warm enough to be going into closed loop, you should be okay.