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2.6 Stroker??

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c_riggan

10+ Year Contributor
61
0
Jul 24, 2008
Surprise, Arizona
Honestly I wouldn't do it because you'll have to make your power in low RPMs... a 2.6L stroker would not be good for revving above 7000 RPM (IMO)
 
Those kits are pretty expensive (in DSM money). Not trying to be an a-hole, but why would you spend that kind of money on a stroker motor? Do they (strokers) make that much more power then a comparably built 2.0L ?
 
Honestly I wouldn't do it because you'll have to make your power in low RPMs... a 2.6L stroker would not be good for revving above 7000 RPM (IMO)

You flow about 10% more airflow at the 2.4 max safe revlimit than the 2.0l mas safe revlimit given the same brand rods/pistons/rodbolts. 10% more flow on a 600whp motor is about 70whp more! A 2.6l motor has about 8% more airflow at the same revlimit as the 2.4. So 18% more flow is easily over 100hp more if you started with a 2.0L 600whp build. You'd likely need a turbo upgrade and cam upgrade from the 2.0L 600whp build to make the best of it. It puts your motor in a whole other relm.
 
I have a 4g63/4g64 hybrid and the extra torque is great. My 95 crank walked on me so I went this route. Got the bottom from a 94 dohc gallant and did pistons and rods. Great upgrade if you are worried about the crankwalk. My check engine light didn't even come on after the process :thumb:
 
That is what I was thinking, longer stroke = quicker spool and more torque, because I will never (except on the track) get that thing above 6500-7000 anyways (speed limits are too low here) and it would spool a larger turbo quicker than a 2.0, meaning streetablity is better...

Thanks for the input. It is expensive, but I always think you get what you put into it (not always, but its a general rule).

Just trying to narrow down what exactly I want to do, cause I dont want to get too much for my car until I have a plan of what's to be done.
 
WHOA ...OMG... WHOA if your thinking going to a stroker or a 2.6L in no way should it be a street car.

Note... any stroker and an engine with forged internal on higher compression mean shortened life if driven a lot.

And what are your intended power on a FWD car?
 
WHOA ...OMG... WHOA if your thinking going to a stroker or a 2.6L in no way should it be a street car.

Note... any stroker and an engine with forged internal on higher compression mean shortened life if driven a lot.

And what are your intended power on a FWD car?

Yes, please elaborate on why forged or stroked motor should not be a daily......
 
Yes, please elaborate on why forged or stroked motor should not be a daily......

The whole 2.6L has been around for a while. Its just expensive and people can run 9s for less than the same price with the 2.0L. But a 2.6L stroked 4G64 is quite a bit, the cylinder walls would be thin.
 
Yes, please elaborate on why forged or stroked motor should not be a daily......

I agree with DSMTraid, you can easy get a DSM in the sub-9s with a non-stroker engine for considerable less money.

As for why forged or stroker engine shouldn't be a DD, it runs on higher compression which is severe on the block and the head. But that's my .02 cents. I'm not willing to throw away my $6k+ engine for a simple supermarket run.

Personally I think you are in over your head thinking about a stroked up 2.6l as a DD. Think about it, you're busting away $3300 on the stroker kit alone, probably another $2000 having a mechanic do the ported, blueprinted and balancing the block, plus another $5000+ for valvetrain, valves, cams, clutch, transmission, fuel system, etc... You're spending about $10k+ on a race engine as a DD!
 
The point of a stroker is to have more streetable power. It's cheaper to get a 2.0L in the 9s but what does that have to do with a street motor?

The problem with high compression is in the mind of the tuner. MORE timing advance is does not make more power. PROPER timing curve does. A higher compression motor burns the air/fuel charge faster. Because of that, a higher compression motor needs less timing advance to make more power. Those that retard timing to make up for the higher compression are not losing power. They are finding MBT (mean best timing: which gives the most power), AND benenfiting from the higher thermal efficiency of high compression.

Yea, if you try to run the stock 1g timing curve on the street with high compression you will run into reliability issues. But if you you tuned for best power, which means retarding timing, then you would not.
 
I agree with DSMTraid, you can easy get a DSM in the sub-9s with a non-stroker engine for considerable less money.

As for why forged or stroker engine shouldn't be a DD, it runs on higher compression which is severe on the block and the head. But that's my .02 cents. I'm not willing to throw away my $6k+ engine for a simple supermarket run.

Personally I think you are in over your head thinking about a stroked up 2.6l as a DD. Think about it, you're busting away $3300 on the stroker kit alone, probably another $2000 having a mechanic do the ported, blueprinted and balancing the block, plus another $5000+ for valvetrain, valves, cams, clutch, transmission, fuel system, etc... You're spending about $10k+ on a race engine as a DD!

It's based on what people want regardless of cost if someone wanted that option they'd do it it's just the matter of saving more money, but your preaching isn't about personal funding matters let's see your empirical data on why it shouldn't be a DD.
 
The whole 2.6L has been around for a while. Its just expensive and people can run 9s for less than the same price with the 2.0L. But a 2.6L stroked 4G64 is quite a bit, the cylinder walls would be thin.

How are the cylinder wall any thinner than a normal 4g64? You're stroking the motor an extra .2L, not boring it out that much. Swapping a crankshaft doesn't involve boring the cylinders.
 
It's based on what people want regardless of cost if someone wanted that option they'd do it it's just the matter of saving more money, but your preaching isn't about personal funding matters let's see your empirical data on why it shouldn't be a DD.


A race engine is not a DD engine, you'll have to take care of it like a baby and problem will happen. If you do build your engine you'll definitely considerate it not being a DD and beating down on it. You'll have a much clearer prospective of this when you do stroker or forged internals.

However, it's just my opinion, you don't have to take it in consideration if you don't want to. If someone had that much money to spend then I would presume buying another car wouldn't be a problem.
 
Just because the stroke is altered, rods and piston dimensions have changed do not make it a race only engine.

You're really over looking this too much.
 
I personally think going stroker is a definite 'race' material boring the block out. What's more serious that boring and altered the crank, rods and pistons? That's like modifying the base of the whole block from a 2l to a 2.3l, 2.4l or a 2.6l.
 
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