timing belt problems

[bluegs03]

Hey there, i have a unique timing belt problems. I finally got it all aligned perfectly and all of the marks line up.

The problem that im having is this, when i started the car and then shut it down to check for leaks i noticed that my timing belt had drifted from the center of the gears to the engine side (it drifted to the left looking from the front of the car) I also noticed that there was fraying already on the left side of the belt. Upon further investigation it seems to be rubbing against the crankshaft sprocket, because when you peel the belt toward you that area is super polished as if something was rubbing against it.


Now all of the timing components are brand new, so a warped pulley is out of the question and it cant be the tensioner thingy ### thats new and the tensioner pulley is tightened to spec where the 2 holes are facing up.

is it possible i have put something on backwards? or something silly like that? most of the components were pretty self explanatory in the direction they went on...
Im pretty stumped here so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can upload pictures if requested but my cameras acting funny.

 

[Jeff99GS]

You could have put the tension pulley on backwards.

But if you say its rubbing something I would check the 10mm bolt for the oil pan that is directly under the timing belt between the oil pump sprocket and the crank sprocket.

If you put the wrong bolt in there that is too long it will stick up and grind the edge of the belt.

 

[bluegs03]

oh sorry i forgot to mention that, just in case i took those 2 bolts completely out for now to eliminate that as a possible problem but i am using the really small bolts there as specified.

I will check the tension pulley, but if its on backwards arent the 2 bolts where you tighten it not visible?

 

[Jeff99GS]

Yes, normally if the pulley was backwards you would NOT see the 2 holes for the tension tool. Did you get a stock pulley?

All you can do now is get a new belt and redo the job. Pull off both pulleys and check them thoroughly.

 

[bluegs03]

Yea all components are oem original parts. Im going to take it all off and try again, also what about the trigger plate on the crankshaft sprocket? I read a thread about that wearing the timing belt down if its on backwards...

 

[Jeff99GS]

Yea all components are oem original parts. Im going to take it all off and try again, also what about the trigger plate on the crankshaft sprocket? I read a thread about that wearing the timing belt down if its on backwards...

It could be...Its worth checkin it out. I can usually tell which way it goes by the marks and wear from years of use. There will be some dots on it from the holes in the sprocket.

 

[bluegs03]

Ok so i have some super basic smack yourself in the forehead if you get them wrong questions. *puts flame suit on*
Ok so the crankshaft sprocket and parts all have a specific way that they go on the vehicle. I took pics of every possible way they can go on and can you guys tell me which picture shows the correct way they go on the car. its kind of like that horrible box you got as a kid where you tried to put the square peg in the round hole...

Here goes nothing

This is the physical crank sprocket

Way #1

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way #2

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this is the tin cover that the timing belt was rubbing on it goes underneath the crank sprocket.

way #1 (this is with the bulge heading toward the outside of the car)

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Way #2 ( this is with the bulge heading toward the inside of the car or toward the engine)

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Ok this is the balance shaft sprocket thingy (i did a balance shaft elimination)

Way #1

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Way #2

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[romeen]

Crank Sprocket: Pic #2 is the correct way. The dowel pin should be pointing out away from the block. It's hard to tell but it looks as if the dowel pin is sitting flush with the sprocket instead of sticking out just a bit. You need that to properly align the crank pulley.


Trigger Plate/Spacer: Pic #1 is the correct way. You can the marks from where it sits up against the balance shaft belt sprocket on the backside of the plate in pic #2.


Balance Shaft Belt Sprocket: Pic #1 is correct.


FWIW, since you have eliminated the balance shafts you really don't need the BS belt tensioner pulley. But I guess it's no big deal to leave it there either.

 

[romeen]

Also, you can search for "walking timing belt" for more info on the issue you're having. I would provide you with some links but the forum is working very slow right now.

 

[bluegs03]

thank you for the reply im trying to eliminate stupid mistakes that i may have made.

 

[Jeff99GS]

The easiest way to tell is to LOOK at the markings on the plates and match them up to the sprocket. See how there is dust marks on the plates? Little circles, that match the sprocket holes. As for the sprocket, you can tell cause there is a Recess for the washer to sit in for the crank bolt. Plus that dowel pin. Which by the way should be sticking OUT about 6mm. Looks like someone pushed your dowel in flush....or maybe you bolted the sprocket on backwards and it got pushed in??

 

[bluegs03]

well i fixed the problem, it turns out the tensioner arm had a massive wear spot where the tensioner had dug into it over the years allowing it to be deflected and the pulley to be off center. This caused the timing belt to walk toward the engine and wear it a bit. Thank you all for your help!

 

[steve]

well i fixed the problem, it turns out the tensioner arm had a massive wear spot where the tensioner had dug into it over the years allowing it to be deflected and the pulley to be off center. This caused the timing belt to walk toward the engine and wear it a bit. Thank you all for your help!

They really should grease the motor mount pivot and tensioner arm at every 60k or make replacing it part of the standard 120k service. That about what I got from mine before it wore out and caused the timing belt to walk. Once it wears the tensioner pulley doesn't apply pressure evenly across the belt.

 

[DSMunknown]

Just got off the phone with DSMGraveyard. They said the 6-bolt and 7-bolt tensioner arms are different. Below is the only part number I could find with a quick search. It's not offered on JNZ's site, but you can probably find it on CAPS.


MD130032 - from EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Timing Belt Tensioner Arm: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99


In the above link it states it will work on any model. Is this part number universal for all?


EDIT: I found another part number in this thread. MN119896 for the 7-bolt.

 

[steve]

CAPS 35 update says:

Tensioner arm
1G MD130032
2G MN119896

To replace the worn pivot post you have to buy the engine mount which includes the arm and idler pulley.
1G MD195094 There used to be two different parts 1G 6 bolt and 1G 7 bolt. The old MD135827 replaced by the later part.
2G MD189172

 

[romeen]

Anthony, although Steve answered your question this post gives a good visual of the differences between the different tensioner arms and why they can't be used interchangeably.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151312679-post1.html

 

[Black94DSM]

CAPS 35 update says:

Tensioner arm
1G MD130032
2G MN119896

To replace the worn pivot post you have to buy the engine mount which includes the arm and idler pulley.
1G MD195094 There used to be two different parts 1G 6 bolt and 1G 7 bolt. The old MD135827 replaced by the later part.
2G MD189172

Steve could you answer this for me.

I have the engine mount (engine side) from my 1g 7 bolt and now I have a 1g 6 bolt going into my 94 car. Can I use that mount on my new 6 bolt block.

According to you and CAPS I should be able to right ? I think that's how I'm reading it. Sorry I'm new to CAPS and it looks like what you said, they replaced the old mount MD135827 with the newer mount MD195094 (what my 1g 7bolt came with).

Hopefully you can help me out here. Thanks!

 

[steve]

Steve could you answer this for me.

I can't provide any more information than I have which implies that the mounts are functionally the same.

 

[Black94DSM]

I can't provide any more information than I have which implies that the mounts are functionally the same.

That's a good answer. That means that I shouldn't need to get another engine side bracket!

Thanks Steve!