You are currently browsing the site as a "Guest", which means your are either not registered or not logged in. This also means you have limited access to our site and cannot participate - you also are browsing the site with more advertisements than logged-in members.
Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
Hello, I am another guy that fell in love with the DSM world and I bought my first turbo car.
All i was told about it was that it was going to be setup as a "race car" and battery was relocated in the hatch, fully adjustable suspension, full 3"exhaust, racing steering wheel, and 17' wheels. (brand new tires)
95 eclipse gsx 95k miles.
I bought it from a guy hard on money and all he told me is that someone told him that his engine was "crank walked". Anyways.. i bought it for $600 and hauled it back home. I arrived home, started it up... it ran rough... but still was running. I found that the hose for the BOV was pushing the MAF sensor to where it was slightly disconnected. and the BOV that was on it had blown the threading out.
So i replaced the BOV with a Greddy BOV (bought off a friend for $40). and just turned the MAF 180 degrees. It starts right up and runs perfect...
A week later after driving it, i was going about 135mph for my first test to push it some and what i think happened... was a rod knocking very loud. I am not sure what i have done, but i am new to this and have researched videos of rods knocking and it sounds like that.
Can anyone give me a rundown of what i should do now??? i have recently bought a 6bolt engine for what i wanted to build on to later... what should i do with the 2g engine??? and where should i begin with the 6bolt??? Thank you.
I researched "crank walk" enough to know that it is NOT crankwalked... but i'm sure there is something wrong now since it is knocking loud and i cant drive it any faster then like 20mph now...
I got a video as soon as i pulled over in a gas station... but im guessing it didn't save to my phone. i could hear it the loudest on the firewall side of the motor. it's a AWD so i believe the engine is turned sideways?? i think?
Crank walk can cause rod bearing failure since the lateral movement of the crank puts the rods at an angle. That tightens the bearing clearance and can cause them to wear out prematurely. A spun rod bearing can very well be caused by crank walk. If that's the case, I would source an entirely new engine to start with. There are just too many variable with crank walk to take any chances building an engine that already walked once.
Also, all of the engines in our cars are sideways regardless of AWD or FWD. They are not "longitudinally" mounted like most Domestic vehicles that people are used to seeing. So yes, it is sideways.
Hmmm, very well put. Thank you for the advice and the quick lesson.
with the 6 bolt swap im wanting to do... should i keep the whole eninge 1g? what parts from the 2g engine should i use with the 1g that are interchangeable?
You can put the 2g head on the 6-bolt bottom end with just a simple bore of the head bolt holes. But other than that you want to use the entire 1g 6-bolt engine. But be careful, not all 1g's came with 6-bolt engines.
I would also suggest looking into a 4g64 swap. It's basically the same engine as the 7-bolt 4g63, except it's a 2.4 stroker. It takes a small bit of work, there are some modifications that must be done. But it other than that everything bolts up and it drops right into your engine bay. It will give you much more low end torque and you'll spool the turbo much faster than the guys with 2.0L engines.
.
yea, i read about the somewhere. But i found a engine i got from some guy 3 hours away from me for $450. its a 6bolt 1g motor. i will post a pic from ebay.
not much you can tell from the only pics i have.. but i was told its studded.
that's all the pics until this weekend.
Last edited by codywv; 04-25-2012 at 10:24 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
is swapping the 2g head worth the trouble? Not sure what the perks are for doing it.
This is a pic i found with original motor that last owner sent to me. it looks the same atm other then new BOV.
I was told to upgrade my fuel system first above all things... either way.. a walbro 255 is on its way... but i was just wondering.. what size injectors should i get? im trying to get at least 400awhp soon... and i will be running on 91-93 octane pretty much all the time... and will get a FMIC soon if i sell my 420a talon.
Last edited by codywv; 04-26-2012 at 09:27 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
Yea get that 6 bolt motor in there running nice. I would just use the whole 6-bolt motor, but when it comes down to it any of the various combos of bottom ends/heads will be fast
Good Luck
ok, i will start this weekend... i will let you guys know how well it does... im not adding all the mods quite yet.. just the difficult ones that will make it easier while engine is out.
Also, if anyone happens to find a dsmlink at a cheap price just message me?? thanks
This is the video i just took before i start tearing out the motor this weekend...
it wont let me upload it for some reason... here is a link to it though...
Last edited by codywv; 05-01-2012 at 07:47 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
Cleaned up the engine... going to paint block black... possibly get a white valve cover.
Last edited by codywv; 05-03-2012 at 12:25 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
I noticed it when I was cleaning the cover.... sliced my finger
thinking of getting a white intake manifold for $45... and a powder coated valve cover for $75... is that paying too much???
Last edited by codywv; 05-03-2012 at 12:37 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
Also, does it really matter if FMIC is a ebay one???
Get one from one of the vr speed factory vendors, BEST bang for your buck. Short route for a quick spool, the air has less piping to travel through. Also it's a great quality product with a warranty through a trusted name vendor, plus you're helping the DSM community compared to some ebay random
yeah id def go with the VRSF FMIC kit, ive herd nothing but great things about it. also yes u can use the old valve cover fine.(the UNcracked one!) looks like your gunna start having some fun with her here pretty soon.. as far as injectors, i would buy dsmlink and 1000cc injectors, what are your plans for the turbo etc..
If you dont have something to tune with and ## turbo is stock or 16g not sure what ## running but if its close to that then the highest u should go is prly 560cc..
DSMtuners is not affiliated with Diamond Star Motors. The Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, and associated logos are trademarks of Diamond Star Motors, Mitsubishi Motors, and Chrysler Corporation.