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Question about changing lifters

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unisonicz

10+ Year Contributor
192
0
Sep 23, 2010
Clarksville, Tennessee
Hi, I am about to swap out my stock lifters for a set of TopLine revised lifters, I have a 95 GST and came across this article: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/265060-how-replace-lash-adjusters-lifters.html

Now to my question. Is there anything that I should be aware of other than what was stated in that "How To"? I have bought a replacement valve cover gasket, should I get some liquid gasket stuff to be on the safe side? Basically looking for Tips and Tricks for this surgery.

Thanks!
 
Yeah, Youre going to want to use liquid gasket/RTV to be on the safe side, especially where the cover meets the cams, that area can be tricky to seal with just a gasket.
 
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Use RTV sealant in the corners of the half round parts around the cams , And put it in the small half moon piece that is seperate from the rest, And on top, make sure you torque the valve cover evenly or you will crack it. I believe the torque spec is 36 in. lb.(Correct me if i am wrong). Also make sure you torque it in the same fashion you would do a head, I usually start on the outside first. If you have any questions, Just ask.

P.s. the video is from youtube user name Asmo6 There are more video's pertaining to the work you are taking on.
 
Take the time to make sure the head surfaces are clean so that the gaskets make good seals. Take a painter's putty knife and take off any excess from the previous gaskets and use a little solvent to get it nice and smooth.

May or may not be necessary depending who you talk to, but I soaked my new lifters in some 5W-20 oil for while as well.

FYI: the lifters will probably tick and make noise for a few minutes after the first start up. They should quiet down a little bit though. Mine did for maybe two or three minutes.
 
Whenever replacing general components like lifters, headgaskets, oil pumps etc. it is always a good deal to go with Mitsu OEM parts. Usually are better quality.
 
Ok, replaced the lifters. Turns out there was already revised lifters in it. Swapped them out anyways. Bled the new lifters double and triple checking them, new gaskets+RTV. Started it up, let it run for about 5 min, drove it a couple miles and it is still ticking. Should i give it a few days or should i be thinking bent valves?
 
i think 36 ft lbs is a bit much for the valve cover? Although I might be wrong. Yea they will tick for a little while. Give it some time
 
Didnt catch that.... so 3ft lbs....that seems a little to low for me LOL.Thats like finger tight with no tools
 
The VC is put on just a hair tighter than hand tight. I personally use a nut driver a make it slightly snug when you need to use your own force to turn it
 
Yea, i didnt like the feel of 36in.lb. so i set the wrench to 36in.lb and did a quarter turn after.

Also, as soon as I hit 3200RPM or so in any gear the ticking goes away...I don't know if this is relevant or not though.
 
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i think 36 ft lbs is a bit much for the valve cover? Although I might be wrong. Yea they will tick for a little while. Give it some time

in. lbs...Inch pounds. It isnt much, But it is spec. I did mine to 36" and have had no problems. It's a rubber gasket, It makes a good seal as long as you use RTV you will never have a problem. Think of it as installing an oil filter, You dont put that on with any tools, Imagine if it fell off on a spirited run. The rubber gasket does the work.
 
in. lbs...Inch pounds. It isnt much, But it is spec. I did mine to 36" and have had no problems. It's a rubber gasket, It makes a good seal as long as you use RTV you will never have a problem. Think of it as installing an oil filter, You dont put that on with any tools, Imagine if it fell off on a spirited run. The rubber gasket does the work.

I know what in. lbs means. Hm....funny that you say that you dont use tools to put on an oil filter. Lol I thought they had straps and oil filter wrenches...guess i was wrong.
 
Ok, so I received my new lifters(TopLine Revised) and put them in. Turns out my car already had revised lifters in it but I replaced them with the new ones anyways. I have drove my car around over the weekend and they are still ticking. They tick untill I hit around 3300 - 3400RPM then it goes away. I still only have the stock Oil PSI gauge and at idle it read really low...almost non existent. Once I get to said RPM Oil PSI builds and the tick goes away. I replaced the stock Oil PSI sending unit and it is still the same.

The motor and head have a little over 500 miles after rebuild. It was not ticking before I had it rebuilt. So I have no idea what the deal. Anyone else more experienced than I(wouldnt take much :rolleyes: LOL) care to chime in? I know the stock oil gauge is junk, but it is all I have ATM.

Also, I am using Castrol GTX synthetic 10w 30 with half a quart of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer.
 
Ok, so I received my new lifters(TopLine Revised) and put them in. Turns out my car already had revised lifters in it but I replaced them with the new ones anyways. I have drove my car around over the weekend and they are still ticking. They tick untill I hit around 3300 - 3400RPM then it goes away. I still only have the stock Oil PSI gauge and at idle it read really low...almost non existent. Once I get to said RPM Oil PSI builds and the tick goes away. I replaced the stock Oil PSI sending unit and it is still the same.

The motor and head have a little over 500 miles after rebuild. It was not ticking before I had it rebuilt. So I have no idea what the deal. Anyone else more experienced than I(wouldnt take much :rolleyes: LOL) care to chime in? I know the stock oil gauge is junk, but it is all I have ATM.

Also, I am using Castrol GTX synthetic 10w 30 with half a quart of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer.

If they milled the head, you need to take the head back off and clearance the oil port from the block to the head. There's an ongoing argument about this very subject in another thread on here. Let me look...

Viola> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html?highlight=oil+port
 
Thanks for the link, it is much appreciated. I read through it and was wondering would that also be causing my low oil PSI at the pressure sending unit? I am only asking because before the rebuild it would read really high because the balance shaft has been removed. I am just wondering if it is related or unrelated.
 
I know that when it's warm you only need about 20-25 psi (possibly less) at idle. By 3500 these cars typically show about 75-100 psi. If it's lower than that, and it dropped signifigantly after the rebuild, then I would be freaking out.

If you didn't build it yourself, then there's no real way to know what could have been done wrong other than a teardown. The first thing I would have done was hook up an aftermarket mechanical pressure gauge temporarilly to get some actual figures.
 
Yea, I am going to take it back to my mechanic and say....WTF!!!! LOL, j/k. I am going to see what he says though.
 
I know what in. lbs means. Hm....funny that you say that you dont use tools to put on an oil filter. Lol I thought they had straps and oil filter wrenches...guess i was wrong.

There are tools for oil filters but you should never put an oil filter on with tools. Spin till it contacts and another half turn. It will never leak.
 
I would still recommend getting the tool if you plan on having a DSM. I got mine for like $20 shipped and I probably save 30 mins total on the first job I did. I have since done a couple others and loaned the tool to others so overall that was money well spent.
 
You dont go inside out. You go top left corner, bottom right corner, bottom left corner, upper right corner...and work your way inside with the same pattern
 
You dont go inside out. You go top left corner, bottom right corner, bottom left corner, upper right corner...and work your way inside with the same pattern

I always thought you were supposed to torque them from the inside out as well. In fact I just torqued my brand new ARP's this way.
 
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