Clutch Disengagement issue after going from PTT to XTD

[4gfun]

Alright, I have done my XTD Stage 4 PP/Clutch/Flywheel swap. I got the car back together and it started right up after 4 months of sitting there.

Now that you all have identified this as a disengagement issue I want to be sure that nothing is seriously wrong before I start bleeding and adjusting.

This is the history for those of you that don't already know:

I was flooring it down the road with my former PTT Setup (PTT Flywheel, PP, Twin Discs).

I was at the top of 3rd gear when all of the sudden the car stopped moving and all that I got was a grinding noise which completely stranded me. Any attempt to put it into any gear was met with grinding.

I tore it all down and noticed that the hubs on the clutch disc were completely missing their splines. The input shaft (at least the part that I could see) was absolutely perfect.

I drained the tranny fluid and didn't notice any metal shavings.

I took a risk that the tranny is ok and did my clutch swap as a true novice. I didn't shim the ball since the tranny only has about 30k on it.

I took a risk and didn't shim the ball. I took a look at RRE's website and believe that I lucked out since the end of the fork was facing ever so slightly to the driver's side when it hit the pressure plate. (I won't be taking chances like that again BTW).

I got everything all back together and the clutch pedal has very little feeling of tension when I press on it.

You all had metioned that this is a disengagement issue and I appreciate that. I am just scared that I didn't do the clutch swap right and doofed something up.

You all suggested that I bleed the master and slave but I am wondering if it is at all normal for the clutch to not disengage AT ALL after a swap.

I never opened the system so I am not sure why there would be any air in there.

I used to be savvy with this stuff but now I am just not as bright!

Thank you!

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Happened to me after My xtd stage 4 swap, after a log while I bled and readjusted theclutch, shifts like butter up until today where my car now stays in 4th gear.... This is a whole separate issue though.
-shane

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I agree. If the clutch hasn't been bled properly then it is likely you may not be building enough to pressure to disengage the clutch at all.
Keep pumping and keep bleeding.

Btw, you'll have to give us a run down on the difference from going from a twin disc to an XTD.

EDIT: If you get a helper, does the slave have nice throw when you depress the clutch? If you are in fact moving the slave sufficiently and the clutch still isn't disengaging then you may have larger issues than air in your lines.

 

[donniekak]

I have never used their flywheel, but with their disk, and pressure plate, i've always had to back the adjustment rod out. You should bleed it as well.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks all...I'll give you the shakedown on the swap once I get her rolling. I don't believe that I will see much of a difference since the XTD setup was only 5 lbs. heavier when I stepped on the scale.

With the wife in the car, she presses the clutch pedal down and the slave cylinder piston moves out just fine which is worrying me. However, I am not sure how far it should actually move out. Maybe it isn't enough?

I am going to adjust the master cylinder rod outward and see what happens.

Thanks!

 

[EGuenther]

I don't know anything about the xtd clutch. I do know that when using a PTT, a slave cylinder with a shorter throw is required. Most likely you have the Isuzu slave on the car. If the XTD uses the stock slave, it would explain it not disengaging.

 

[4gfun]

Alrighty, turned the master cylinder rod out and shifts like butter now. The only thing is that I had to turn it enough where not much is left in the bracket as far as the rod goes. I have had this happen on my previous dsm. In that case the rod would fall out during hard shifting. This is nearly as bad.

Will bleeding possibly have any effect on this? Is this all because I didn't shim the ball? The fork position was slightly to the drivers side when I started off. Perhaps I do have an Isuzu Slave I there?

Thanks for any ideas. At least I know the engine or tranny isn't damaged.

 

[SOADweskey]

If you have an Isuzu slave it will be pretty obvious since it is not a direct bolt on and it will have had it's mounting flanges hacked and re-drilled to fit.

 

[bastarddsm]

Screw the adjustment rod all the way in and re bleed you clutch. Then adjust it out again. I'm told that the master cylinder doesn't go through its whole cycle, and gets air trapped in it if you try to bleed it with the adjuster all the way out.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Ensure you have not adjusted the pedal to the point where you can no longer depress the slave by hand. That is the indicator for maximum adjustment.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks all...the GVR4 is definitely streetable now. I will get this right shortly. For those who asked about this downgrade...I can't tell the difference at all.

 

[4gfun]

Well I am still having trouble. I tried the Jack's transmissions link and followed those directions. Unfortunately, I cannot get the end of the fork to ever be rigid enough where I can't push it in towards the slave cylinder by pressing on it.

Does this mean that I should have shimmed the ball?

I am also noticing some brake fluid on the master cylinder threads towards the inside of the car. I guess that the master is bad? I know that the master cylinder is not very old. Previous owner replaced it not that long ago and I am positive that he did.

This is all happening when I turn the master cylinder thread all the way in towards the firewall. The car is most certainly driveable but it is notchy into 3rd gear. Never had that notchiness before replacing the clutch. I have done some searching and the 3rd gear notchiness seems to sometimes be a disengagement issue.

I also bled the system with the master cylinder rod all the way in.

Any ideas?

Thanks!