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14-16 psi is about as high as you can go safely on a stock fuel system
 
30lbs no problem...:p jk

But is your profile up to date? I didn't see an aftermarket fuel pump or injectors. And what are you using for tuning? So assuming you still have a stock fuel system keep it under 15lbs. Anything over that you'll be experiencing fuel cut.
 
i bought the car last year and the guy put some upgrades on it like the turbo and intake and a boost controller but that's all I know is there any way to tell if the injectors are stock or not. I done some research on the 16g evo 3 and what I gathered was that you can't run stock injectors on a 16g whether its true or not I don't know
 
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i bought the car last year and the guy put some upgrades on it like the turbo and intake and a boost controller but that's all I know is there any way to tell if the injectors are stock or not. I done some research on the 16g evo 3 and what I gathered was that you can't run stock injectors on a 16g whether its true or not I don't know

Take a pic of the injectors and post it up. We'll see if they're stock or not.

Couple examples.

FIC's are a green/black color (my 650cc)

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Some stock injectors (colors may vary depending from a 1g or 2g)

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If nothing else at least buy a wideband before messing with your current boost setting, no two cars are the same, also check and make 100% sure your knock sensor is good, if not and you car gets knock you could melt a piston or a valve. Then get a safc2 and read up on how to tune with it. I have a set of rc550's if you need injectors.
 
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From my understanding your ecu will act as if its still on stock turbo so as long as you don't run your boost to high(15-16) psi max should be fine! :)
 
If nothing else at least buy a wideband before messing with your current boost setting, no two cars are the same, also check and make 100% sure your knock sensor is good
x2, otherwise your flying blind.
 
PSI means nothing, airflow is what matters. Reading too much airflow is what makes the ecu induce fuel cut. I.E. A huge turbo with all other supporting mods on a stock ecu might hit fuel cut at 8 or 9psi due to the amount of airflow it's generating, while a little t25 with stock everything might not hit fuel cut until 17 or 18 psi.

My advice to you, re-wire your fuel pump, turn the boost up until you hit fuel cut, then back it down one psi.
 
PSI means nothing, airflow is what matters. Reading too much airflow is what makes the ecu induce fuel cut. I.E. A huge turbo with all other supporting mods on a stock ecu might hit fuel cut at 8 or 9psi due to the amount of airflow it's generating, while a little t25 with stock everything might not hit fuel cut until 17 or 18 psi.

My advice to you, re-wire your fuel pump, turn the boost up until you hit fuel cut, then back it down one psi.

just not a good idea without some kind of engine management... or at LEAST a way to clear a CEL. fuel cut =CEL so hes gonna hit fuel cut and be pissed off til someone can clear it for him.. and could cause other issues until its cleared... the ecu remembers fuel cut..
 
just not a good idea without some kind of engine management... or at LEAST a way to clear a CEL. fuel cut =CEL so hes gonna hit fuel cut and be pissed off til someone can clear it for him.. and could cause other issues until its cleared... the ecu remembers fuel cut..

LOL, no, it doesn't. Fuel cut will NOT throw a cel.

Here's some newb reading that 3/4's of the "proven members" know nothing about.

The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Table of Contents
 
ecmlink with a walbro 255 fuel pump or a evo 8/9 fuel pump.Get eather 750cc injectors if you wanna max 16g on pump gas.1000cc injectors if you wanna max it out on race gas or E85.You will probably get like 280whp at like 19psi on pump gas or can run like 25 psi but not safe on stock motor imo.That should give you an idea.
The cheap route is safc with 650cc injectors but that's all you can do with that device but you will get sick of the safc after a week.
 
no more that 16psi stock make sure you replace fuel filter if possible check the gas filter in the tank that is on the fuel pump,it is very important to maintain proper fuel and spark at 16psi to be safe 14psi
 
A wideband is an O2 sensor with it's own readout gauge which tells you the exact A/F ratio. Your stock O2 sensors are "narrowband" which means they can tell the ECU that the engine is running Rich, Lean, and Stoich. When tuning you need a much more detailed, or "wider" reading than that. Hence the name "wideband". It displays A/F ratio as the actual air to fuel ratio such as 10.9:1 or 14.7:1 with the 1 being fuel.

This is the wideband gauge. It doesn't show the :1 because it's assumed you already know that the displayed number is a ratio to 1.
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Like I said before the gauge needs it's own fancy O2 sensor to read so a bung must be welded into the exhaust pipe in order to read the A/F ratio. But there is much more on that in other threads. Search around and I'm sure you'll find the answer.

As for how far can you turn up the boost, I would say don't touch the boost at all until you have some kind of tuning system, a wideband, and an upgraded fuel system. Running lean can and will destroy your engine very quickly. You could get away with a few extra PSI, but not much more and not very safely. I know it's tempting to crank up the boost and fly, but if it's not done right you won't be flying for long :thumb:.
 

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i have a avc-r actuator valve controller type-r in my car its got a lot of settings on it i have it set on stock i dont know how to tone with it but it dos show me how much air my intake is getting though. p.s. if anyone has one of these and knows how to tune them let me know please thanks.
 

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