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How to raise oil pressure with a new built engine

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Eeeeky

10+ Year Contributor
344
4
Oct 8, 2008
Roosevelt, Utah
Hi everyone. Ive recently finished the build on my new engine. There are pictures of the build in my blog. This is built with the best of the best. Included in this was a BSEK. I removed rotated, and replaced the front balance shaft bearing, but not the rear one, as per the VFAQ.

The engine has a brand new oil pump/front case, and Forward facing oil filter housing, etc.

The oil pressure is fairly low on the stock gauge. I reused the oil pressure sender, and cleaned it up with some solvent and an air hose, but the needle doesnt come to the second mark on the stock pressure gauge, even under WOT, or higher rpms.

Im running 10w-40 right now, and will be switching to 20w-50 when it warms up, but id like to see the oil pressure a little higher. Im wondering if maybe the oil filter housing has an effect on oil pressure? Would it be higher if i changed it back to the factory oil filter housing?


I suppose if i had to i could take it back apart, and turn that rear BS bearing, i could..but id like to avoid that.

Any thoughts?
 
did you fill the oil pump with a lube of some form to prime it and crank the car to build oil pressure before starting? If you didnt you might have an air pocket or improperly primed oil pump.
 
Yeah sorry i forgot to mention that. Packed EVERYTHING with assembly lube, and primed the engine while on the stand, before doing the timing.
 
Like any fresh rebuild without balance shafts, the oil pressure should be significantly higher than stock. However, the stock oil pressure gauge is junk. You should get an autometer gauge to get a better read on the oil pressure.

Lets start with that first.
 
There are two bearings on the front shaft that need to be rotated as both have oil galley holes. the rear shaft does not require any turning of bearings as it has no oil galley in the bearing. It seems as if you only turned on bearing on the front balance shaft. the one on the front of the motor closest to the transmission side.
 
I agree with the "oil pressure should be higher" statement. However its lower. I spose when i get bored, ill take it all apart, and turn the rear bearing for the front shaft. Hopefully that will make this a little less stressful for me.

Maybe when i read the vfaq on the BSE, i misread the meaning of "rear bearing"

On that note, i used a large socket to remove to bearing in the front, however the second bearing in a different size. Ill have to take a measurement from the balance shaft, and find a socket that will work, and make a project of it.


Ive got a mechanical oil pressure gauge, its just a pain to run the copper line inside. However, ill do it to see what i have.
 
Well whats you needs is some of that there good ol lucas oil stabalazer stuff! LOL On a serious note, be sure to seal those threads on the pipe fittings when installing and extra rtv never hurts. Also remember the thread size on the fitting you use. Its often people use adapters or tap the threads.
 
Yessir, i usually use some teflon on NPT fittings. Im not new to the performance world, or 4g63's, i just figured there may be some trick out there, that i havnt heard of..hehe.
 
Oh, if you only flipped one bearing, then there's you're problem. Easy fix, but a pain. I used a slightly modified axle nut socket to push mine out. I forget what size, but I had to grind it down a bit to make it fit perfect.

Its been a while, correct me if I'm wrong, but you may be able to use the balance shaft to knock it out.
 
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