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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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04-03-2012, 08:15 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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fresh fmic install, all new piping and bov. now overheating when idles. and stalls
Hey guys, just had a new front mount intercooler with new piping and bov installed today. Seemed to be running good, the rpm gauge was moving up and down a little but my car has always done that. Anyways a hour or so later I parked and let my car idle and it started overheating, noticed the coolant bubbling but the fan wasn't even coming on.. not really sure what's going on. Especially when I boost, and let off and go into neutral, my rpm gauge will drop unless I give it some gas and it will stall.. starts right back up but I know this isn't normal.. don't really know what's going on with it.. can't really explain it to well..but its like nothings there to prevent it from stalling.. when it drops it die
Any ideas ?s
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04-03-2012, 08:23 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: canadian, Texas
Registered: Mar 2011
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Recirculate the blow off valve back into the intake if it isn't already. The coolant temp switch could be bad causing the fans not to come on, and also causing the car to run poorly.
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04-03-2012, 08:27 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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ChadJoe, the bov is recirculated. I posted some pics on my profile so you could see.. wasn't sure if it was caused by anything today.. it never overheated before.
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04-03-2012, 08:36 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: canadian, Texas
Registered: Mar 2011
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Sorry I see that now. The coolant temp switch going out will cause the engine to start running bad and also cause your rad fans not to cycle. In turn making your car overheat and boil coolant all over the place. Or your ac fan fuse is blown. Turn on your ac inside the car and see if the fans cycle. If so let it idle and see if it starts to overheat again. You might replace the plugs now that your running a new intercooler also.
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04-03-2012, 08:52 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Pinckneyville, Illinois
Registered: Jun 2008
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Your car dies/stalls because you most likely have a boost leak somewhere. One of the couplers isn't clamped down completely or something. Perform a boost leak test.
You need to figure out why your fans aren't coming on. Could be a bad fan, could be a bad coolant temp switch, could be a fuse.
____________________________
Michael S. - 92 GS-T, 92 TSi AWD, 95 TSi AWD Auto
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04-03-2012, 10:17 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelSuch
Your car dies/stalls because you most likely have a boost leak somewhere. One of the couplers isn't clamped down completely or something. Perform a boost leak test.
You need to figure out why your fans aren't coming on. Could be a bad fan, could be a bad coolant temp switch, could be a fuse.
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I was hoping after we replaced all the piping and intercooler it wouldn't have that problem, it did that before thats why I bought the new set up..we double checked everything..it was all tight. We noticed the throttle cable was loose so we tightened it up.. not sure if it had anything to do with it or not
any other suggestions? I just want to fix this thing lol
Thanks man
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadjoe
Sorry I see that now. The coolant temp switch going out will cause the engine to start running bad and also cause your rad fans not to cycle. In turn making your car overheat and boil coolant all over the place. Or your ac fan fuse is blown. Turn on your ac inside the car and see if the fans cycle. If so let it idle and see if it starts to overheat again. You might replace the plugs now that your running a new intercooler also.
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I took the car out a little while ago, didn't over heat that time.. maybe because I was boosting the hell out of it right after we did the new set up..but still doing the stalling issue if I get on it and let off the RPM gauge drops unless I give it gas
Last edited by gameover95; 04-03-2012 at 10:18 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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04-03-2012, 10:27 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Pinckneyville, Illinois
Registered: Jun 2008
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Only way to find out is build a boost leak tester and do the test. If it did it before the FMIC then it's most likely something else. Could be Throttle body shaft seals, throttle body gaskets, intake manifold gasket, fuel injector seals (very common of these to dry up, get hard and crack, replace these for sure if yours have never been replaced), egr gasket, any of the various vacuum lines could have a hole in it.
____________________________
Michael S. - 92 GS-T, 92 TSi AWD, 95 TSi AWD Auto
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04-03-2012, 11:06 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Chicago???, Illinois
Registered: Jul 2004
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Make sure the connector for the Coolant Temp wasn't disturbed, pulled off, etc. The stalling issue, could be because of the FMIC itself and/or the location where the BOV returns the air. It could be causing a reading fluctuation on the MAF, causing it to shut off. Those were also conclusions that were discussed on ECMLink forum on possible causes for the stalling.
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04-04-2012, 12:07 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Fresno, California
Registered: Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameover95
Hey guys, just had a new front mount intercooler with new piping and bov installed today. Seemed to be running good, the rpm gauge was moving up and down a little but my car has always done that. Anyways a hour or so later I parked and let my car idle and it started overheating, noticed the coolant bubbling but the fan wasn't even coming on.. not really sure what's going on. Especially when I boost, and let off and go into neutral, my rpm gauge will drop unless I give it some gas and it will stall.. starts right back up but I know this isn't normal.. don't really know what's going on with it.. can't really explain it to well..but its like nothings there to prevent it from stalling.. when it drops it die
Any ideas ?s
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That's why you should fix maintenance before you buy after market parts. I learned the hard way 
Second it maybe your thermostat but each problems vary. Why I say thermostat. Because I replaced everything mention, radiator cap, all coolant sensor. I thought it wasn't the thermostat but as soon as I replaced that. I was so happy, like a kid on Christmas. My fans weren't coming on for over a year. One way you can still tell if your fans are working is have the knobs on defrost mode, air set to non circulate/ blow thru, heat on high, and turn the air speed knob to the second dot. If it comes on, might not be relay or sensor related.
____________________________
Korrey's 98 GST 16g Powered
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04-05-2012, 10:26 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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The overheating hasn't happened again, it gets up to the middle when i'm just idling for a long time but doesnt go any farther, however still doing the stalling after I let the rpms drop without giving it gas. Still working on this issue, haven't forgot about the post.
Will post when resolved!
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06-03-2012, 01:50 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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ALL SET :] You guys will probably think this would be the first thing I checked, but the FAN itself was the culprit. It was broken, it looks like the outlet pipe off the turbo melted the plastic shroud causing the fan to hit the melted part of the shroud and break it. Installed dual slim fans, but still having the stalling issue :[
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06-03-2012, 02:19 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
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Stalling issue is ISC/throttle body related there is guides for each of the following below let me know if you cant find them
Boost leak test and seafoam the engine via vacuum line (good maintenance)
Test ISC motor coils
Clean throttle body well
Check/Adjust TPS
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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06-03-2012, 02:24 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHerron
Stalling issue is ISC/throttle body related there is guides for each of the following below let me know if you cant find them
Boost leak test and seafoam the engine via vacuum line (good maintenance)
Test ISC motor coils
Clean throttle body well
Check/Adjust TPS
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Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING lol, I just want this thing to be done.
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06-03-2012, 02:53 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Inland Empire, California
Registered: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameover95
Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING lol, I just want this thing to be done.
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One, or a combination of these should fix your problem. Start with the easiest/simplest first - boost leak test. I'd say around 90% of our problems come from boost leaks, and check EVERYWHERE! Bov flange, throttle body (especially the back), injector seals, any/all vacuum/emissions lines, etc. ISC coils are easy to test, same with the TPS - adjusting can be a little more difficult. If it hasn't been done before cleaning/rebuilding the throttle body can make a huge difference.
____________________________
-Ryan
6/4 GSX 16G@21psi on 91
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06-03-2012, 10:52 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameover95
Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING lol, I just want this thing to be done.
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If the ISC is not opened far enough to keep enough air flowing in (via small passage around throttle plate), it can choke the engine and that's why you can only keep it running with foot on gas. However, there is nothing to adjust on the ISC, as it is controlled by the ECU based on parameters and inputs. So when a stalling problem occurs it can be a number of things having to do with the idle speed control system. That could be blocked throttle body ports, electrical faults, etc
The list I mentioned should cover most common problems and at the same time easiest to test
2G Turbo DSM Boost Leak Test
DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTube
Throttle Body Cleaning
RRE TPS adjustment (towards bottom)
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
Last edited by NHerron; 06-04-2012 at 12:42 PM.
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06-04-2012, 05:21 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: st jacob, Illinois
Registered: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameover95
Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING lol, I just want this thing to be done.
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God does that sound like an uncirculated BOV..
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06-04-2012, 09:21 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
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If it was, it would stutter and choke letting you know it doesn't like being drowned in gasoline haha. Sounds like everything is kosher and then it dies in a smooth fashion as if shutting off the car with key
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
Last edited by NHerron; 06-04-2012 at 12:22 PM.
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06-04-2012, 11:36 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
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Isn't it completely normal for a car this age to stall out under those conditions? If RPM drops that fast it seems like it would stall out a car. My GSX does this and it's completely stock. If I get on it in the higher RPM's and just push in the clutch or go into neutral the car just shuts off smoothly.
Edit: And A LOT of people have this same issue...
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06-04-2012, 11:56 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
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No thats not normal, something needs to be cleaned fixed or adjusted. I can wrap it up hard in a run until it almost hits fuel cut and at the same time quickly release the throttle and push in the clutch. Havent stalled out once.
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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06-04-2012, 12:13 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Registered: Oct 2009
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I had the same issue after I put my hard intake on. It would drive fine but cut off when I would push the clutch in. Finally realized the coupler from the intake to turbo wasn't on tight enough and was leaking. I didn't have any stuttering whatsoever either.
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06-04-2012, 12:14 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: La Puente, California
Registered: Jun 2011
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Mine was stalling the same way just yesterday. A buddy adjusted my biss screw and the problem went away. Its idles pretty decent and it doesn't shut off when going to neutral after high rev.... just my .02$
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06-04-2012, 12:18 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHerron
No thats not normal, something needs to be cleaned fixed or adjusted. I can wrap it up hard in a run until it almost hits fuel cut and at the same time quickly release the throttle and push in the clutch. Havent stalled out once.
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Huh... I have never looked into it because I never thought it was an issue... I just avoid doing it and make sure to put it in gear. Maybe I will look at your list of things to check and go through it myself haha
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06-04-2012, 12:28 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Inland Empire, California
Registered: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelOfPassion
Isn't it completely normal for a car this age to stall out under those conditions? If RPM drops that fast it seems like it would stall out a car. My GSX does this and it's completely stock. If I get on it in the higher RPM's and just push in the clutch or go into neutral the car just shuts off smoothly.
Edit: And A LOT of people have this same issue...
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No it's definitely not normal lol, cars are meant to run not stall  My GSX is almost 21 and I've got it idling just as smooth as a brand new car, and it doesn't die if I hit the clutch after a pull. Granted it took some work to get it there, but that's because there were things wrong with the car
Here's what worked on my DSM:
Throttle body rebuild (biss o ring and shaft seals)
RTV BOV flange
Replace rotten vacuum lines
Replaced MAF (try testing with a known working unit before you spend the $$$)
BISS adjustment
ECU repair
Each of these made the car run a little better in every aspect, especially idle. I'm still buttoning down the last few leaks, but my smile gets bigger and bigger when she spools up
____________________________
-Ryan
6/4 GSX 16G@21psi on 91
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06-04-2012, 12:37 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Mesa, Arizona
Registered: Jul 2011
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Thanks for the list! For me and the OP! haha
My ECU is actually at ECMtuning right now...
I am planning on replacing all small air lines soon (Larson kit from RRE)
And I am getting a new BOV and intercooler piping
So hopefully one of those will fix the issue for me... OP should do the same i guess...
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06-04-2012, 01:00 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Inland Empire, California
Registered: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngelOfPassion
Thanks for the list! For me and the OP! haha
My ECU is actually at ECMtuning right now...
I am planning on replacing all small air lines soon (Larson kit from RRE)
And I am getting a new BOV and intercooler piping
So hopefully one of those will fix the issue for me... OP should do the same i guess...
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No problem  Those could help, if it's a really bad leak. But that would be simple, and troubleshooting on these cars rarely is simple lol. I would highly recommend a boost leak test after everything is installed, just to make sure everything is sealed up nice and tight. Best of luck!
____________________________
-Ryan
6/4 GSX 16G@21psi on 91
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06-04-2012, 01:15 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Marina, California
Registered: Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gameover95
I was hoping after we replaced all the piping and intercooler it wouldn't have that problem, it did that before thats why I bought the new set up..we double checked everything..it was all tight. We noticed the throttle cable was loose so we tightened it up.. not sure if it had anything to do with it or not
any other suggestions? I just want to fix this thing lol
Thanks man
I took the car out a little while ago, didn't over heat that time.. maybe because I was boosting the hell out of it right after we did the new set up..but still doing the stalling issue if I get on it and let off the RPM gauge drops unless I give it gas
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I had a simlar issue a while back. You took too much slack out of your throttle cable - put some back & see if that resolves your idle issue.
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06-05-2012, 09:12 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scotia, New York
Registered: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevecbr929
I had a simlar issue a while back. You took too much slack out of your throttle cable - put some back & see if that resolves your idle issue.
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I remember my buddy messing with the throttle cable, he had tightened it though because it looked loose
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