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High/low and otherwise scary oil pressure [Merged 3-9]

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Bluefire16

15+ Year Contributor
1,500
21
Mar 30, 2007
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Ok so ive read a number of different threads but have not come up with much. I have checked my connection to my pressure regulator and the switch. I have connected it and disconnected it, talked to 3 different people. One is currently attending a mechanic school, the other works at a quick lube, and lastly another is a respected dsm member with 3 different dsm's with 450whp each. I have spoken to all of them and have not come up with much, here are the pics. THe first one, oil pressure when car is warm and just sitting and idling. THe second is on the highway going 70mph. It drops soon as im off the gas. I understand my oil pressure should not be this high, any reasons why?
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[URL=http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oilvq3.jpg]
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hmm...thats a pretty good oil too....

then try 5w-30

also, i personally use valvoline fully synthetic 10W-30....
 
Ive used 5w30 and 10w30 synpower in my laser and have had no problems with oil pressure. Synpower (valvoline's full synthetic) is the best because it offers 4x better wear protection than mobil 1. Are you running stock size filter? I've heard of people switching to 1g filters and that might drop ## pressure a little but not that much.
 
Yea, im really tight for cash right now and thats my only problem so i cannot afford an oil pressure gauge ( i no like 50 bucks right? but im in college and play hockey and have loans to pay off) But i plan on getting a gauge soon and seeing what that has to read. And ill do a compression test with my buddy when he has a day off..being meaning to anyways. But any other ideas?

So ive had no luck coming up with anything else, anyone?
 
No its always been high since i bought the car (didnt no it at the time) then i started learning about the dsm's more and more and realized mine was higher than normal. Im getting a gauge ordered monday if this kid pays me for my turbo so then i should be ok and will be able to see what the psi is.
 
I'd start by removing and cleaning up the sender. And if that makes no difference the next step would be to find out if you really do have high oil pressure and use an aftermarket gauge. I understand you're broke, and hockey is an excellent game, but that is what you need to do to get to the bottom of it.

That is unless you have your balance shafts removed, in that case its a safe bet that you really do have high oil pressure... but you'd still want a gauge before you do anything about it.
 
I've searched but I havent really found what could be wrong. I have a 6 bolt in my 2G but machined to accept 7bolt oil filter housing, etc... I didnt have an issue with oil pressure until recently. At idle and start up my oil pressure is at 0-5 pounds(Autometer Guage). When I start driving, it begins to climb but does not go above 40 pounds. at 3k is when pressure goes up and stays at 40 until redline. I have BSE. From searching I think it could be one of the following things:

1.Really big oil leak

2. The oil pressure relief valve could be sticking. Could this be replaced just by replacing the spring?

3. Bad oil pump

Any idea guys would be greatly appreciated.

Also I'm currently running 20W-50 to see if it would raise my oil pressure and it did not.

Forgot to mention that its a freshly rebuilt motor, has about 3000 miles.

I'll check the spring tomorrow. it has oil, just did an oil change.

oil pressure reading is from the stock location. I replaced the stock one with the autometer one.
 
Well, cheking the oil reliefe valve is simple. YOu MAY have to pull the balancer pulley, but either way just pull the bolt and spring out of it then take a 1/4 inch extension and the forse of your hand (palm) and see if you can "un-stick it" if you feel it release and go the rest of the way in, then try and get it out to clean the bore it rides in and clean the piston it's self and check for burrs.

Where are you taking your oil pressure reading from? I would imagine the OFH but i have to ask to be sure.

!.) really big oil leak = would be easy to diagnose...get under the car tomorrow and see..also, it may sound dumb, but make sure your oil is full!

2.)see the first paragraph

3.)you can rebuild the pump fairly cheap, you don't have to buy a new front cover, just get the gears amd replace them, if you can do a timing belt you can re-build the oil pump, so if other things don't solve it...rebuild it!

4.)running 20-50 is praised by some, but my machinist said if he was going to "cover my motor" (back up the build even though i assembled it) that i would have to run 5-30 because of the aluminum head on cast iron block ( i have no idea why that makes a diference so sorry)

But, FFWD inists that you run 20-50 in every motor they sell and won't warranty your engine unless you have been running only 20-50 ( this was told to me by Darren at FFWD )

I have actually read in some places (and again from darren) that thicker oil will lower pressure ( but i don't understand how that could be...then again i'm no fluid-dynamics major either)

Check the oil level and relief valve first, it's a couple easy places to start
 
Forgot to mention that its a freshly rebuilt motor, has about 3000 miles.

I'll check the spring tomorrow. it has oil, just did an oil change.

Was your car built on the "loose" side meaning the bearing clearances are more than ussually because you want to use a heavier weight oil?
 
If the shop recommends 20w 50 then I can pretty much garauntee it was.

Just food for thought.

When I built my motor I was using 15w 40 from rotella(shell) the builder said it has something to do with the detergents and stuff in the oil or whatever I just followed as instructed . Then I switched over. But For low oil press, you ever check into your lifters making sure their in order(meaning bled down ect), or even worse, I this happend to me on the second motor I had done, forget to prime the motor? You have your balance shaft removed? I know it wouldn't drop it that low but just for a beter idea on whats going on.
 
Balance Shafts are removed, Engine was primed before start up. It had fine oil pressure for 3000 miles. When I take the oil cap off, i see oil on the cams and its splashing so i know it has some kind of pressure.
 
When I take the oil cap off, oil is in the head and it does slush around. From what i heard, there needs to be at least 17 PSI in order for oil to get to the valve train.

So if this is true, could i have an internal oil leak in my oil filter housing right by my oil pressure sender?
 
I've searched but I havent really found what could be wrong. I have a 6 bolt in my 2G but machined to accept 7bolt oil filter housing, etc... I didnt have an issue with oil pressure until recently. At idle and start up my oil pressure is at 0-5 pounds(Autometer Guage). When I start driving, it begins to climb but does not go above 40 pounds. at 3k is when pressure goes up and stays at 40 until redline. I have BSE. From searching I think it could be one of the following things:

1.Really big oil leak

2. The oil pressure relief valve could be sticking. Could this be replaced just by replacing the spring?

3. Bad oil pump

Any idea guys would be greatly appreciated.

Also I'm currently running 20W-50 to see if it would raise my oil pressure and it did not.

Forgot to mention that its a freshly rebuilt motor, has about 3000 miles.

I'll check the spring tomorrow. it has oil, just did an oil change.

oil pressure reading is from the stock location. I replaced the stock one with the autometer one.


If you didn't install an oil feed line off the housing with your aftermarket gauge, that's your problem. This is if you bought an electrical one, not mechanical, which most do so I'm assuming.

If the pressure sending unit from Autometer is installed on the housing, then engine vibration will make it go bad every time. It'll last a few months maybe, but then goes to shit. (Read the directions to your aftermarket gauge it'll tell you this)

You have to get a new pressure sending unit, and the SS Oil feed line, run it off the housing and mount it to the firewall somewhere.

Your motor is fine, your gauge is broken. Especially if you still see oil up on the lifters.
 
^^^^^ The gauge is brand new. It is an electrical one and it is mounted straight to the housing.

I did read about mounting it on the firewall, but this one is temporary until i get a mechanical one.

And yes, there definetly is oil in the lifters.
 
^^^^^ The gauge is brand new. It is an electrical one and it is mounted straight to the housing.

I did read about mounting it on the firewall, but this one is temporary until i get a mechanical one.

And yes, there definetly is oil in the lifters.

Well there you go man, you just answered you own question.
Get a new sending unit, and mount it on the firewall.

Electrical ones are fine, you just need to mount it correctly. Engine vibration will knock it out everytime, mostly at idle.
 
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