Help with Maintenance

[Rulier]

Just put a new clutch, 3 new engine mounts and one for the transmission. Then the synchros for 3rd and 4th gear. After that, it refuses to change gears to 1st or reverse without making a weird noise, If i turn it on while on the gear then it takes the gear.

The shift lever is very hard to move from gears to gears. I also feel the clutch pedal has less resistance and it either stays half way and i have to help raise it up, or it's real slow going to it's normal position.

Want to make sure what's wrong with it before taking it to the mechanic

 

[JStrateger]

I would give jack transmissions a call or post in their forums.

Jacks Transmissions LLC — Welcome

They're fairly helpful and won't mind giving you a bit of info to help you along. You might even be able to PM him on here, not sure how often he checks tuners though.

 

[KyDSM]

You might want to bleed the slave cyclinder and/or replace it. It may not be releasing all the way thus giving the resistance in the shifter.

 

[agentorange313]

Just put a new clutch, 3 new engine mounts and one for the transmission. Then the synchros for 3rd and 4th gear. After that, it refuses to change gears to 1st or reverse without making a weird noise, If i turn it on while on the gear then it takes the gear.

The shift lever is very hard to move from gears to gears. I also feel the clutch pedal has less resistance and it either stays half way and i have to help raise it up, or it's real slow going to it's normal position.

Want to make sure what's wrong with it before taking it to the mechanic

Can you transmission go into any other gear fine? It sounds like something might be wrong with the shift forks, maybe they are bent since you said the car doesn't goes into 1st, I am assuming it goes into second. 1-2 are on a shift fork 3-4 and 5-R have there own. The shift fork moves the synchronizer assembly into gear. Does the

What type of noise? A "weird" sounds isnt very descriptive. DSMs make a lot of sounds and noises.

I would also bleed you clutch system.

 

[carnalforce]

Typically R and 1st are the first two gears to go, they may be on their way out.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Typically R and 1st are the first two gears to go, they may be on their way out.

Thats why when I replace a syncro, I just replace them all.

 

[iwillnotbleed]

I forgot what transmission site I saw it on, I think it was Jack's, but if your transmission needs one shift fork replaced, or one of anything, it's better to rebuild the whole thing. If you just replace one thing you're asking for problem's with it.

edit: I have no experience with replacing just one thing. This is just info I read from a reputable tranny shop.

 

[Rulier]

Can you transmission go into any other gear fine? It sounds like something might be wrong with the shift forks, maybe they are bent since you said the car doesn't goes into 1st, I am assuming it goes into second. 1-2 are on a shift fork 3-4 and 5-R have there own. The shift fork moves the synchronizer assembly into gear. Does the

What type of noise? A "weird" sounds isnt very descriptive. DSMs make a lot of sounds and noises.

I would also bleed you clutch system.

You might want to bleed the slave cyclinder and/or replace it. It may not be releasing all the way thus giving the resistance in the shifter.

I left the car for the weekend so it's not with me, my dad said he bled the clutch and in his words "It's working like it should" clutch doesn't stay down and gets in and out of gears like normal.

The noise it was making was like a high pitched squeal, as if the clutch wasn't all the way down. That's as best I can describe it.

Doesn't sound like when the 4th gear synchro was out, that sound was as horrible as a kick on the balls and pulling your nose hairs at the same time.

If this happens again can I assume it's the slave cylinder gone bad?


Still for maintenance:

-Find an annoying short that keeps blowing up the fuse for the heater
-Fix the power lock, passenger door won't lock

Has anyone happened to stumble into one of these?

 

[iwillnotbleed]

With the lock, there's a linkage inside your door where the key cylinder is. You'll have to take the interior door peice off to get to it, of coarse. There was a little clip that fell of that linkage on mine. I put that clip back on, tight, and it works fine now. Not sure how close a 1g and 2g are in the locking system but that might give you some idea's.

 

[Rulier]

Update on my quest to finish the maintenance:

Did this:

Installed the new fog lamps.

Fixed the door lock on the passenger door

Installed the home made ground kit

Found a very worn out cable with duct tape around it, and fixed it.

Car is now idling at 800rpm instead of 1200rpm

Better lighting

Installed new speakers



Bad new stuff:

Every time I turn on the fogs the fuse for it blows.

Power lock on passenger door works after i hit the button 2 or 3 times depends how fast I do it (inner lights dim every time i push it). After it locks it will work just fine.



Old bad stuff that I thought I fixed:

Car will start when it wants to, mostly when it's cold. If the car isn't moving at all it will turn off by it's own. But if it's running down the street the rpm's will drop to 0 and if i'm lucky it will go back up to where it was, if not it will stay in 0 until it stops and turns off.


I have checked the car all over and the only thing I think can be the culprit is this: as you can see it's completely fried and I think it only works sometime, anyone can tell me what it is so I can replace it?

 

[steve]

That's the power transistor to drive the coils. He's already dead Jim.

 

[Rulier]

Thanks a lot! Since it's the one that drives the coils, then it's probably the reason for this whole mess.

 

[KyDSM]

IDK if its just me, but the power transistor is mounted in the wrong place.

Edit: I know on a 1g its mounted on the timing belt side of the intake manifold.

 

[Rulier]

So after putting in the new power transistor. Car finally turned over and ran an idle at 1,200rpm that eventually lowered to 700 when it got warmer.

Took it for a spin on the neighborhood and ... it dies. Thinking i forgot how to drive manual transmission, since its been so long, i start it again. Car turns over fine, going fine at around 200rpm and then suddenly rpms drop to 0, pushing on accelerator did'nt do a thing and barely could move the wheel as if car turned off. suddenly it goes back up all the way to 3000rpm to just letting me stranded in my own neighborhood.

I try to start it again but this time, only the dash lights come on, and really dim as if very low on battery and won't even do the effort of cranking. Called my neighbor pushed it to the garage as to not be on the middle of the street and left it there.

So any ideas?

CEL turns codes for-> MDP, knock sensor and oxygen sensor 2

I checked the MDP and from what the haynes manual says, it checks out ok

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Man, seems like nothing but bad luck for you. Is the car cranking at all? Starter, alternator???

 

[Cruz67]

I've never ran my mdp sensor and my car runs fine

 

[KyDSM]

Sounds just like my cousins Talon. Same problem and it ended up being the Cam Angle Sensor.

 

[Rulier]

Man, seems like nothing but bad luck for you. Is the car cranking at all? Starter, alternator???

Friend that helped me push suggested it could be that, but I think it wouldn't explain why its giving those jumping rpms. Alternator has lifetime warranty and starter don't think it has been changed so I'll start from there

I've never ran my mdp sensor and my car runs fine

That's a relief one thing less to check, I guess

Sounds just like my cousins Talon. Same problem and it ended up being the Cam Angle Sensor.

Does a cam Angle Sensor throw a CEL? It doesn't show but it could be, so i'll check that too

Thanks for the quick response

 

[Rulier]

So going to go now check on the CAS, hope it;s just dirty so i dont have to buy a new one.

Just so I do this properly, I want to keep the "learning by breaking" stuff to a minimum, the CAS is behind the intake cam gear, right? Do I have to remove the gear so I can get to the CAS or can i just bypass that and take the CAS wihtout doing that?

Found this link, but I don't have the set of tools, (I'm alone in the university) neighbors college students as well so there gone for the holy week

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/200713-intake-cam-gear.html

So decided that taking out the CAS was impossible for me. What I did wastake off the block lid to check if I could see it and check how dirty it was.

Found out that the seal and O-rings are pretty worn out, and.. pause for suspense.. theres a lifter missing in cylinder 3 also the cam from it has a thin film of oxide so it's been running like that since god knows when..

What is wrong with this car?! It loves to keep me surprised.