Exhaust manifold gasket question

[spritian]

I have a really bad exhaust leak from the gasket I posted in the pic. What kind of gasket do you all use here because I always get a leak here after 2000 miles or so. Anyone got a part number? Also does anyone know the stock part number that I can give to get it at like autozone? Thanks

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[LiquidX]

First, make sure you are using the proper mounting hardware. OEM turbo bolts and 2 OEM conical washers/bolt along with anti-seize. As for the gasket, I highly recommend using Forced Performance Turbochargers: Mitsubishi DSM Turbine Housing Inlet Gasket

It's an OEM MLS gasket and will prevent your leaks. I'm going to assume you are using the solid steel "gasket"? Those tend to warp and crack over time and I do not suggest using them at all.

 

[romeen]

I agree with everything that Scott said. I doubt AZ will have a good gasket for our turbos but who knows. Not sure what type of nuts/washers you are using on those studs but they might be vibrating loose causing the leak to reoccur. Oem turbo bolts (preferably with "11" on the bolt head) along with 2 oem cone type washers per bolt is the way to go. If the EM outlet/turbine inlet are not ported then I would recommend using the oem sealing ring as well for extra insurance.

 

[snow_ape]

I just replaced my exhaust gaskets with a set from ffwdconnection The embossed copper gaskets are holding up well and seal great. It's also a good opportunity when replacing these to gasket match all your exhaust componentry to optimize flow.
Just don't buy the head to manifold copper gasket. the port openings are super small and even a mildly ported head will not seal properly. For head to manifold go with a victor Reinz, everything else exhaust related ffwd embossed copper. while your at it it's never bad to switch to ARP hardware if you don't already have it.

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/copper.shtml

 

[romeen]

I just replaced my exhaust gaskets with a set from ffwdconnection The embossed copper gaskets are holding up well and seal great. It's also a good opportunity when replacing these to gasket match all your exhaust componentry to optimize flow.
Just don't buy the head to manifold copper gasket. the port openings are super small and even a mildly ported head will not seal properly. For head to manifold go with a victor Reinz, everything else exhaust related ffwd embossed copper. while your at it it's never bad to switch to ARP hardware if you don't already have it.

FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

I disagree. I've read several posts from guys that have blown their ffwd copper gaskets. Any gasket can fail but the factory MLS ones have earned a good reputation.

ARP makes great fasteners and I'm a fan of their products. With the exception of the turbo-manifold bolts. Again, have come across numerous posts from guys who had their ARP bolts seize up in the turbine housing. The stock Mitsubishi ones with the "11" on the bolt head seem to work great. Maybe the bolt alloy better matches the expansion/contraction characteristics of the factory housings (just speculation).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/300511-11-exhaust-mani-turbo-bolts.html

 

[LiquidX]

I agree with you Roomen. The Copper gaskets do so good but are known to either melt or blow out easily due to being a softer metal and a lower melting point. They are only good IMO for full race serums when you are constantly checking specs. Mainly due to constant compression changes in the copper.

The copper head gaskets are a good example as you need tonconstantly re torque the head studs. Also they are used as a fail safe for heat related issues. The copper will melt before causing head or block damage.

The ARP turbo bolts cracked on my application. However I only used the supplied ARP washers. I've read that if you use he conical OEM washers then you won't have that issue. I would still go with OEM bolts however.

 

[No_Skillz]

When you have the turbo off, check the mating surfaces of the exhaust housing as well as the exhaust manifold. If they are damaged, have grooves, warped, i.e. anything other than flat, consider a quick and cheap resurfacing.

 

[spritian]

Thanks for all the replies! I found an unused stock gasket in the meantime while I wait for the fp gasket and new studs/bolts to arrive... It's nice not to have turbo lag anymore woot!

 

[Diehardmitsu]

If the mating surfaces aren't flat, it won't seal regradless of what gasket you use.