Possible fuel cut-off

[Lucas71623]

Ive found similar posts but nothing that helps with my problem. I bought a 96 gsx with no engine and had a stage 1 built for it by the dsm graveyard. I got a garret t28 turbo and a new bov for it from extremepsi.com, they said it was the biggest turbo i could push with my stock fuel system as i dont plan on upgrading that yet, except i did get a wally 190 fuel pump. Other than that everything is stock on the car.
Here's the problem: when i get to around 3200 rpm, doesnt have to be wot, just when the boost is really building and the car is about to really take off it starts to spudder and cough, and then go again; it feels like fuel cut. I talked with the dsm graveyard and he told me it sounded like boost spike and to change how my vacuum hoses were run. It was like it is stock, with a hose coming from the wastegate ( which is internal and set at 12 psi) that t's off with one side going to the bcs and the other to the turbo. DSM graveyard had me eliminate the t and just run a hose from the wasegate up to my throttle body. After doing this I drove the car and the fuel cut-off was gone but the boost didnt feel as strong, and then after driving a ways it went back to cutting out and spuddering. It seems to be worse the wider I have the throttle open. Please help

 

[ennioGST]

this happened to me only at higher rpm. You may have a boost leak contributing to this. I changed a cracked cuppler in my airflow piping as well as tightened my charge pipe and tightened the bolts on the top of my turbo.

 

[razrman8]

It may feel like fuel cut, but if your injectors were running out of fuel they would not magically get more fuel and keep pushing past 3200r.p.m. Also, seeing as you say its doing this at 3200r.p.m. I doubt you're spooled enough to run your injectors out of fuel.

As posted above, you should do a boost leak test. These are basically mandatory if you are having any type of boosting problem. A boost leak can cause the sputter you are describing, and backfiring as well. If you are unsure of what a boost leak test is, I urge you to check the FAQ and tutorials, there are some good write ups on how to correctly and efficiently perform one. If you're boost leak checks out, I would check ignition system next. Good luck to you.

 

[21_Eclipse]

I have a similar problem but i have a n/t RS. Does anyone have a idea bout this problem does the same thing as "lucas71623" wit the spuddering and what not. Just changed the ignition coil and it went away for a bit but happened again this time when i press the gas to the floor its lkke its getting nothing in response.

Sorry for the thread jack

 

[solson1041]

I know I was having a very similar problem. It turned out being cause my alternator was shot. Just before it completely died on me, it was doing this stuff. I assume either the injectors/cpu wasn't getting enough current, or the spark plugs weren't getting enough current to get the cylinders exploding right. If your boost leak checks out, definitely take a look at the ignition system and possibly your alternator. It's like 2 bolts to take the alternator off, so it might be worth it to take it to Napa or wherever and have em test it.

Good luck.

 

[Lucas71623]

Thank you all for the help. I'll definintaly start by checking for a boost leak. Whats killing me is I'm rehabbing from a bike wreck and cant do anything myself, and I live in a tiny town where there is a huge oil boom, so I have to drive an hour and a half to my car looked at; and of course he doesnt know much about turbo applications and I'm just learning as this is my first artificially aspirated car. Im $13k into the dang thing and I just want it to run right.
I'm not doing the car any damage by driving it am I? I'm still breaking the engine in (500 miles 2 go) so I'm not driving it hard or anything. I can pretty much drive it without it happening if I dont get on it too much.
I also wanted to add that its not always at 3200 rpm, now that i have driven it more it seems to be more related to throttle position, worse the wider open it is, but always happens between 3200 and 3700 rpm. Boost leak makes more and more sense because it probably gets enough pressure to leak around there, then the car spudders and the pressure drops and then it goes again, but i always have to shift before the boost gets high enough to do it again. Thanks so much everyone.

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? if the stuttering starts around the time you start building boost then i'd say do a boost leak test. you can make a tester for like $15 and it takes maybe 10 minutes to do the test.

 

[Tiki2777]

its definitely a boost leak, but when i get fuel cut, its more of a "brake check."

 

[Lucas71623]

Well whatever was the problem I think it was worse than boost leak; and now its much worse. I was just driving down the road and the car died. Huh? So I put it in gear popped the clutch it started but made a terrible grinding clunking noise and died again. Not good. I pulled over, tried to start it with the key, it wont turn over. After waiting 6 months to get this engine from dsm graveyard, another 4 months of waiting for it to get installed, $10,000, and I got 507 miles. Is there anyone who thinks this might not be as bad as I think it is?

 

[volcomsnow245]

Does the car sputter real hard like it stops accelerating I would make sure your fuel line is all the way on the fuel pump because something similar happened to me. Also do a boost leak test.

Make sure your maf is tight on the intake no leaks before the turbo also.

 

[trillatl]

Did this get fixed?