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Oil Flush? [Merged 9-7] engine Gunk flushing treatment

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DeathBeast

20+ Year Contributor
177
0
Mar 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
Is there such a product? Is there a way to flush out the system without buying a whole bunch of oil?

Here is why:
I had an extra box of Mobil 1 that I bought for the Talon, and I tuned up the girlfriends Jeep. Now the oil presure on her jeep is staying low, and the jeep is running like crap!

-Can mixing synthetic w/ regular oil do this?
-How would I go about flushing the system?

Thanx,
DeathBeast
 
you can use a thin oil (straight 5 weight or so) for flushing a motor (<5 mins) or they make specific oil flushes you can buy at oreillys and other places. valvoline and jiffy lube can also do this for ya for a pretty penny
 
Well those arent real oil flushes... those just basically clean anytype of garnish or buildup out of the motor in general. The best thing to do deathbeast would be to use a real thin wieght oil and run it for about a full day or so of driving and then change it right after that.
 
Originally posted by candela
Well those arent real oil flushes... those just basically clean anytype of garnish or buildup out of the motor in general.
I'm confused now-- isn't that what a flush is supposed to do? What does running the thin oil do? I'm not doubting you, especially knowing your background-- just curious.
 
Are you talking about a "powerflush" maybe? Where they use a special machine to backflush the gunk out of the engine through the oil filter location? Those aren't cheap...$100 or so depending on where you go. I don't see why you'd need one of these, though, unless you're concerned that there's lots of buildup in the engine.
 
yeah the only time I've done this is when I bought my first car, an '87 mustang with 168,xxx on the odometer (for $600). when I changed the oil, it looked like it had been in there for several years (nastiest oil i've ever seen). I felt it was worth it to keep it running (and it did for 2 years till i sold it to some other high school kid for $750 with 189,xxx on the odo. he riced it and beat on it [lived in the next neighborhood over] and I saw him driving something else about 2 months later =). )
 
Im switching from conventional oil to synthetic this weekend. Ive got over 2500 miles on the motor and I wanna thouroughly flush this bastard out. I hear theres some stuff at Schucks/Napa thats an actual rngine flush, and I heard to use a certain oil. What do I want? Thanks...
 
I heard to fill it with 0 weight oil and let it idle for a while, but thats just what i heard. I never did it.
 
dont quote me on this, but I read in a hot rod magazine that synthetic and conventional motor oil mixes without a problem, I didnt flush my engine when I switched to synthetic, and have had no problems...thats me though, but honestly I wouldnt worry about it....
 
Oil flushing became redundant when detergents were added to motor oil formulations. Nothing will flush the crude out as well as the synthetic, and the synthetic is compatible with it- with a filter change, you may have a quarter-pint still lurking in the engine passages and bearings.

If you use a flush, how do you flush out the flush?

I'd rather just go oil-to-oil. If you can't stop worrying about it, swap out the first batch of synthetic early.... or are you already in the 3000-mile throw-out-the-good-oil group?

Your mileage will probably vary. I know mine does.
 
ive heard good results w/ amsoil engine flush, but i havent used it personally. IMO just switching to a good synthetic is good enough to clean up an engine. Good oils have all the additives you need to freshen up a motor after a few changes.

I switched to Amsoil series 2000 (0w-30) before i became a dealer, and my oil pressure went up (forgot how much) and my spoolup was a bit better. Occasionally i can even get better gas mileage, but i mash the gas a lot so it varies.

I would reccommend the same oil I used about but Id like to mention that royal purple is really good stuff too. Not the synthetic blend RP but the full syn.

Hope this helps.
 
i might not fully understand your question but isn't it normal for oil to be black it just means the crap is now in your oil so you can change it. I've been using wix/carquest filters and they've kept my oil pretty clean so if the black oil is bothering you maybe you should try a differnt filter.
as for motor flush instead of buying a "motor flush" why not just use some atf put it in a couple days before your oil change and then change your oil make sure you do it cause it really does loosen up alot of crap.
 
ok first off Mobil 1 is not synthtic.. use a flushing oil i think any 0w20 will work run at something like 2,000rpm for 15-20min and then drain it put in a new oil filter (I use Fram) and some goof FULL synthetic oil.. i just put some Quaker State Full syn in mine.. although i know im probly gona get flamed for saying Quaker State on here LOL but come on there realy a good oil.. sure not that Royle stuff but good oil none the less.. anyway make sure the oil is a SG or SJ rated oil too.. (for turbo powered gas engines) I have a hard time finding SG.. SJ is pretty common though..
 
ripper i appreciate your reply but i am looking at the bottles of mobil 1 that i just bought and it says "fully synthetic motor oil" its 10w-30 and ive been using it for my last 3 oil changes. I use an oem 3kgt vr4 oil filter because it stops my lifter tick. I've read here a while ago that you are supposed to use oem filters because they have something in them that is better for turbo cars or something of the like (can anyone help me out w/this one?). I mean come on dude it's the official oil of nascar. LOL. I just want to know how to clean the insides cuz when the oil comes out black every time my sh^t's gotta be filthy. Plus I don't want black crappy oil running through my new t28:barf:
 
If you have a high mileage engine (Like over 125K) I wouldn't suggest flushing it. You will have a good chance at creating some leaks.

However, I use oil flush all the time in my cars. Not every oil change though. What I use is the cheap "gunk" motor flush that comes in the quart cans. Dump 1-2 quarts in, hold the car at like 1500rpm to bring the oil pressure up for about 5 minutes, drain, fill up with crap dino oil run for 3-5 minutes to remove any left over "flush", drain, pop on a new filter (I use Pep-Boys house brand as it's nothing more than a repackaged Purolator), fill up with your favorite synthetic and drive. I would do this probably every other oil change.

I put 50K of HARD miles on my SE-R and when the motor came apart it was clean as it came out of the factory and the oil between changes was nice and clean.

I've also heard reports that once you run Royal Purple a couple times it comes out nice and clean due to all the detergents. Havn't tried it myself.
 
Jay thanks for the info. I only have 45,000 miles on my car so I am shure that a flush wouldn't hurt. I think I will try the royal purple for my next oil change, but if mobil 1 and other synthetics are supposed to come out black then ok, I just wanted to make shure:thumb:
 
Every 3k I change the oil and it's black. I've torn the oil pan off and there's no sludge anywhere, same for the head when I pulled the VC off. I retired the 14b at 110k and it was still working fine.
I would stay away from using any motor flush, just keep changing your oil on schedule.

Steve
 
hmm about Quaker State being waxy what do you mean? I always thought they were a real good oil.. and after just spending $24+ on it and going though replaceing it and the filter I do NOT want to have to turn around and drain and flush to a new oil... it said on the bottle it was for turbo powered engines
 
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