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2G Head Rebuild (stock)/Port n polish??

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Hakmak

15+ Year Contributor
173
5
Aug 28, 2007
Brooklyn, New York
I'm planning on rebuilding my head. After search I noticed that most rebuild jobs are done by the 420 guys....why is that? There is nothing wrong with my current head but after swapping engines 2x I just have 2 spare heads laying around one from a JDM 4G63 the other came with the car stock 7bolt. So I figured, why not rebuild for a lil more power...but I'm noticing how expensive of a job this is, SIM for example is charging 500+ for a stock rebuild alone, WOW!!
SIM 4G63 Cylinder head Stock Rebuild

I was thinking to just take it to a machine shop, replace stock things, if they need replacing and just get a port n polish job, keep my stock cams and cam gears. What you guys think about that?
 
Having just gone thru a head rebuild, I cost me $315 for the machine work to install new stock valves, guides, springs and retainers. That wasn't including parts, and was about $200 less than it should have cost since I had connections.
 
If im not mistaken their stock rebuilt head use to be in the $350 range. I could be wrong but that realy doesnt matter at this point. This is just my opinion but at least upgraded to a budget built head. Stock evo beehive springs and retainers are a pretty cheap alternative. I have a stock rebuilt head with bc spings and retainers i will be installing this summer. As for the stock cams why p&p a head if your not going to take advantage of the additional flow. A set of 264s or 264/272's are very reasonably priced on here from time to time.
 
Ok, so if I'm going P&P then 264/272's cams will make a whole lot of sense, I agree. So far what I've gathered is, a stock rebuild job includes replacement of valves, guides, springs and retainers. Get some 264/272's, P&P and I'm done. Now, are Cam gears absolutely neccessary in my case since I'm not going that big on CAM's?
 
Porting is rather useless unless you are trying to make big power. The stock head is engineered to flow very well. At the most a little cleaning of the casting in the runners. If you do have any port work done, make sure that they have a flow bench. If a flow bench is not used than chances are that the head will flow worse than it did before. I'd just take your spare head to a reputable machine shop and have them do a basic valve job and clean on it and a resurface if needed. That shouldn't run you any more than 200 if you don't have any bent valves or cracked guides.

Ok, so if I'm going P&P then 264/272's cams will make a whole lot of sense, I agree. So far what I've gathered is, a stock rebuild job includes replacement of valves, guides, springs and retainers. Get some 264/272's, P&P and I'm done. Now, are Cam gears absolutely neccessary in my case since I'm not going that big on CAM's?

Actually a stock rebuild is just cleaning the head and grinding the valves and seats, and replacing what is damaged. The stock valves are very good quality and can be machined quite a few times before they need replaced. The guides, you just replace when they are out of spec, same with the seats.
 
Same thing a speed shop told me on the phone, they said most people get a job like what you're describing above (which would cost close to $500) and only go for port and polish if they want to make very big power. Right now this is still my DD and don't see the track at all(expecting to change this summer). My goal was to see at least 400hp when all is said and done. This is including everything in my profile that I currently have (16G, VRSF FMIC, Ceddy Mods, dogbox tranny, act 2100 Fadenza Fly wheel, 650cc 190 walbro, ported exhaust mani and 2.5 dp to 3" catback). Do you think I can achieve this w/o P&P and CAMs?
 
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You can easily make that without a port and polish or cams, i would reccomend some cams and springs because it will allow you to make that power more easily. a 272 264 combo would make some real good power with that turbo.
 
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