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gas in my oil

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775TSI

10+ Year Contributor
148
0
Nov 8, 2009
Carson City, Nevada
Can a faulty intake manifold gasket cause gas to leak in my oil? I did a comp check we are 155 150 161 150. So pretty clean across the board. Couldn't access my injectors today to see if i have a cracked cap or broken injector. So i ask you, can a faulty / broken intake manifold gasket cause gas in my oil. I have read about 12 topics regarding this and have done just about everything suggested i could access today. What makes me lean towards IM gasket is the fact i have a small idle surge 1500 to 2000 on and off doesn't do it consistent, and on top of that my car wont boost past 9 PSI and if i boost 2nd n 3rd gear by 4th the psi drops to about 6-7.

Any suggestions would be great and ill keep reading on.
 
First and foremost, do a boost leak test, to ensure that the leak is from the intake manifold. There are many causes for idle surge, and inability to get into boost, so I would recommend starting there first.

A complete mod list in your profile, would help us substantially, as we have nothing to base our recommendations off. As I see it, you have a boost leak, causes the car to run rich, and gas is making its way passed the rings into your oil. That is assuming the car is stock, with stock injectors, and no tuning device. You do not want this to continue, as you could wash out your piston rings.
 
The car is 100% stock with a Turbonetics boost controller. And i cant seem to get ahold of a boost leak test or find all the parts to make one. On the way home i self logged my Air/fuel and at idle in neutral its 14.5 - 15.9 and at cruise its around 13.4 - 14.8, when the turbo hits 7 psi (its max at the moment) it goes to 10.0. So with that i agree im running way to rich matter of fact i think i smelt gas on my way home this morning. My base idle is 1500 which i think is too high. Is there any way to check for a boost leak without a tester, also is there a way to check the intake manifold without pulling it or a leak down???

**Update**
Just encase i am going to go ahead and order a Fel-pro high performance intake manifold gasket from o'reilly only 10.99 and knock that out. Since i found my turbo is only on by 2 out of 4 bolts i went ahead and purchased a Big Evo3 16G ported and the 2G install kit with a new o2 housing / down pipe, and a new J-pipe for the SMIC. I figure if im going to take the time to pull half that crap to inspect it i am going to replace it it. Also on top, I do have a check engine for a random miss fire in all 4 cylinders and faulty thermostat or low fluid. I replaced the wires and plugs with OEM and put cool in the bottle and in the line reset the light with my oil change and it came back today.

**Update #2**
Pulled the intake and the entire turbine side including my entire intake tube and MAF was drenched in oil. Could of got at least 1 1/2 quarts. There was a half dollar size puddle at the turbine it self. So in this assumption the turbo is cooked. I was able to bounce the blades off the walls of the turbo the shaft has so much play. Could this be the cause of my rich running? (FYI the breather tube for the head has been removed for a while now with a filter in place)
 
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**Update #2**
Pulled the intake and the entire turbine side including my entire intake tube and MAF was drenched in oil. Could of got at least 1 1/2 quarts. There was a half dollar size puddle at the turbine it self. So in this assumption the turbo is cooked. I was able to bounce the blades off the walls of the turbo the shaft has so much play. Could this be the cause of my rich running? (FYI the breather tube for the head has been removed for a while now with a filter in place)




If the turbo has that much shaft play then yes its bad. Withh all that oil in the intake I would make sure the turbo drain pipe is clear and flowing freely.
 
If the turbo has that much shaft play then yes its bad. Withh all that oil in the intake I would make sure the turbo drain pipe is clear and flowing freely.

I will be inspecting whats left and replacing 90% of it with my new 2G turbo kit. (my goal is around 18-20 psi, should i get a 195 or will my stock handle it?) But my main question is with a turbo this bad could this be the cause of the rich running? Maybe my MAFS is coated in oil and causing bad readings?? But i don't think its so much pouring gas from some where i think its the car trying to compensate since my AEM A/F gauge is telling me what it is.

Also for a stock 2G GSX what should be my standard readings on my A/F at 60mph cruise in 5th and at idle. Then what should my idle be? I always thought around 900 to 1100 +/- 100.
 
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dude was it your turbo causing your issues because im having similar problems minus the boost problems since i got a retune on e85. idle sure at warm up, faint burning oil smell when go above 10lbs vac, oil in the compressor housing (not much but a penny size drop). the only thing is my compression is fine, my afr is perfect, and my 60-1 has minimal side to side play.
 
If two of the 4 bolts were missing from the manifold to turbo it will run like crap. No doubt. The shaft play is probably due to overworking the turbo like that for so long. I am sure Justin will chime in with his opinion on that one though. If you can't get all the parts to make a boost leak tester just buy one on ebay. Here ya go, BLT. It would be much cheaper to just build your own (like less than 5 bucks). An hardware store will have everything you need. If you can't find one in chicago you need more help than we can give.
 
Thanks guys. FYI not in Chicago.

New update. Started my car today and the gas light of all things came on and it reaked of gas. So at this point i am terrified to drive it but its my DD. Help??!!. I am building a tester this weekend but i dont know if the car will make it that long.
 
Sounds like you have a fuel leak then. If you start it and it smells like gas, why not check all the lines from the tank to the rail? How bad is the rust on your car? I have seen tanks with holes rusted all the way through on top. Flip the seat up and remove access panels to gas tank and check for leaks.
 
he replace alot of stuff and it still dose it dumps gas into the oil i think it coming out tail too. i saw fire coming out as he following behind him going down the highway. he replace the ecu, maf, ign module ,coil, fuel reg, injectors, coolant temp switch both. compression test. leak down . cam sensor. boost leak test. 02 sensor. i want put it on my 5 gas bench. to see what it reads. has and one solved this problem before ?:confused:
 
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Checked all fuel lines under the hood and nothing. I am going to get some soapy water and spray my injectors see if they have leakage. Im lost on to what this can be really. My compression is really good all my lines are great but i get extremely high A/F readings and like 10 mpg. Any other suggestions would be awesome.

Ok so after getting my CEL reset after my oil change it came back on again after i did the plugs and wires for random misfire. Now its back with Faulty coolant for closed loop and something about a faulty #2 injector. So i ask should i go OEM 450 since i wont go more then 20 psi or get 550s? I went ahead and bought a temp sensor and thermostat going to do that today!
 
Checked all fuel lines under the hood and nothing. I am going to get some soapy water and spray my injectors see if they have leakage. Im lost on to what this can be really. My compression is really good all my lines are great but i get extremely high A/F readings and like 10 mpg. Any other suggestions would be awesome.

Ok so after getting my CEL reset after my oil change it came back on again after i did the plugs and wires for random misfire. Now its back with Faulty coolant for closed loop and something about a faulty #2 injector. So i ask should i go OEM 450 since i wont go more then 20 psi or get 550s? I went ahead and bought a temp sensor and thermostat going to do that today!

If you have a way to tune go for as big as you want. If you are still using the stock ecu then stick with 450's for now.
 
Kool thank you. Also i was told there is a temp sensor for the injectors as well. Could the injectors also be on a loop and the code saying Faulty temp for a closed loop for the injectors since its also throwing a code for injector #2?

Also. Holy crap its like pulling teeth trying to find 450 top feeds. I can find 525 and up but not a single 450
 
Kool thank you. Also i was told there is a temp sensor for the injectors as well. Could the injectors also be on a loop and the code saying Faulty temp for a closed loop for the injectors since its also throwing a code for injector #2?

Also. Holy crap its like pulling teeth trying to find 450 top feeds. I can find 525 and up but not a single 450

There is a temperature sensor on the thermostat housing that will effect fuel trims yes. Though it will not likely cause problems with only a single injector. It would cause you to run rich or lean depending on the fault with the sensor. Since your problem seems to be narrowed to the 2nd injector try swapping it with another cylinder and see if the OBD system says the misfire is on a different cylinder. It may be a faulty injector, it does happen.

If you find that is the case your best bet is to buy a full used set or plan to buy bigger after you have a way to tune. You can pick up a used set of stock injectors for around 50 in the classifieds.
 
If you are looking for parts, specifically injectors, try Welcome To Extreme PSI out. I have done a fair amount of business with them and they are pretty good. While we are on the topic of where to get stuff, check ecmtuning.com for dsmlink, it was possibly the best upgrade i have done to my car (im not the only one with this opinion).
Best of luck!
 
Check out the ECU. It could be causing fuel issues. Also, make sure your PCV valve is working correctly. Gas in oil is primarily caused by one thing. Gas getting past the rings. The reason for this can be complicated. It could be bad rings, misfire, too much gas, bad PCV etc etc etc.

Leak down test is number 1 at this time. I would be willing to bet that the missing bolts caused bad spool/no boost. Once that is in order do a leak down test. It could be very simple. Just do a leak down.

As far as upgrading. By all means do it. While it's apart is the best time. Boost leak test, fix all leaks or replace everything with new to thwart future issues. Once that is completed, Base timing and idle. (If a timing belt is due do it.) Then continue on with your upgrades.
 
Can someone hit me up with some 450 CC injectors. I need them expedited and i just got shot in the eye with pressurized 91 octane. I am going to just replace the injectors. Also if anyone has the bolts for the left hand side of the turbo manifold to turbo one is a nut / bolt combo other is just a bolt. Gladly appreciate it.
 
Very light brown. Just had it changed like 100 miles ago.

Update: Took it to a shop today and the mechanic said the throttle is open 7.5% while the car is at idle. He included this could be causing my flooding issue. He said all sensors including the O2s and such checked out and when holding the car at higher RPMS 6k or so everything was perfectly normal. So he instructed me to make sure the idle screw is not holding the throttle open and also to make sure there is no build up and the plate moves easily not tough.
 
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