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1G How do i test my 2g 4 wire TPS?

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v8killer

20+ Year Contributor
371
5
Oct 4, 2002
harlan, Kentucky
ok guys i know how to check the older 3 wire but i don't know what to do about the the 4 wire one. does anyone have a tutorial on how to check it ! i did check it like the 3 wire and it tested bad but i want to make sure before i buy one !
 
Unplug the TPS and measure the sensor itself with an ohmmeter. Should read between 3.5k-6.5k ohms between pin 1 (where the green/yellow wire connects) and pin 4 (black wire connects) - measure the sensor pins, not the wires.

Then between pin 2 (brown/red) and pin 4 (black), and also between pin 2 (brown/red) and pin 1 (green/yellow) - it should change smoothly as the throttle valve is opened/closed (one way increases resistance, the other decreases - you really need an analog meter [one with a needle] to check for smoothness). If this is not smooth (it jumps somewhere), the TPS is faulty and needs replacement.

Then between pin 4 (black) and pin 3 (yellow/red) it should be infinite with throttle open, and under 150 ohms when fully closed (if not under 150 when fully closed it also may be due to mis-adjustment). The manual says 0 ohms but you'll rarely get this in the real world.

Adjusting when the IPS opens (Idle Position Switch - which is pins 3 and 4) is critical (or can lead to high idle or idle surge) and is described per Mitsu manual here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/255885-bad-tps-again.html#post151940336.
 
Last edited:
Since I bought the car 3 years ago I'm experiencing randomly weak pulls when going from partial throttle to WOT, mainly in first and second gears. Maybe it happens in other gears, I just don't notice then. One particular thing is that as soon as I release the throtlle and go WOT again, performance becomes normal, just like that.

After performing / checking / replacing boost leak tests, BOV, injectors, injector seals, TB gaskets, plugs, wires, coils, power transistor, fuel filter, chamber compression test, EGR solenoid test, cleaned and tested EGR valve, wiped out grease from EGR solenoid contacts :confused:, now I'm working on a bad TPS hypothesis.

Never ever got a CEL. I checked with those cheap OBD2 bluetooth scanner, no codes at all.

I have a digital multitester, but got borrowed an analogic one for this.
So here are the results:
pin 1 and pin 4 = 4.19kohms
pin 3 and pin 4 = 90 ohms when throttle plate closed and infinite as soon as a touch the throttle. Pretty sensitive. I think that even a mounth blow would make reading change.
pin 2 and pin 4 = 0,9kohms when trottle plate closed; 4.16kohms when WOT. Moving throttle from closed position to wide open, I could notice on the analogic ohmmeter the resistance going smoothly up, then smoothly down right on the beginning, then proportionally all the way up.
pin 1 and pin 2 = resistance goes down and up smoothly and proportionally the throttle movement.

Also, I notice some considerable axial play on the throttle shaft. No boost leaks there though.

I will post a video of the ohmmeter reading to show you how does it perform.
If that's it, if my TPS is bad or my throttle shaft has too much play and needs a rebuild, stays for the record.

Thanks luv2rallye.
 
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