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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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06-01-2012, 09:20 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Burnsville, Minnesota
Registered: Nov 2002
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Agreed 100%. I didn't even think my pedals were too sloppy before, but when I had them rebuilt by shep it made a world of difference. My ACT 2600 actually disengaged! lol the pedal feel now is incredible. Very smooth.
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06-01-2012, 09:32 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Romeoville, Illinois
Registered: Jan 2008
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I had the 1" -1.25" of play in the pedal. Before I would look at the spring where the clutch master cylinder connects and it wouldn't start to move till the clutch pedal got 1" down. Now I touch the pedal and everything moves instantly
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06-01-2012, 09:32 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: MD, D.C.
Registered: May 2011
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Im considering doing this... what kind of slop are you talking about? where the pedal goes halfway down before the clutch disengages? and then when you release the pedal, it comes half way up then finishes the other half of free travel on its own time?
EDIT
you beat my question with an answer. thanks. I just didn't want to go through all the trouble for no reason.
You talking about the spring in the pedal assembly right? that didnt move for the first inch or so of travel? I might have to look for that. I thought there was another small puller spring or is that for another pedal?
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06-01-2012, 09:32 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Banned Member

From: here, Washington
Registered: Mar 2012
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I agree, much nicer to fix a hard-to-shift/grinding tranny with a new/rebuilt pedal set than replacing the tranny only to have the same problem.
Mine was rebuilt by Shep's, a great, inexpensive service he offers in doing that.
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06-01-2012, 10:36 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Spokangeles, Washington
Registered: Nov 2007
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hmmm, right on... this is very tempting! think i will end up doing it, has anyone just purchased the bushings and installed them yourself?
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06-01-2012, 10:40 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: San Antonio, Texas
Registered: Nov 2008
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Right on, I would like to know what's out there for the DIY peeps. I cant go without my clutch pedal for a week but i might be able to for an afternoon.
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06-01-2012, 11:57 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Surprise, Arizona
Registered: Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96ETT
Right on, I would like to know what's out there for the DIY peeps. I cant go without my clutch pedal for a week but i might be able to for an afternoon.
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I had a local machine shop do 2 sets for me. They made brass bushings, put a grease fitting on the tube, and welded the end for about $50.
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06-01-2012, 12:10 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Holland, Michigan
Registered: Jan 2009
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I can also agree on this one. Just had mine done up this winter and everything works like it should. Very pleased with it. They also replaced all of the little rubber-bump stops for the switches, put new OEM rubber foot pedal pads on and repainted the whole thing. Thanks Shep!
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06-02-2012, 10:17 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Fremont, New Hampshire
Registered: May 2002
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Another happy customer! I sent mine in last fall and it came back looking like new! WELL worth the $150!
____________________________
Mike Rizzotti
9.98@140
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06-02-2012, 08:55 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Romeoville, Illinois
Registered: Jan 2008
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Well if you call them they might have some pedals done already in stock, there is a $100 core charge. They didn't have any in stock when I called so I just sent mine in. You can do it yourself if you want but I just didn't want to screw around with all that, besides he does give you new clutch and brake pedals and welds the stops on in correct spots.
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