Newbie ForumBeginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
i went and did the BCS mod. i wasn't sure if there were pictures or not from someone else but i did take some to help out some people. this is from my first gen A, right on top of the stock airbox. hope this helps you guy's
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i just got back from going for a spin and i can feel it pulling a little bit harder and seems like like to turbo is a little bit more responsive down low. my boost gauge (witch is the factory one) still say's 13 psi, but it does feel like it has a little more in it, noticable more in 3 gear.
it will increase your boost about 1-2psi, i was 100% stock (even the radio) until i did this
it only had taken me like 4 mins, and was because i couldn't find my key's lol. worked great and easily, that was the only tool i needed screwed it in by hand and pulled on it nice and slow. wish they were all this easy.
why not just remove it and cap of the port and run the w/g vaccume hose straigt to the elbow?
Doesn't sound like you have any idea how the BCS works.
The whole point is to allow the turbo to boost higher than what you would get if you run the wastegate vacuum hose straight to the elbow. The BSC mod allows a couple of PSI more boost by allowing it to bleed off a little more air lowering the pressure in the hose to the wastegate.
Doesn't sound like you have any idea how the BCS works.
The whole point is to allow the turbo to boost higher than what you would get if you run the wastegate vacuum hose straight to the elbow. The BSC mod allows a couple of PSI more boost by allowing it to bleed off a little more air lowering the pressure in the hose to the wastegate.
ive never seen a stock dsm make much more than 9 or 10ish psi with or without the bcs, I have seen surly seen it make less with the bcs installed. and if your car is so stock to the point of retaining the bsc what kind of hp gains do you think you see with a 1psi increase in manifold pressure. I am guessing its nothing hair raising.
either way to each there own I just dont see the point in the retaining the part.
ive never seen a stock dsm make much more than 9 or 10ish psi with or without the bcs, I have seen surly seen it make less with the bcs installed. and if your car is so stock to the point of retaining the bsc what kind of hp gains do you think you see with a 1psi increase in manifold pressure. I am guessing its nothing hair raising.
either way to each there own I just dont see the point in the retaining the part.
You continue to miss the point. To do better you have to replace the BCS with a MBC or EBC and running directly like you suggested lowered boost over a functioning BCS.
This is a old school mod, free and the OP was kind enough to take some clear pictures of the process. +1 for him. It doesn't matter if this is the biggest or smallest mod in the world. If somebody has a stock car they can do this for nothing and see a gain.
Without a BCS your boost is set by the spring in the wastegate actuator. Once the air pressure exceeds the spring pressure the WGA opens.
The BCS is a bleeder valve. Because there is a flow restrictor in the hose from the manifold before the tee to the BCS it's possible to lower the local pressure in the hose to the WGA delaying when the local pressure exceeds the spring pressure and opening the wastegate. If you were seeing a difference then you had a problem. I seem to remember something like 10hp for every psi increase over stock with diminishing returns as you continued to increase boost because of the stock turbo, IC, etc. This mod added about 2 psi to what the BSC was able to do. Where else do you find extra hp for nothing.
A manual boost controller is typically a gate that blocks air from reaching the WGA until it exceeds some higher pressure. Once the MBC allows air to pass the WGA quickly opens the wastegate.
Stock wastegate actuator on a 14b opens at 9psi, they aimed for 11.1psi from the factory in manual 1Gs.
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I was saying what I typically see. there is defiantly going to be variances between cars.
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Originally Posted by steve
You continue to miss the point. To do better you have to replace the BCS with a MBC or EBC and running directly like you suggested lowered boost over a functioning BCS.
I know when I used the bcs my pressure seemed to change from day to day which entirely makes sense since its a bleeder valve and air changes. Above somebody stated it made a 1-2psi gain. I would choose a completly stable pressure over a few psi... just my opinion..
Quote:
Without a BCS your boost is set by the spring in the wastegate actuator. Once the air pressure exceeds the spring pressure the WGA opens.
The BCS is a bleeder valve. Because there is a flow restrictor in the hose from the manifold before the tee to the BCS it's possible to lower the local pressure in the hose to the WGA delaying when the local pressure exceeds the spring pressure and opening the wastegate. If you were seeing a difference then you had a problem. I seem to remember something like 10hp for every psi increase over stock with diminishing returns as you continued to increase boost because of the stock turbo, IC, etc. This mod added about 2 psi to what the BSC was able to do. Where else do you find extra hp for nothing.
Yes I know how a bleeder valve works in a vacuum system and a diaphragm as well. 10hp per psi thats non exciting and I dont even thing the butt dyno could feel the difference.
Quote:
A manual boost controller is typically a gate that blocks air from reaching the WGA until it exceeds some higher pressure. Once the MBC allows air to pass the WGA quickly opens the wastegate.
Yeah this imo is a much better alternative to a wood screw bcs super pamp broke nga mod. Sorry just my opinion. anybody with access to a crescent wrench and 5 dollars can get creative and make a mbc.
I am not saying this doesnt work just not seeing the ends justifying the means I guess its good if somebody wants to do something free to their car to make more power but I have always been an advocate for not doing stuff to your car to make more power unless you have some cash.
Question, about jBCS mods. On a stock car the line running from the nipple to the wastegate actuator is tee'd, and runs to the BCS. You wouldn't see higher boost taking the tee out, and running straight from the BCS to the nipples?
If your still running the BCS you should go out and do this. Just be careful, check first to make sure it hasn't been done and not to screw in too far breaking the BCS nipple.
I think its very well done. Very cheap mod. Who cares if its a wood screw. And finally somebody has taken the time to take pictures while doing it. Im sure it will help someone at some point.
agreed... some people just want a quick 1 min mod when the can have one... its just for fun!!
when they are ready to through a MBC on there and turn up the boost to 16psi they will do so.. not to say the want to cause some people dont even want to run that high!
And to ask again i saw a post up a few saying the hose going from the WGA straigh to the Intake pipe would run about 9psi... Is this true??
If so i really dont mind, cause i want to get use to my car hitting boost till i turn it up!
Plus i have a MBC sitting in my cup holder waiting till im ready!
and even so i need to break in the motor before i crank her up to 15-16 psi!!
And to ask again i saw a post up a few saying the hose going from the WGA straigh to the Intake pipe would run about 9psi. Is this true??
With the WGA hose connected directly to manifold pressure the WG will open at whatever spring pressure you have in the WGA. On a stock 14b WGA that's about 8 psi. It can be different on other turbos.
Boost creep is the condition where the WG has opened but not enough exhaust is going out the WG to keep the boost from continuing to rise. This often happens because of high backpressure in the wastegate side of the O2 housing/exhaust. I mention this because it's one way you might see higher boost than you expected.
Oh man, I always wondered why there was 1/2 a sheet rock screw stuck in the solenoid bouncing around near the air filer from one of the previous owners. Someone in the last 19 years must have only gotten part way through the directions.