So my head is cracked! Pics included.

[mmmmbst]

So i finally found my boost leak. I tested it 2 days ago and found a leak, but figured it was the gasket. I ordered a new Magnus gasket, and when I pulled the manifold off, this is what I found. The questions are: Can this be welded? What do you think caused this? Has this happened to anyone else? Also, where do you think that oil above the injectors is coming from?

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010024.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010024.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[Detective Coating]

Looks like it was coming out of your intake manifold gasket with all of the oil in the runners. If it was out of the valve cover gasket you would see it along the gasket and going down but it's not. Sorry for the bad luck.

 

[No_Skillz]

On the other hand, I see three clear oil stains above the areas that are dirty from oil. Maybe you wiped most of it off? I suggest a new valve cover gasket. Oil is unlikely to come out of the runners. Also, the mating surface is mostly clean, so I don't think that's the source of your oil.

The head is not something that is easily repaired by welding. It's aluminum, which makes it difficult to work with, and too much heat will warp it.

 

[interex]

I guess I just don't see the crack, but you could have it welded.

 

[pj91gsx]

How much boost? The oil is normal to an extent. The EGR valve lets exhaust in the intake, and oil will get in the intake from the turbo or the valve cover reliefs. that is why there are oil catch cans. If the turbo is throwing in oil then it is likely the turbo needs a new seal.

 

[mmmmbst]

Ya i didnt think i could weld it. The valve cover gasket is new and not leaking. The car was running extremely rich for a while. And for boost? A solid 22psi on hi and 18 Daily Driving. Ive has this problem (boost) since about 300 miles after i broke in the motor. Does anyone think it could be from the shop torquing the head down too much? Im actually not really mad. Im just glad I found the source of the boosting problem. And ill look into the turbo seals.

 

[pj91gsx]

It wouldn't break there from torquing. Its hard to see the crack. If you cleaned it we could see it better. You maybe able to use rtv gasket to seal it depending if the gasket will hold it on the crack.

 

[mmmmbst]

Heres another picture closer up.

<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/?action=view&current=P1010034.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q238/mmmmbst/P1010034.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[No_Skillz]

Doesn't look like it went all the way through. You could try some RTV.

 

[pj91gsx]

If the gasket isnt covering that that isnt your problem. I would put the gasket on there with rtv let it dry and blt.

 

[mmmmbst]

Thats what i was thinking. I matched up the old gasket and saw that it didnt even touch this crack. I figured maybe it warped a little bit and the manifold wasnt seating right in that spot and thats where my boost leak was. But, the old gasket was poop and really thin. I just bought a Magnus high temp gasket and that thing is like between 1/8-1/4" thick. I think ill try putting some high temp RTV on the manifold side of the gasket and pray it seats and holds boost. Ill post back up tomorrow with some updates. Thanks for the help guys, and anyone else that wants to put their .02 in is welcome.

 

[pboglio]

Geez, thats not a crack its a casting defect. I have the same split on my cylinder head in the same spot. If it doesn't go thru the runner or water jacket I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[mmmmbst]

Geez, thats not a crack its a casting defect. I have the same split on my cylinder head in the same spot. If it doesn't go thru the runner or water jacket I wouldn't worry about it.

Really? That's odd haha. Well all the bolts were in place, the gasket was in good condition, and the manifold is perfect. I wonder where the boost leak was coming from then. It was coming from exactly that spot. when i did the test it was blowing out pretty hard on my fingers in that spot.

 

[pboglio]

I guarantee you a NEW stock 2g intake manifold gasket will NOT leak unless the head or intake manifold is warped. Those things are viton coated with an embossed lip. That Magnus gasket I have no idea about but if your talking about a Magnus phenolic spacer, then I'd be using (2x) stock 2g intake manifold gaskets to seal it, one for each side. Do NOT use RTV, it'll just extrude into the intake port. If you have to you could use a thin layer of Hylomar which will self seal, yet allow you to repeatedly remove the intake manifold gaskets without destroying them.

 

[tenn-gsx]

There is definately a crack on the left side of the right intake port. Just above the flat part of the casting for the mani bolt.

 

[DSM1G90]

I'd do some JB weld in that crack instead of RTV.

 

[SnowBird]

I agree that is not a crack, if it were real it would be more of a gouge, since its missing material. Cause I was thinking how the hell did he see that during a BLT being under the manifold. Be glad its ok, I dont know how something like that would develop in the first place.

 

[tenn-gsx]

This is a crack!

 

[mmmmbst]

I agree that is not a crack, if it were real it would be more of a gouge, since its missing material. Cause I was thinking how the hell did he see that during a BLT being under the manifold. Be glad its ok, I dont know how something like that would develop in the first place.

IMO it is a crack. when i put my fingers on it, its sharp. What you cant see in the closeup pic is that after the obvious crack stops, there is a hairline crack that goes to the end of that little cubby hole (haha whatever its called). As for seeing the crack during the test, I did not. I heard it coming out pretty loud and felt around there with my hands and felt the air coming out. SO EVERYONE AGREES THIS COULD BE FIXED? If RTV, would you use the copper, aluminum (obviousious choice IMO) or the blue?

Ya that Magnus gasket is a spacer (it said gasket on slowboys website) but i called them and they said its strong as hell but yet soft enough to make a great seal.

 

[mmmmbst]

This is a crack!

The car is at my buddies house right now. Ill try to get over there with a better camera. But, i dont thing thats a crack. I think that just the old gasket line where it sealed and the darker stuff on the left is the oil/dirt that was around the injectors.

 

[tenn-gsx]

The line next to the round hole wouldnt cause a boost leak even if it is a crack. The part Im callin a crack is the horizontal line that goes all the way across the mating face.

 

[DSMified92]

if you really wanted to git it fixed it can be welded by a tig and no if they know what they are doing cause i tigged up a nissan head that blew a chunk out between cylinder 2 and 3 so if you can find someone down there with a tig and that knows what there doing then you can git it fixed.

 

[woooop]

Every 2g head that i have seen lookse like that its not a crack! But what do i know

 

[turboglenn]

IF that is a crack ( i can't see it or make it out) Then have it TIG welded and by some one who regularly does cylinder heads. Then have the machine shop resurface the gasket area, just make sure that the machinist is competent as well and knows what he's doing.. You might want to take him the intake mani as well so that he can tell what's a safe amount to take off while still having all the bolts, brackets, injectors and rail line up after the work is done. I've fixed cracks taht i can see on similar areas of heads and never had an issue. But welding a head (especially an aluminum one) can be very tricky because after thousands of heat cycles and the aluminum being cast, carbon and all sorts of impurities have made their way deep into the material and there's a certain PITA process to get it all boiled to the top, cleaned off and then be able to start the final weld..

Good luck, but honestly, i would put a new gasket on and re-check for leaks with the head and mani on a bench so you can better see and find the exact leak before spending your hard earned money on a repair that might not even be needed..and believe me, even if it's not there when times are hard some shisety welders will throw somw filler on it and fix something that didn't even need it to make a buck

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I would say it's a crack. Its hard to see, but it looks like a horizontal crack. You may be able to get it tigged, but by the time you have the head off, I would think you would be better off with a used head from a junkyard. Who knows the full extent of the damage, or if it will continue to crack internally.

Make sure you have that support bracket under your manifold attached properly when you reassemble it.