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hmm now what?! opinions please

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cavyracer666

15+ Year Contributor
39
0
May 7, 2008
chesapeake, Virginia
Sooo doing some racing this weekend when the pic happened. Now I have a tap and I'm burning oil. So i'm figuring I damaged a valve and am in need of a head job. I'm thinking while i'm in that area I might as well upgrade. I was thinking of, in order of importance, NGK BPR7EKN, MAP oversized black nitride valves, Brian Crower Camshafts & Valve Springs/Retainers Combo, and adjustable cam gears. However I have been reading the forums and seeing that the cams seem to be more for higher horsepower apps than what I am currently setup for. I even read somewhere that the cams could end up outflowing the turbo. Any advice/opinions on these upgrades would be grately appreciated. Especially the cams I was thinking BC 280's would be good as long as I get the adjustable cam gears and advance/retard by 4 degrees. will be running a ported and polished 14b as well as the current mods. Eventuall horsepower goal is roughly the same as every other NOOB 400-500 daily driven AWD horsepower yes I know Im not even half way there now and I do reallize this will take extensive mods and most importantly tuning.

P.S. sorry pic sucks phone sucks
 

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Those cams wouldn't do justice for the 14b. You'll make the most power from that turbo in the 3-6.8k range. Might be better to stick to a set of 272 cams to give you a more useable powerband. And with all that work your going to need something to tune for all the extra airflow. Might want to look into ecmlink and maybe some bigger injectors. remember the upgrade paths are your friend use them
 
Why Thank you sir, exactly the type of response I was looking for. Would I be better just to stick with the stock cams for now and save the cam money for maybe a 16G or Link or just the 280 cam later.
 
Check my edited post ^
Link would be a great #1 upgrade. No one would look down on you for it. 16g would net you great power over the 14b. Stock cams will hinder though. 272s and the 16g would work great as well. 280 cams are usually best suited for turbos gt37 or bigger
 
Yea i've read them and i've been looking into fuel stuff before this happened especially scince MAP was having that vendor special sale. Just pushed the car a little too hard so now I have too fix what I broke. I won though even if it was at a price. 350 Z couldn't get within a half mile of me ROFL
 
I hope you don't mean street racing as we here in the dsm community frown upon street racing. And it might evidently get this thread closed
 
save the cash and use it for link and a wideband. for your power goals you could pickup 2.5 and use the rest of the cash on your wideband. v3 is nice but not necassary for a mild daily. IMO
 
yea thats the way im looking at it. My motto is once it breaks upgrade it:hellyeah:. just want to make sure i'll be helping more than hurting. especially with the cams.

Dont take that too literally, leaving things until they ultimately break will just cause more and more problems with more important parts.
 
280 cams would be a too bug of a duration for a 14b. Look into a pair of 272's or even a 264/272 combo (whatever way if goes). And stay away from Brian crower! I've heard nothing but problems spend the little extra money and get HKS or delta regrinds.
 
So the more research i do I'm starting to think cams might be more than I need to do right now. Please do correct me if i'm wrong. That being said how much of a difference will 1mm oversized valves make would they even be worth it. Same with the springs, will they even do anything?
 
I think you can keep the stock valves if you want. I have a completely stock head with dual valve springs and bc272s, doing just fine to 8800rpm. Get link and fix whatever damage you caused. If you plan on making big power eventually either buy parts that can support it or just wait till you start doing that build. You'll end up spending a lot more money on a 14b setup, then a 16g setup, and then your ultimate goal of 4-500hp. Trust me LOL
 
Tuning devices, gotta have those. Then mods can come later wish i did that long time ago.

Yea some tuning/datalogging software could've saved both the plug and the headwork I'm gonna need now. This plug caused almost as much damage as busting a timing belt. Price wise atleast, still runs but ticks, smokes, and you can feel it ain't running right and puffs out of pcv hose that is disconnected. Still assuming i damaged a valve, seat, guide, and seal. Wont know for sure til I take it apart and take it to the machince shop. Gonna decide on what parts to put in the head by friday and wait til they get here before I take it all apart. Any advice on anything else i should replace while I have it this far apart would also be appreciated. Thank you wise ones.
 
CHECK YOUR RINGS! if you trashed the plug and have that metal bouncing around your cylinder you coulda easily damaged cylinder walls or the rings.
 
Yea i'm starting to think more towards buying another motor if i can find one for the right price. Just in case I cracked the head or something and i think this motor might have had some crankwalk noise anyways.WTF I also have a 90 laser N/T that has no spark issue that i'm slighty contemplating using as a donor car.
 
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