[RESOLVED] Runs 30minutes and dies

[mlstraw]

I have just pulled my 1991 Talon out of storage after 6 years. It started up right away and seemd to run fine. When cold it runs great. However after about thirty minutes it seems like the fuel supply shuts down. I have added a jumper wire to the fuel pump to make sure it is gettng full voltage and I can hear it running.

If I work the throttle opened and closed, the car will stumble and run some but dies if the throttle is held in one place (open or closed)

When it cools off for an hour or more it will start up and run fine again.

Any suggestions on where to start looking?

Mike

This is a 1G 1991 Talon Turbo 4wd. It has an HKS piggy back ECU and the HKS Fuel Cut Defender. It was running great when I put away six years ago.

[hardcoremuffinz]

engine coolant temp sensor possibly. make sure everythings plugged in, maybe check for any chewed wires. since its been in storage. rodents like to chew them.

[Dsmkauai]

Check the cam and cranks sensors.

[hotrodssnova]

Fuel pump sock and/or fuel filter. Did it have fuel in it while it was in storage? Might have gummed up the filters.

[Empyre]

I agree with the post above. I would start with the fuel filters and fuel system, and then work toward the ignition system and sensors.

[Groundation]

Are you getting any CEL codes?

[rastmp]

Hmmm..Sounds like bad gas..(not the organic one)..lol

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I'm leaning towards a bad coolant temp sensor like hardcoremuffinz already mentioned. It could also be a broken wire at the cts as well as those like to get brittle over time and break off right where the wire goes into the sensor. It never hurts to replace the fuel filter with an issue like this if it hasn't been done in a while, as well as replacing the plugs and/or wires.

Take a look here.
1g Talon Idles Rough after it's warm!

And even though this is doing the opposite of what yours is doing (runs rough when cold) it still applies.
hard start and running really rich on start

Good luck!

[mlstraw]

Originally Posted by Groundation

Are you getting any CEL codes?

I pulled the codes last night and got 31 Detonation Sensor. I could not find anything in the shop manual about testing the sensor so I just rearranged the wiring. The code went away.

I let the car idle for 20 minutes and then made a short trip. Before it would die and not restart until cool in this condition. I will try driving it again when I have someone to follow me to see if the problem reappears.

Mike

Originally Posted by GRAVEDIGGER

I'm leaning towards a bad coolant temp sensor like hardcoremuffinz already mentioned. It could also be a broken wire at the cts as well as those like to get brittle over time and break off right where the wire goes into the sensor. :

I will have a look at the coolant sensor as well. My O2 gage shows lean more often that I think it should. Not sure if that means low fuel pressure or maybe the temperature senor giving false information.

It has been kinda frustration to work on becuse it runs fine for twenty to thirty minutes and then will die with little warning. I can't drive it without getting stranded and either trailering it home or waiting a couple of hours for it to cool then it runs fine again.

Mike

[mlstraw]

Well I thought I was making progress but alas no. After clearing the codes for the umptenth time, the detonation sensor code went away and stayed gone. The car idled fine in the shop for thirty minutes and restarted hot several times.

Last night I took it for a short drive. About five miles or so. It ran fine. the O2 readings seemed to be returning to normal and it pulled hard when on the throttle.

I shut it off in the driveway and went inside happy. When I went back out later to put it inside, it ran about five seconds and died. No restart. If it would fire up then it would stumble and not go over 1500 rpm and only then if I worked the throttle open and closed. I had to push it inside.

No codes in the ECU. It simply wont run. I am sure it will restart just fine when it cools.

Mike

[BeanDip0001]

Bad O2 sensor(s)? After sitting so long they might need to be cycled more than a few times or replaced. Just something else to add to your list of stuff to check out.

[Colt4G63 also]

Did you try the fuel filter? I had a lot of rust in my tank before, and when I drove for a while, the rust would clog the filter. After the rust settled back down into the feed line, I could drive it again.

If you let it sit with 10% ethanol in the tank, you would have a decent amount of water in the bottom of the tank by now.

Aside from that, my first thought was leaky caps on the ECU. That stuff can corrode the board a whole lot in 6 years.

[mlstraw]

Originally Posted by Colt4G63 also

Did you try the fuel filter? I had a lot of rust in my tank before, and when I drove for a while, the rust would clog the filter. After the rust settled back down into the feed line, I could drive it again.

If you let it sit with 10% ethanol in the tank, you would have a decent amount of water in the bottom of the tank by now.

Aside from that, my first thought was leaky caps on the ECU. That stuff can corrode the board a whole lot in 6 years.

Had the ECU redone with new caps just before I parked it. Hope they are still OK. Has the Technomotive chip in it by Todd Day.

Will swap in a new fuel filter before I drive it again. I wish there was an easy way to check the fuel pressure. Feel like I am shooting in the dark here.

BTW, it did start fine this morning but I only drove it from the house to the shop.

Mike

[2gTurBoD]

I had this issue, with after I swapped a 6 bolt in, but this is just something to check. My alternator was intermittent to bad, so it wouldn't always charge so it ran off the battery, And If I let it sit wherever it left me stranded at, it would eventually start up, while I had to work the throttle. Does your start driving really bad before it shuts off?

[mlstraw]

Originally Posted by 2gTurBoD

I had this issue, with after I swapped a 6 bolt in, but this is just something to check. My alternator was intermittent to bad, so it wouldn't always charge so it ran off the battery, And If I let it sit wherever it left me stranded at, it would eventually start up, while I had to work the throttle. Does your start driving really bad before it shuts off?

Interesting. Your symptoms sound the same as mine. However the battery voltage never seems low. There is a slight power steering leak that is dripping on the alternator.

Mike

[mlstraw]

Yesterday, I installed new fuel filter and also installed new O rings in the conection for the power steerring line. Hopefully the drip on the alternator will go away now. Have not tried to drive it yet so I don't know if I made any improvement.

Mike

[2gTurBoD]

I just put my engine in, and my power steering leaked, and killed the alternator. My battery always showed around 12v on my safc, but it would randomly shut off. Got a new battery and a new alternator (90 amp galant) from Orielys and have not had any issues since.

[mlstraw]

I finally found the problem. The fuel pump. I suspected it was bad but it just took me a while to prove it to myself. It was also a real pain to remove from the car as I could not get the fitting loose that can be accessed through the floor. I had to take loose the line at the other end of the rubber hose under the car and pull it all out through the floor.

I guess I will install a Walboro unless someone can reccomend something better.

Mike

[mlstraw]

Got my new fuel pump installed yesterday. Had a lot of trouble with the fuel line from the tank. Eventually I fabricated a solution and the car runs great now.

[AngelOfPassion]

Good job that is awesome that you got it fixed! Threads with solutions are awesome.