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Fight of the manual transmission fluids!!!

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giovanniv

10+ Year Contributor
384
0
Aug 8, 2008
normal, Illinois
Alright well i am in the process of trying to find the best transmission fluid to put in my car. Basically the options are, OEM, some brand of syncromesh, Redline, and Royal Purple. I have read countless threads on people recommending each but I want to know which one comes out on top out of all of these! But also if you have another tranny oil that you think is best feel free to share! Thanks everyone!
 
I'm pretty sure if you did your research more you'll find BG SyncroShift is superior oil for FWD/AWD transmissions and Red Line heavy weight is well proven for AWD transfer case and rear differential.
 
I'm pretty sure if you did your research more you'll find BG SyncroShift is superior oil for FWD/AWD transmissions and Red Line heavy weight is well proven for AWD transfer case and rear differential.

Umm i'm pretty sure I did research as I said above and I came up with those trans fluids being some of the best and I want to know which one is the superior from those or if there is possibly something better. Thanks for the help though!
 
Umm i'm pretty sure I did research as I said above and I came up with those trans fluids being some of the best and I want to know which one is the superior from those or if there is possibly something better. Thanks for the help though!

Umm... logical sense will tell you which the most preferred as most DSM performance shops have a common ground of selling BG Syncro Shift and Red Line.


Syncromesh=trans shifting like butter

Exactly, syncromesh especially BG Syncro Shift will fix grinding problems if you got any now.
 
Umm... logical sense will tell you which the most preferred as most DSM performance shops have a common ground of selling BG Syncro Shift and Red Line.




Exactly, syncromesh especially BG Syncro Shift will fix grinding problems if you got any now.

Please go through this thread and you will know why I am debating on which to choose.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...tranny-gear-oil-how-much-what-kind-where.html

Straight from the thread stated by Projectgs.

Strait from Jack's Transmissions website:

"DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty!"

Strait from TRE:

"While it has been found that the Synchromesh/Synchroshift type oils can sometimes improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers, allowing for faster shifts at higher rpms, this oil does not have enough film strength to ensure the longest gear and bearing for the Mitsubishi transmissions that lives behind a high torque engine. Synchromesh/shift type oils are used in transmissions that are found in low torque applications that don't ask much from the oil in regards of film strength. If you have a weak synchro, you may want to try the "Synchromesh /shift" type oils. However, it is our recommendation that you use the proper GL rating that the transmission was designed to use. Check your owner's manual for this information."

Strait from Shep Trans:

"There are several gear oils that will work depending on horsepower or intended use. For most transmissions we recommend Redline mt 90 or Pennzoil Synchromesh. For drag use or high horsepower cars please contact us. Please let us know if you need any Redline gear oil."

Looks like Shepherd is the only one that recommends a syncromesh type fluid. Then again he doesn't specify any others than Pennzoil


BUT then defiant posts differently and stands by syncromesh and says he's been using it since the stoneage.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
^^ I saw that diaqueen stuff of Jack's when I was looking for the evo mr tranny fluid but I saw that under the evo t-cases. I'm taking it that it doesn't matter?
 
I also use Amsoil's Manual Transmission and Transaxel Gear Lube 75w-90 that is linked above and here AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic and Manual Transmission Fluid

I had took my trans to Jack's 2 years ago to have him take a look at a noise in the trans which turned out to be a bad bearing on the Kaaz. When I picked it up , he told me that usually he sees wear on the gears from where they mesh with each other when you shift. He remarked he was surprised he did not see any wear.
I had been using Amsoil MTG in the trans and my car is a daily driver 44 miles to and from work and also sees track time about 10-16 times a year.

It is great stuff.
 
ok, so it looks like you all forgot Joe Gibbs Driven racing oil. they have gear oil that is of the same quality to redline or royal purple and its darn good stuff. personally though, i'm just going to use valvoline 80w90 specificly for LSD's. Synthetic gear oil isn't as worth it as it seems though because transmissions, transfer cases and diffs don't heat up like engines do and the only FULL benefit of synthetic oils is the superior breakdown qualities which aren't much of a concern in transmissions and such.
 
I personally run 1QT of Pennzoil synchromesh, top off the rest with Valvoline 75w-90 cause i get it for free.

I have a shep stage 2, when i first got it this is what i ran, shifted great - like butter.

I accidentally put in 80-90 a couple of weeks ago, now 3rd is notchy.
 
Trust me bro!!!You want Diaqueen its the BEST with out a shadow of a doubt in my book.......If you try it once you will never use ANYTHING ELSE PERIOD.Redline shockproof for the tcase... BTW Do not use Syncroshift it will ruin your tranny if your car is putting down decent power....
 
There seems to be some confusion here. Synchronizers are a brake in between the hub, and gear. They match the speed of the gear and hub so that when the slider locks the gear to the hub/shaft they are rotating at the same speed, synchronized. When they aren't matched you get a grind. Increasing the friction between the synchro and gear (synchromesh fluids) makes a worn synchro work better. Increasing the friction on the rest of the components in the trans is a side effect. In a light duty overbuilt gearbox this isn't much of a problem. In a trans with gears rated at 250 ft/lbs being pushed to 450 ft/lbs or more, it causes rapid wear of the bearings, and wear on already weak gears. Anybody that has pushed a dsm knows it's not if, but when the trans is going to break. Synchro type fluids make it happen faster.
 
Syncromesh was garbage in my opinion, it made the trans in my 2g very notchy and tough to shift and it drained out like water. I switched to Royal Purple and it was like butter again.

I'll be trying the OEM Evo MR fluid in 1g when it finally gets put together.
 
I run Amsoil MTL but I have run syncromesh in the past and feel that TRE and Shep are right. I can't say for certain what broke my tranny, but I do know I have never seen so much wear and polishing on gears as I did on my tranny which ran 30% syncromesh. I reused my intermediate shaft off a stock OEM original tranny that had 60,000 miles on it when I had another built tranny that was being toredown and rebuilt. I was shocked by the fact the stock oem tranny w/stock gear fluid had gear surfaces with very little wear. This could have been the stock gear stack preloading vs. the built tranny's higher preload, but the higher friction syncromesh and high preload I'm sure didn't help.
 
Hmm I am leaning more and more toward the diaqueen but what is the cheapest place that sells it? The cheapest I have found it is 85 bucks plus shipping for 4 quarts! Holy sh....
 
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