Lets talk cooling

Bud92gsx · 07-05-2012, 08:41 PM

Like the title states.Lets talk cooling.

As in fans.Pusher, puller no matter.

Had my car ideling for a while today..All of the following were hot= Ic,lower ic pipe,compressor housing,front oil lines,oil cooler, front sheet metal.

Not overheating=Car itself.

So for excessive ideling can/should we add a fan in front of coolers, and IC?

I would almsot bet I'm about the only one who cares.But it's worth a shot.

phunny · 07-05-2012, 09:11 PM

Pullers if you have the room. If you want good fans you'll probably need a better alternator though.

blizz99 · 07-05-2012, 09:19 PM

I have both eBay pusher and puller fans. Even with a whole bottle of water wetter and 160 degree thermostat the car gets pretty hot. My temp goes to about 210-215 after a pull then driving back home. Regular driving, it'll be between 190-205'ish. Those numbers are with 90 degree weather and a 3.5" fmic.

bryzenga · 07-05-2012, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blizz99

I have both eBay pusher and puller fans. Even with a whole bottle of water wetter and 160 degree thermostat the car gets pretty hot. My temp goes to about 210-215 after a pull then driving back home. Regular driving, it'll be between 190-205'ish. Those numbers are with 90 degree weather and a 3.5" fmic.

I'm in the same boat. Havnt had too much of an issue until it started to get 95+ ambient temps. Cruising got as hot as 220 F and had to pull off to let her cool down. Need to start finding a way to get more cooling going on. Going to look into better ducting/shrouding and an all-aluminum radiator.

MichaelSuch · 07-05-2012, 09:26 PM

Mine is about the same as Blizz. Even with fans on full time. These cars just run hot it seems like. All of mine were like that. Running a Mishimoto radiator, two 12" SPAL fans that are constantly on, water wetter, new OEM Mitsu water pump, a 160* tstat. At night or when its cooler in the 60's it runs about 185-190. During the day at 90* plus weather its 205 sometimes up to 215*. We need a way to vent hot underhood air and get good cool air flowing to the radiator I believe.

jrohner · 07-05-2012, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud92gsx

Had my car ideling for a while today..All of the following were hot= Ic,lower ic pipe,compressor housing,front oil lines,oil cooler, front sheet metal.

So you're saying that when you car sits and idles the underhood temps get high. I would think it's odd if that didn't happen. What do you expect? Hot air from the radiators blowing in, hot manifold, hot engine, why would you expect things to not be hot?

Bud92gsx · 07-05-2012, 09:32 PM

I'm actually on a 5 speed alternator.It seems to run all the acc pretty well..

I also have 90% leds as well.I'm still missing a few tho.

Cost is not the issue when your talking about function..Even to my cheap ass.Unless there 100$ a fan.

I expect all that stuff to be hot..But To find a way to cure it using know how, and of course $.Now that means more to me than the time or money.

jrohner · 07-05-2012, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud92gsx

Had my car ideling for a while today..All of the following were hot. . . oil lines,oil cooler

You wouldn't want cold oil

Bud92gsx · 07-05-2012, 09:40 PM

Ha ha ha..Not cold oil but not a hot ic, hot sheet metal, etc..And just not so hot oil and such..

During driving.I'm not worried about..The dremel took care of that.

DSMnOOb00 · 07-05-2012, 10:01 PM

Well when I had cooling issues, I got myself a radiator shroud and with dsmlink set to keep the fans on , Pretty much solved all my cooling issues.

1+ on a bottle of water wetter too

bryzenga · 07-05-2012, 10:09 PM

I know that I deffinately need to isolate the front of my radiator from the rest of the bay. Cutting into the radiator support exposes the front side of the radiator which leads me to believe a lot of cooling problems happen because of that. I really have no clue as to what really happens to airflow underneath the hood, but my theory is that the heat rolling off of an open manifold gets circulated back around the cut-out portion of the radiator support and goes through the front-side of the radiator. The cycle keeps going and acts like a convection oven. My car tends to run hotter the longer it is ran... and having a front-mount deffinately doesnt help the airflow through the radiator for obvious reasons. Having a properly ducted/shrouded setup is probably the answer to many of these "running hot" issues.

phunny · 07-06-2012, 02:54 AM

With the proper fans and some ducting there is no reason that your car should ever go over 200*. On a hot day at the track even with my AIT's at 160 my car will not go over 193*. Stock thermostat, 50/50 mix and the fans aren't always on. I also have a large FMIC and still have the A/C condenser.

blizz99 · 07-06-2012, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunny

With the proper fans and some ducting there is no reason that your car should ever go over 200*. On a hot day at the track even with my AIT's at 160 my car will not go over 193*. Stock thermostat, 50/50 mix and the fans aren't always on. I also have a large FMIC and still have the A/C condenser.

What fans and ducting are you running?

Mrdiamondstars · 07-06-2012, 05:20 AM

Inquiring minds would like to know. I don't have a problem with cooling until i'm in extensive stop and go traffic with the a/c blowing

phunny · 07-06-2012, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blizz99

What fans and ducting are you running?

Here you go.
New cooling setup, spal fans

Tyeler18 · 07-06-2012, 06:01 AM

Like stated, ducting is the key to cooling. A properly setup fan shroud can increase radiator efficiency by up to 40% everyone seems to think that bolting 2 1500cfm slim fans to a radiator will solve their cooling issues, when in reality, the stock fan shroud and fans are almost more efficient. Space is obviously a large factor though.

Jmonet1620 · 07-06-2012, 06:22 AM

Just for reference I run a aluminum 3 row radiator, 160* tstat, 2-12" spal pusher fans, external oil cooler, no AC, a large FMIC and 50/50 water mix with no additives. My fans are set to kick on at 190* via dsmlink and only do so at idle. I also have ducting of any kind nor did I seal around the radiator like I have seen some people do. The past week has been in excess of 100* here and my coolant temps have not went over 200* no matter how much I beat on her. Driving down the highway I see around 170* temps. Around town 30-40 mph I see ~185* temps and sitting at idle it hits 190* then the fans kick on and the temps starts to drop right away.

Edit: I should also mention that my engine bay doesnt seem as hot as it did on a stock cooling system and the inside of the car by my feet feels ALOT cooler than it did on the stock system.

boost97gst · 07-06-2012, 06:58 AM

Its been unusually hot everywhere. We're all experiencing hot temps.
Jmonet, Perhaps the lack of an ac condenser is helping you maintain those low temps. I see max 210 idling even at 107 ambient temps but on the highway at 75 it can bounce between 219 223. Ill open a before and after thread when i duct and put in new tstat this weekend. Bye bye knock!!