1G: remove crankshaft pulley

DSM_IKE · 11-20-2010, 06:12 PM

So I need to pull my crank pulley to change the oil seal. I tried once but could not get the nut to come loose. Is it reverse or standard thread?

slugo17 · 11-20-2010, 06:21 PM

I believe it's standard. Impact wrench will have it off in seconds.

crash89 · 11-20-2010, 07:15 PM

Impact would work yes! But for those us unfortunate enough to have the luxery of air tools I just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar! Just put the breaker bar in so the handle is hanging down, and I sit in front of the car and kick the bar! Should work with a kick or 2!

DSM nOOb · 11-20-2010, 07:27 PM

its standard thread +1 on impact

96eclipzGsT · 11-20-2010, 07:50 PM

Put a breaker bar on it, wedge it against the body and hit the key!

DSM_IKE · 11-20-2010, 08:04 PM

I don't have an impact wrench and when I hook up my breaker bar to it but it just spins the crank.

thetech0922 · 11-20-2010, 08:17 PM

Well u could give it the Ole heave ho!!! Try put your breaker bar on it and giving it a sharp, hard blows with a hammer...the force and the vibration may knock it loose too

19Eclipse90 · 11-20-2010, 10:07 PM

You can build this nifty tool that will keep the engine from rotating as you safely break the bolt loose: Crankshaft sprocket tool

As mentioned above, many people use what is called the "bump" method to loosen the crankshaft bolt. To do this, you must either have the timing belt still on the car or have removed the camshafts (or the whole head, if you are in that position) so the valves are not open. The engine will rotate clockwise when the starter is engaged. To be safe, pull the MPI (Engine) 30A Fuse under the hood to keep the engine from starting. Place the appropriate socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt where the breaker bar is resting on the control arm or wedge it against the ground. Put the key in the ignition and "bump" the starter.

I don't care for that method, so I make certain I have another person available. Put the car in 5th gear and have the other person hold the brakes hard. Use a 1/2" breaker bar with appropriate socket and cheater bar if available and give that bolt hell. This, unlike the bump method, works to tighten and torque the bolt.

Still others use pneumatic tools for quickest removal: Removing the bolt that holds the crankshaft sprocket

DSM_IKE · 11-20-2010, 10:28 PM

Yea i tried the 5th gear and someone on the brakes.. Ive done that one before with other cars, but even in gear the crank still turns. But your link has helped me out a bit and will let you all know how things go.

gusu · 11-20-2010, 10:56 PM

When we changed my timing belt i had a he'll of a time getting it off. We maxed out his 100 galon air compressor and all the other stuff his dad had from his old shop. We ended up having to have him take a pulley chain and his 2 foot breaker bar but that wasn't enough so we got a 3 foot fence post to put on the breaker bar. With us pushing and his dad jumping on it, for about 2 minutes it finally broke loose. It made the most ungodly sound and I thought we had snapped the crank

.

9!'clipseDOHC · 11-21-2010, 06:25 AM

Um, if you just want to take off the pulley there only are 4, 12 mm bolts holding it on. The large bolt in the center does NOT hold the harmonic dampener (crankshaft pulley). It holds the crankshaft sprocket to the actual crankshaft.

However, if you just want to take it off, I use lots of PB Blaster, a chain wrench around the pulley, and a 1/2" drive breaker bar in the center of the bolt. Has always worked for me. BUT like I said, you do NOT need to remove this bolt to remove the pulley.

Hope this helps!

XiKeiyaZI · 11-21-2010, 06:31 AM

Haha. Yes...please clarify. Are you JUST removing the Pulley, or are you trying to remove the entire assembly from the end of the crank?

The Large center bolt holds the Timing Belt Teeth Pulley to the crank. The 4 10MM bolts (I thought they were 12MM?) hold the Water Pump/AC Belt pulley to the crank. When you take those 4 bolts off the pulley will just slide right off.

Your best bet is to rent or borrow an impact gun for that large center bolt. That's about the only way you're going to easily get it off without getting a headache.

9!'clipseDOHC · 11-21-2010, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XiKeiyaZI

The Large center bolt holds the Timing Belt Teeth Pulley to the crank. The 4 10MM bolts (I thought they were 12MM?) hold the Water Pump/AC Belt pulley to the crank. When you take those 4 bolts off the pulley will just slide right off.

I just went and checked and you are correct, the 4 bolts which attach the harmonic dampener (crankshaft pulley) to the crankshaft sprocket are 12 mm. My post has been corrected.

XiKeiyaZI · 11-21-2010, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9!'clipseDOHC

I just went and checked and you are correct, the 4 bolts which attach the harmonic dampener (crankshaft pulley) to the crankshaft sprocket are 12 mm. My post has been corrected.

No sweat. I was about to go check myself on that too. I recall most of the bolts related to the engine and I just couldn't wrap my head around they idea that those 4 were 10MM.

19Eclipse90 · 11-21-2010, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9!'clipseDOHC

Um, if you just want to take off the pulley there only are 4, 12 mm bolts holding it on. The large bolt in the center does NOT hold the harmonic dampener (crankshaft pulley). It holds the crankshaft sprocket to the actual crankshaft.

Quote:

Originally Posted by XiKeiyaZI

Haha. Yes...please clarify. Are you JUST removing the Pulley, or are you trying to remove the entire assembly from the end of the crank?

Can't very well change an/"the" oil seal by only removing the crank pulley.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_IKE

So I need to pull my crank pulley to change the oil seal. I tried once but could not get the nut to come loose. Is it reverse or standard thread?

9!'clipseDOHC · 11-21-2010, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Eclipse90

Can't very well change an/"the" oil seal by only removing the crank pulley.

Very true, I missed that part.

dooblea · 11-21-2010, 10:15 AM

What i have done before is put a 12mm wrench on one of the 4 pulley bolts, along with a bar over it for leverage (to keep the motor from spinning) then put a 1/2" breaker bar(the bigger the better, as long as you have room to move it) on the middle bolt and loosen it that way.

DSM_IKE · 11-21-2010, 10:16 AM

Ha ha, yes I do know that the pulley itself is only on by 4 12s. Sorry I wasn't clear.

crash89 · 11-21-2010, 12:30 PM

I had one sprocket that was pretty siezed one time and I was trying to break it loose with just the block (outside of the car) I had to put a bar between the crank and the girdle so the crankshaft wouldnt move, then after about a day or so of soaking the bolt with liquid wrench I took the 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe and a few minutes of me standing on the end of the pipe with a little bouncing before the bolt came loose.

jdavisawd · 11-21-2010, 12:57 PM

I used a chain strap wrench to hold the pulley while i had a breaker bar cranking on it. Pb blaster is a good thing to.

dexterholland04 · 11-21-2010, 01:23 PM

My method requires 2 socket wrenches (or a socket wrench and a breaker bar...etc). Grab a block of wood/cinder block or whatever and take socket wrench 1 and set it on the block while making sure that the socket is on one of the crank pulley bolts. Take the other socket wrench and use it to break loose the other 3 pulley bolts. Turn the crank/switch wrench positions until all 4 pulley bolts are loose. This method worked every time for me, and it's even easier if you have a buddy holding on to the other wrench.

DSM1G90 · 11-21-2010, 03:44 PM

I did the ol' breaker bar method: the bar rests on the left axle, took the MPI fuse out and hit the key for a second. "Pop!" bolt came loose.

NOW, tightening up that bolt (100ft lbs) is the trick needed for a chain wrench and a beam torque wrench.