How many of you have rebuilt your throttle body?

[OgamiGST]

So a few questions, this look sooo freaking easy to do. I just want to know your experiences with doing this and are there any other "problems" I could run into other than the throttle plate screws being hard to take out and the marking of the TPS to get it back into the exact place it was before removal. I'm planning on doing this possibly this weekend so I'm gather as much info as possible. All I will be doing is replacing the shaft seals.

 

[goodbuds]

i would send it out if i were you, throttle bodies.com

 

[GSX_TC1]

I had steve Monroe rebuild mine with all the bells and whistles, now i have a rock solid idle with no idle surging or sudden stalls.

here's the thread i made on it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/410700-got-my-new-throttle-body-back-today.html

 

[snowborder714]

1. The shaft screws might strip. Definitely get new ones. The sizing info can be found in one of the VFAQ articles. Use a dab or red threadlocker when reinstalling them, and peen the backs with a ball peen hammer to help prevent them from backing out.
2. Make sure the throttle plate goes back in the same way it came out. If not, that can cause issues.
3. If you're replacing the FIAV gasket, the FIAV screws can strip as well.
4. Winding the springs can be difficult the first couple times you do it. Make sure you pay attention to how they come off in relation to the throttle cable bracket and the white plastic piece that covers the green spring.
5. Getting the TPS sensor back on in the exact same position will be next to impossible. Use link to set it (search the wiki for the TPS wizard).

I think those are the major points for now. I'm sure you'll have questions once you get into it

 

[Junfan]

I have rebuilt a few now. I did two different motors for my car and then did one for a buddy. It is pretty straight forward just pay attention to label the orientation of the throttle plate. Careful with the screws as mentioned. Marking the springs in relation to how many times it is wound and position on the TB. The TPS is easy to reset. Just get a volt meter and follow the shop manual on setting it in the proper position. You could mark it before hand to get it pretty close.

 

[OgamiGST]

1. The shaft screws might strip. Definitely get new ones. The sizing info can be found in one of the VFAQ articles. Use a dab or red threadlocker when reinstalling them, and peen the backs with a ball peen hammer to help prevent them from backing out.
2. Make sure the throttle plate goes back in the same way it came out. If not, that can cause issues.
3. If you're replacing the FIAV gasket, the FIAV screws can strip as well.
4. Winding the springs can be difficult the first couple times you do it. Make sure you pay attention to how they come off in relation to the throttle cable bracket and the white plastic piece that covers the green spring.
5. Getting the TPS sensor back on in the exact same position will be next to impossible. Use link to set it (search the wiki for the TPS wizard).

I think those are the major points for now. I'm sure you'll have questions once you get into it

Ok cool, I'm going to use this page as my guide tell me if this is the correct procedure TB Shaft Seals VFAQ

As far as resetting it with link.. is that a really difficult task? you know me (LC1) and my programming skills ..ah yes by the way it worked, output 1 is now the settings for output 2 and they are really close on link so I'm assuming a little tweeking here and there will get it spot on but as far as the throttle body is concerned I saw that a tap maybe nessesary for the screws could I use some penitrator to help out

 

[snowborder714]

You can use PB Blaster (or a similar product) to aid in removing the screws. I would recommend using a screwdriver and hammering on it, while slightly twisting in the direction to loosen. If you don't mind buying a tool, an impact driver (hand tool, not power tool) is what I use. Just a bit fancier method of above. One key is to get the best fitting screwdriver possible.

TPS adjust - v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

As for that guide, I like removing the shaft screws first so you can use the tension of the springs to help keep the shaft/plate from rotating. If you take them out, you could shift the plate by pressing on it too hard in one direction, which could making removing the screws harder.

Make sure you put the seals in the proper way (open side inward).

You may have to play around with the plate a bit when reinstalling it to make sure it closes fully.

I've only ever used a tap a couple times when the screws were extremely hard to remove, or didn't go back in very smoothly.

 

[OgamiGST]

holy bajeezers dsmlinktpsadjustment [ECMTuning - wiki] , I have no clue what is going on when it comes to the last part "solve for scale and offset" WTF ok so in theory: I would mark the TPS then do the rebuild, put the TPS back on getting as close as humanly possible per the marks. Then I would do these adjustments through link? or would I need to go back and forth from the TPS the the gas peddle? Just remember Snowboarder me+LC1= (snowboarder me WTF you me )

Edit: Ahhh your link is better than mine

 

[snowborder714]

No need to mark TPS. Here is what I do.

1. Bolt TPS back on so it's centered. Don't tighten both bolts yet though.
2. Make sure TPS is plugged in.
3. Turn key to ON (but don't start car) and fire up link.
4. Start a stream/log and look at TPSVolts. Move the TPS slowly and try to get this value on .63v. Once you do, bolt it down tight. Keep in mind it might try and move on you. If you can't get it exactly, get it as close to possible, erring on the high side.
5. Look at the link I posted (ignore the one you found) and run that wizard. Then your TPSVolts should be .63v when off and 5v when at WOT (matching up with ThrotPos of 0% and 100%, respectively).

 

[OgamiGST]

No need to mark TPS. Here is what I do.

1. Bolt TPS back on so it's centered. Don't tighten both bolts yet though.
2. Make sure TPS is plugged in.
3. Turn key to ON (but don't start car) and fire up link.
4. Start a stream/log and look at TPSVolts. Move the TPS slowly and try to get this value on .63v. Once you do, bolt it down tight. Keep in mind it might try and move on you. If you can't get it exactly, get it as close to possible, erring on the high side.
5. Look at the link I posted (ignore the one you found) and run that wizard. Then your TPSVolts should be .63v when off and 5v when at WOT (matching up with ThrotPos of 0% and 100%, respectively).

that is perfect yeah now I'm totally ready to do this, you have totally been right there to save me on these little fun tasks that I set myself out to do. Thank you again. This is probably going to end up being another good "how to" your going to write I'll snap some pictures as I go and if you need them I'll gladly donate

 

[Junfan]

The last time I did the same thing with my SAFC2. Just went to either monitor or sensors and you can see the voltage. I set it to 5v as per the shop manual. I know that this is the same as the .63 in link from many of the posts on here. Now when I get link I know how get to it in there. Thanks for posting the help.

 

[OgamiGST]

The last time I did the same thing with my SAFC2. Just went to either monitor or sensors and you can see the voltage. I set it to 5v as per the shop manual. I know that this is the same as the .63 in link from many of the posts on here. Now when I get link I know how get to it in there. Thanks for posting the help.

You should take a peek at my posts every so often, I get myself into trouble all the time if you ever need to know how to hook up a LC1 wideband look at the threads I've started you'll get a full run down and even dumb antics that will teach what NOT to do. I didn't kill anything but I wanted to run myself over a few times

 

[tstkl]

I rebuilt mine and did the half shaft mod myself. I used work's throttle body shaft seals. They are in norcal so shipping is quick. Follow vfaq. Also I got some SS allen button head screws and cut them to the perfect length, used thread locker and then peened them with a chisel.

You'll strip the oem screws. You don't HAVE to mark the throttle plate, IMO its pretty obvious which way is right and which is wrong. you can get away with flipping it 180 degress so long as its the right 180 degrees.

 

[OgamiGST]

Um yeah ...I'll post the story for this after I fix what I did tomorrow WTF

Alright so, the TB rebuild party was awesome and then WTF. So basically I cleaned the Throttle body so well it almost looked brand new, the down side is it was so clean it decided to slip off the engine bay and land on the TPS thankfully Augustine had a spare 1g TPS and I threw it on and it works perfectly the resetting of the TPS on link was simple I had it on .63v but then I turned the last bit to tighten it and it slipped to .65v, so that was done. The bad part is that I didn't center the plate all the way or it slipped a little when I was tightening it either way it caused me to idle between 2-2,500 rpm So I got home and just let it go for the night, Woke up 7:30 tore it apart and saw everything that just mentioned. With all of that put back together I took off the manual boost controller and did a test drive got to the gas station and idle is at 1,500 rpm. Long story short, it was the damn throttle cable. Now it's stead at 1k with no idle surge and no boost leak thank you Augustine for the awesome DSM wrenching fiesta

Oh and I forgotwe found out the Valve Cover was cracked...and it was the one with Mitsubishi and the diamond on it dang it

 

[OgamiGST]

Ok, something must be wrong. I got to work today and it was idling at 2k then it went down to like 1200 rpm.

 

[goodbuds]

you were suppose to rebuild a spare one not the one in the car....

 

[OgamiGST]

you were suppose to rebuild a spare one not the one in the car....

yeah I couldn't get one darn it

 

[snowborder714]

You're using a 1g TPS on a 2g. The 2g TPS has the idle switch built in (notice how it has 4 pins vs. 3 pins on the 1g?), where the 1g's use an external idle switch. Go into link and check the "simulate idle switch" box and see if that helps.

And I believe I PM'd you about a throttle body I had lying around before you rebuilt this one

 

[OgamiGST]

You're using a 1g TPS on a 2g. The 2g TPS has the idle switch built in (notice how it has 4 pins vs. 3 pins on the 1g?), where the 1g's use an external idle switch. Go into link and check the "simulate idle switch" box and see if that helps.

And I believe I PM'd you about a throttle body I had lying around before you rebuilt this one

Ah ok I'll look at that, I think I saw it was checked but I may have been looking at somthing else. I honestly can only afford like $20 to $30 dollars that's why I had to rebuild it. It was supposed to only cost $20 to rebuild (cost of seals) but that didn't work out, well maybe it did, I just have to check that box. Does it show up on my log I posted?

 

[snowborder714]

Your latest log does have that checked.

Have you tried adjusting your BISS screw? When I set mine, I screw them in fully, then back them out 3-3.5 turns as a base. Maybe this got changed somehow?
Have you tested your ISC to make sure it's still good?

 

[OgamiGST]

Your latest log does have that checked.

Have you tried adjusting your BISS screw? When I set mine, I screw them in fully, then back them out 3-3.5 turns as a base. Maybe this got changed somehow?
Have you tested your ISC to make sure it's still good?

Is the ISC on the bottom of the TB like the other black sensor looking thing. How would I test that. The bad thing is the throttle body hit the ground and broke the TPS so I'm wondering if it broke something else. Man this is not good

Ok I'm going to go out during my break and see if I can fix it ..

Ok, I got it figured out. I hooked up link and saw the TPS had moved reset that, then I noticed that the throttle was reading slightly open and also it the idle switch wasn't at 1. So after readjust the tps those were fixed. I reved it a little and noticed it was going to 1200 rpm at idle so i went to the engine bay and loosend the throttle cable a little and idle is back down to 980 ish. So I hope this is resoled and i have anice rebuilt Throttle body with no leaks