| Welcome to DSMtuners |
You are currently browsing the site as a "Guest", which means your are either not registered or not logged in. This also means you have limited access to our site and cannot participate - you also are browsing the site with more advertisements than logged-in members.
Register an account and start participating!
|
| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
 |

|
|
06-28-2011, 09:17 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Supporting Member

From: Downham Market, Europe
Registered: Nov 2010
Reputation:
|
Rear Differential Knocking Sound
After looking through the forums I didn't, again, find exactly what I was looking for. Related to the rear differential, is it supposed to actually make a "locking or knocking" sound when going into reverse? Or even when shifting in 1st-5th? It's almost as if the transfer case is "free flying" when I'm off the gas and re-engages when I get on it again. As for the reverse portion, that knocking sound always comes up when going backwards as if there is a bit of "space" floating between the forward and reverse points... should I just have the transmission, transfer case, and rear differential rebuilt (was planning on doing this later)?
|
|
|
|
06-28-2011, 09:24 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: El Paso, Texas
Registered: Apr 2010
Reputation:
|
If it clunks every time you shift, your rear differential bushings may be bad now..
It really depends on how it sounds. are you sure its from your differential.?
____________________________
Carlos A
96 GS - Sold
97 GSeX
|
|
|
06-28-2011, 09:26 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#3 (permalink)
|
|
DSM Wiseman

Car: Evo X GSR
From: Iowa City, Iowa
Registered: Nov 2003
Reputation:
|
Lots of 2Gs have excessive backlash in the rear diff. It's not only annoying, but it can greatly increase the odds of the rear diff exploding on a hard launch (because impacts are more likely to cause damage than the mere transmission of force). You can buy the parts and rebuild it yourself or send it off to a place like TRE. But check the bushings on the diff and subframe, first, since that's easier and cheaper.
|
|
|
|
06-28-2011, 10:12 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Moderator

From: South Gilbert, Arizona
Registered: Feb 2006
Reputation:
|
The symptoms you're describing sound like worn carrier bearing(s) or u-joint(s) on the driveshaft.
____________________________
-Corey Jenson
E-OCHOCINCO Powered FP HTA68 / stock 7-bolt / Shep 4
|
|
|
07-03-2011, 01:44 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Supporting Member

From: Downham Market, Europe
Registered: Nov 2010
Reputation:
|
I'll have a look at those, thanks for the help - became concerned. If it is the carrier bearings or u-joints are these expensive to replace? And what would be the level of difficulty for a inexperienced person such as myself to replace these (if they are in fact "bad")?
|
|
|
|
07-03-2011, 07:48 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: clinton, Missouri
Registered: Oct 2010
Reputation:
|
+ on u joints.. easy way to check is put car in neutral and get under need with the rear jacked up and spin it back and forth by and watching the u joints.
|
|
|
|
07-03-2011, 08:35 AM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Moderator

From: South Gilbert, Arizona
Registered: Feb 2006
Reputation:
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonlight GSX
I'll have a look at those, thanks for the help - became concerned. If it is the carrier bearings or u-joints are these expensive to replace? And what would be the level of difficulty for a inexperienced person such as myself to replace these (if they are in fact "bad")?
|
JNZTuning: 2g DS Rebuild Kit
I wouldn't consider it EXPENSIVE to replace, just more of a pain in the butt to do the rebuild/installation of it all. Just be sure that if you do drop the DS and replace the carrier bearings yourself that you mark the alignment of the DS before disassembling it. If you don't, or for whatever reason you marked it wrong, you'll have to take it to someone to get it balanced so it doesn't vibrate like hell. That DS Rebuild Kit that I linked to above DOES NOT include the u-joints, if you want to get those as well (which I suggest since you are tearing apart the DS) call JNZ and ask to include them as well.
To get an idea of what you'll actually be getting yourself into here is a VFAQ Article on it. 1g DS Rebuild
____________________________
-Corey Jenson
E-OCHOCINCO Powered FP HTA68 / stock 7-bolt / Shep 4
|
|
|
07-10-2011, 10:20 PM
|
Show Printable Version
Email this Post
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Proven Member

From: Overland Park, Kansas
Registered: Apr 2011
Reputation:
|
Check the three bushings on by your rear differential. My LSD rear end went out from lots of hard launches screwing up those bushings and causing the rear differential to go out. (had chunks of gear and clutch material in it). Juat check all the rubber busing you see for play or cracking or even torn. Oh by the way got my Brembo's on.  not very hard at all. Have had them on for like 2 weeks with no issues.
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
» Recent DSM Videos |
|
|
» Online Users: 847 |
| 327 members and 520 guests |
| Most users ever online was 1,704, 03-17-2008 at 09:11 PM. |
|
|
|
|